Trailered home a 1989 F350 dump truck that looks great on the outside, but the 7.3 IDI is something else

Once I get the engine cleaned up, I'll pull a glow plug and determine what size thread it is. I'm planning to use Zep Purple degreaser. Am I correct in assuming there are no aluminum bits under the hood?

The alternator is aluminum.

Also the vacuum pump.
You'll need to put oil in it to do a compression test, because you'll be cranking the engine.

Thanks guys. I'll be sure to remove those items then before degreasing it. Also, the guy I brought it from kept saying the previous owner said it had a 6.9 in it. As I was removing front end pieces, I noticed what I through were cracks:



Upon closer examination, it looks like they cut out that top rail at some point in the past:



Quite a hack job. Why someone wouldn't just take a little extra time and remove the entire radiator support I don't get unless someone was in a rush.

I also noticed all the original glow plug wires are no longer being used, but all new ones were run. This was also a hack job.

So this is likely a 6.9 engine after all. Which I guess is the more desirable one from a longevity standpoint as the cylinder walls are thicker?

Is there an easy way to verify this is indeed a 6.9 engine before I start ordering parts and get it cleaned up?

crazydane said:

Thanks guys. I'll be sure to remove those items then before degreasing it. Also, the guy I brought it from kept saying the previous owner said it had a 6.9 in it. As I was removing front end pieces, I noticed what I through were cracks:

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Upon closer examination, it looks like they cut out that top rail at some point in the past:

You must be registered for see images attach

Quite a hack job. Why someone wouldn't just take a little extra time and remove the entire radiator support I don't get unless someone was in a rush.

I also noticed all the original glow plug wires are no longer being used, but all new ones were run. This was also a hack job.

So this is likely a 6.9 engine after all. Which I guess is the more desirable one from a longevity standpoint as the cylinder walls are thicker?

Is there an easy way to verify this is indeed a 6.9 engine before I start ordering parts and get it cleaned up?

Click to expand...

There is a block code on top of the block on the drivers side of the injection pump.

crazydane said:

removing front end pieces, I noticed what I through were cracks:

You must be registered for see images attach

Upon closer examination, it looks like they cut out that top rail at some point in the past:

You must be registered for see images attach

Quite a hack job. Why someone wouldn't just take a little extra time and remove the entire radiator support I don't get unless someone was in a rush.

Click to expand...

More likely it fatigue-cracked there, and was repaired by welding the cracks. My truck has a more hacked repair by a previous owner, with short pieces of angle iron welded over those areas.

Can you tell by looking at the head bolts? Or do they use the same head on the larger 7.3 bolts?

Those core supports breaking is very common.

James

Rdnck84_03 said:

Can you tell by looking at the head bolts? Or do they use the same head on the larger 7.3 bolts?

Those core supports breaking is very common.

James

Click to expand...

Yes I forgot about the head bolt size… 12 point, 1/2” for 7.3, 12 point, 7/16” for 6.9

That is the sole reason why I prefer the 7.3, bigger head bolts.

I still would like to stud my service truck’s engine, even though it probably doesn’t need it

KansasIDI said:

There is a block code on top of the block on the drivers side of the injection pump.

Click to expand...

Thanks! Looks like a 7.3 to me:



And 1/2" head bolts:



Hope to get the engine pulled this weekend.

crazydane said:

Upon closer examination, it looks like they cut out that top rail at some point in the past:

Click to expand...

Nope. Those are cracks.

KansasIDI said:

There is a block code on top of the block on the drivers side of the injection pump.

Click to expand...

He already found out but it always starts with 6.9 or 7.3 unless someone ground the original one off.

Made some good progress today. Get the core support pulled out. Turns out that in addition to the cracks along the top, the lower sides are both rotted away, as are both battery trays:



So I figured I'll replace those pieces with new ones from LMC truck.

With that out of the way, I removed the rest of the front end along with the fender skirts and then gave it a decent power wash:







I think I'm just going to pull the engine and transmission together.

Took a closer look at all the "custom" wiring the previous owner did:



They ran all new glow plug wires all the way back to the batteries. I think I found out why:



That's the connector carrying the high current to the glow plugs. Any thoughts on how the re-condition it (and its mate in the chassis wiring)? I'm pretty handy with soldering and a heat gun, so maybe just get new connectors?

Looks like the original mechanical fuel pump was bypassed:



Not only that, but they ran new fuel line back to the front tank and bypassed the original fuel line and selector in the cab between the front and rear fuel tanks. I'll see if I can get it back to stock. Where do you guys typically mount an electrical fuel pump? I'd also like to remove the mechanical pump and get a cover plate.

Also, I don't think this is stock:



Nor the other side:



I'm assuming there's a better way to terminate the fuel returns on the 2 front injectors?

That's it for today!

Another thing is that your timing adapter is on #2 cylinder instead of #1 like it should be. As for the return caps, you can probably buy some new dead end caps.

Jesus... Some people shouldn't be allowed to wire things.

IDIBRONCO said:

Another thing is that your timing adapter is on #2 cylinder instead of #1 like it should be. As for the return caps, you can probably buy some new dead end caps.

Click to expand...

Wasn't the stock adapter on #2 for vans? Maybe the lines came off something else at some point.
Either way measure the total length of #1 and #2 line, counting the adapter as part of the line. They should be equal length.