“Click” to “Click Click”

[IDIDually]

So I replaced my Starter, battery cables, fended solenoid Cleaned up all the ground connections. Put everything back the way I started (new). Truck fired up started awesome. Sounded Great. After a few mins of warming up at idle. (Truck sat for 2 months getting parts and cash to complete). Started to hear a high Pitch grinding sound coming from the starter then not long after smoke. I immediately shut the truck down, investigated, cannot find the problem this is my first time changing out a starter, don’t know if I did something wrong. Don’t know where to troubleshoot. Help would be greatly appreciate. (stumped).

 

[captain720]

Is it possible you need a starter spacer? Sounds like the starter is not disengaging from the ring gear and getting spun super fast.

 

[pabair]

I have an ‘89 7.3 IDI that burned up a new starter when the ignition start rod running from ignition down dash to start switch stuck on. You might check if your ignition start switch is staying on.
Good luck!

 

[Big Bart]

As pabair mentions, common issue with these trucks being 30 years old. Worn out ignition switches (bottom of steering column.) or the ignition lock and rod in the column sticking.

So the starter stays on, truck is loud so you do not hear it, and the starter becomes a generator and starts to get hot and starts burning up the electrical to and from it.

I would pull the starter and have it tested. (If burned up or visibly problematic warranty it out for a new one.) I would go ahead and replace the ignition switch. (Likely time to anyhow.) And look closely at your battery cables to the block and starter to see if damaged.

Maybe your starter was bad and did not retract. Or the solenoid on the starter did not release and shut off. Maybe the solenoid on the fender well got stuck on. But the above ignition switch issue is very common.

 

[IDIDually]

I replaced the, fender solenoid again, replace the ignition switch, replace the ignition cylinder today I’m going to look into the ignition lock and rod, then pull the starter off and have it checked, lastly inspect the new battery cables see if that helps.
I have never heard of this ignition locked and rod. Do you have a picture that would be great so I know what I’m looking for if not I’ll try to find it on the Internet. Thank y’all all for your help. Hopefully she’ll be runnin today miss Drive it.

 

[Big Bart]

First off I have not replaced a ignition switch to lock cylinder rod so take this with a grain of salt.

However members say working on the steering column outside of the lock cylinder and ignition switch (Easy to remove.) is not trivial. IE - Replacing the rod or anything around it is fairly tricky. Most suggested after the fact the ignition switch or lock cylinder was very worn and there was play and it was hard to tell where the ignition switch was at.(Off, on, or start.)

As I understand there is the ability to adjust the ignition switch left or right to adjust it.(At least I have heard aftermarket ones do.). So set the switch so they key has to be turned a fair amount before it will move from on/run to start mode, but not so far the rod runs out of travel before it does,(Thus will not power the solenoid) and when you let off in the “start” position it returns the switch to “on/run”. If it does your rod is likely working.

You could test the small wire at the solenoid on the fender well that gets +12v when the key is in the start position and activates it. Unhook the small wire that gets +12v from the ignition switch. Set up a test light or voltage meter to see when it gets +12v. Do a truck off to start, start to key release to on. Do that cycle 15 times and watch after each release from start that power from the ignition switch is no longer going to the wire on the solenoid. No issue you shoukd be good to go.

Now for a month pay attention to the start cycle and listen for the starter to go off. (Or to hear something else that would suggest it stuck.) These trucks are loud and why many who have had this issue did not realize it. Other members admit to knowing they had a issue but forgot to remind a family member or friend who drove it to manually move the key back from start to on.

Lastly a lesson learned here monthly on this site. New and rebuilt parts often are bad out of the box sadly. Most members found the stuck starter issue without doing any work to the electrical system. But you did a lot of work but my point is you added a néw starter. (Likely a rebuild.) So it is possible your starter was defective and it simply stuck on due to a physical problem and did not retract. So it could of been related to a issue in the cab, or you got a defective starter.

If the voltage gauge in the truck works or if you have a aftermarket voltage guage in your truck, keep an eye on it after starting. My guess is when the starter is stuck,it iis generating over 14v.(Why it fries the battery cables, but perhaps it is ground out, not over charging. My truck only generatea about 13v till I come off idle, so a spike to 14-18v or a drop to 6v after starting would hint the starter might be stuck.

Let us know what you find and post some pics of the work.

 

[IDIDually]

@Big Bart you were RIGHT!! Napa sold me a remain starter for I assume a different year. They were “almost“ identical. Pulled the starter back off, took it back to Napa. They pulled another starter from the back “the right starter“ Only differences were the opening where the gear comes out to start. I mean you really had to look closely to see the very slight difference. But it made all the difference in the world. Truck starts like a dream now.
Which lead me to a new problem. Replaced the wore out ignition Cylinder. All went well but it will not release the key. Goes to all positions. Turn back where the key is suppose to come out And it’s just locked in there. Truck is a manual. So no auto shifter is causing it. Stumped on this too. Going to continue to look deeper. All of your info has helped tremendously!! Can’t thank you enough

 

[Big Bart]

Some thoughts on the lock and key. Again I have not replaced a lock cylinder in these trucks so more guessing than suggesting. Here is how I would approach.

1) As mentioned the ignition switch is supposed to be adjustable. Maybe it is to far right or left and is tugging on the rod and preventing the lock cylinder from going fully to the off and the release key position. Perhaps adjust the ignition switch first to test. Or remove it to see if this a rod thing or a lock cylinder thing. (Perhaps the lock cylinder is bad. Not likely but very plausible. IE when it rains it pours.) But you made multiple repairs so double check both.

2) Try to put some wd40 in the lock cylinder, jiggle and wiggle to see if the key will come out. Maybe the key is catching a pin, a little lube might do it.

3) I would go to Napa and look at a lock cylinder, what about it lets the key only release in the off position. Maybe your truck has another issue, some thing is worn or cracked so it does not release the key. But knowing how it works will help you figure it out.

4) Also jut check the rod by the ignition switch to make sure it is not hung up on a wire or something else. That it can move freely.

Let’s us know how it goes.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Hey, those old lock cylinders are a booger for sure. The pin that you have to push in is probably, ever so slightly holding it in there. I just keep pressure on the pin with a nail or punch and wiggle jiggle wiggle jiggle until it comes out. I just recently had to change a steering column in my 86 because the tilt was wonky and kinda holding the rod that runs down to the actual ignition switch and sometimes keeping the starter engaged. Had a small fire, but since everything in that area is made of metal only some wires got cooked.