I am wanting to buy a timing meter for my 7.3 idi. I have a engine service manual for it and it says to use ''Tach-N-Time Diesel Timing Tester'' p/n ZTSE-4142. It says it cost $1010. That seems high but is that normal and is this the tool i want?
Diesel timing meter
- Thread starter lbzbuick
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Many members here have likes and dislikes when it comes to timing meters. My rental program is the Kent Moore J33300 and J33300-A meters. At this time three are aout all over the country in use. They are stupidly simple to operate. Just clean.. Connect.. Press one rocker switch and start the engine. Rev to 2000 rpm and read the panel. Shut down the engine and make an adjustment if needed.. But never attempt to adjust the timing with the engine running. That is dangerous because the pump makes so much twisting force trying to pump up to 5000 lbs of fuel to an injector. I also have three snapon mt 1480 meters but non of them are setup to time a diesel. Many here are using the ferrit timing meters too. They work very well. I watch Ebay daily for the meters. Most here will not time by the luminosity method but prefer the pulse type timing method. The lumi method requires the removal of a glow plug so the probe can see the detenation in the cylinder. The pulse is just clamp on probes and time it.. Much simpler to use. An adjustable timing lite can also be used to time these engines. Most all meters have this provision built into them.
Now about the BB code injectors. They have been proven many times over that they give better mileage and much better proformance. In my engine build I ran only the G codes because I wanted a "turbo" injector... Little did I know the G codes are an immissions type injector and they are not good for mileage or hp. So I got a set of Bb codes and the differance was like adding two more cylinders to my enfine. So many here have gone with what we as a collectiv have found to be a superiour injector. Most wont use a rebuilt injector. New or nothing but... Several are working on finding parts to rebuild them. Right now the rebuild parts cost more than a new injector so I wonder what a rebuilder is really doing.. Cleaning and bagging them....
Now about the BB code injectors. They have been proven many times over that they give better mileage and much better proformance. In my engine build I ran only the G codes because I wanted a "turbo" injector... Little did I know the G codes are an immissions type injector and they are not good for mileage or hp. So I got a set of Bb codes and the differance was like adding two more cylinders to my enfine. So many here have gone with what we as a collectiv have found to be a superiour injector. Most wont use a rebuilt injector. New or nothing but... Several are working on finding parts to rebuild them. Right now the rebuild parts cost more than a new injector so I wonder what a rebuilder is really doing.. Cleaning and bagging them....
If you want to buy a timing setup, you want to avoid getting the used tools off ebay becuase the lions share of them don't work or are missing very expensive parts. You'll end up buying a handful of the things before you get a complete one that works unless you just happen to get extremely lucky ( I learned my lesson on that one the hard way 
Just get a Ferret Pulse adapter here ( this place has consistantly had the lowest price on the things over the last few years ) and with that and a quality advance type timing light, you are all set to go. You just sand off a little paint and clamp it on to #1 or 4 injector line and then trun it up to 2000 rpms and set the advance on teh light where you want it and then check as you would a car. Only difference is do not try to adjust the pump with the engine running.
Just get a Ferret Pulse adapter here ( this place has consistantly had the lowest price on the things over the last few years ) and with that and a quality advance type timing light, you are all set to go. You just sand off a little paint and clamp it on to #1 or 4 injector line and then trun it up to 2000 rpms and set the advance on teh light where you want it and then check as you would a car. Only difference is do not try to adjust the pump with the engine running.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The above posting is very correct in every way. I have several meters "that don't work".....
Ebay items too but. A new Kent Moore J33300-A meter is a great meter to have. With the proper probes it will taime by pulse, luminosity or timing lite method. Kent Moore continues to seels probes and parts plus they offer a repair service. Now the expensive part. A luminosity probe costs around $375.00 and the much needed for any type of timing magnetic probe is around $275.00. I have found these new meters complete on ebay for around $180.00 too. You need to be able to actually see what you are buying too. Ask questions of the seller and surely ask here. I have given plenty of timely advice helping members avoid the issues of a not complete meter offered at a good price. Its better to ask before you buy something that has a limited selling base. Remember that nobody in any state is offering timing for our engines. At this time we have three known members that are offering timing by appointment. I offer three meters and they are all out at this time but continue asking questions here. If you can attend the ralley this year there is a member that always offers a timing clinic for free. He works tirelessly doing this too. I did about 10 trucks once out here on the west coast... It nearly killed me....
Ebay items too but. A new Kent Moore J33300-A meter is a great meter to have. With the proper probes it will taime by pulse, luminosity or timing lite method. Kent Moore continues to seels probes and parts plus they offer a repair service. Now the expensive part. A luminosity probe costs around $375.00 and the much needed for any type of timing magnetic probe is around $275.00. I have found these new meters complete on ebay for around $180.00 too. You need to be able to actually see what you are buying too. Ask questions of the seller and surely ask here. I have given plenty of timely advice helping members avoid the issues of a not complete meter offered at a good price. Its better to ask before you buy something that has a limited selling base. Remember that nobody in any state is offering timing for our engines. At this time we have three known members that are offering timing by appointment. I offer three meters and they are all out at this time but continue asking questions here. If you can attend the ralley this year there is a member that always offers a timing clinic for free. He works tirelessly doing this too. I did about 10 trucks once out here on the west coast... It nearly killed me....Brimmstone
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If you want to buy a timing setup, you want to avoid getting the used tools off ebay becuase the lions share of them don't work or are missing very expensive parts. You'll end up buying a handful of the things before you get a complete one that works unless you just happen to get extremely lucky ( I learned my lesson on that one the hard way
Just get a Ferret Pulse adapter here ( this place has consistantly had the lowest price on the things over the last few years ) and with that and a quality advance type timing light, you are all set to go. You just sand off a little paint and clamp it on to #1 or 4 injector line and then trun it up to 2000 rpms and set the advance on teh light where you want it and then check as you would a car. Only difference is do not try to adjust the pump with the engine running.
I agree they are the cheapest place around but they tend to be slow on delivery sometimes. I got one just to use as a pickup for dyno runs. It works perfect for that and makes timing the engines so much faster than the lumi method. I love my lumi meter but the ferret is so easy to use it's laughable. I was going to get the different clamps to use it on all the different tubing sizes, but I picked up a snapon version on the UK ebay shipped to me for 30 dollars us.
Hey thanks for the info. I went to that site and that looks like a good price. I dont have any timing stuff. What all will I need? I would like to make it to the rally but Im not sure if work will alow. Good info on the injectors too.
FordGolfer7
Registered User
This discussion form 2012 is very interesting to me. I am currently in the process of purchasing a timing setup for my 89 7.3 IDI. I clicked on the link for the ferret adapter in one of the earlier posts. I could not find one there, do they still make them and are they still available? Is there a better method now? Any elp and/or advice will be greatly appreciated.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
R&D has a source of reverse-engineered nozzles(sent one off and had it copied) that seem to work quite well. This is why his rebuilds are 'as good as new'.Right now the rebuild parts cost more than a new injector so I wonder what a rebuilder is really doing.. Cleaning and bagging them....
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
I just bought a set of brand new Stanadyne injectors. The boxes said ``Made in Italy,'' as I recall. Is there a reason to prefer ``as good as new'' rebuilds to new?
The "as good as new" ones have been pop tested and matched. The new ones will need to be tested and possibly adjusted.
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Those are the Chinese nozzles right?
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
That makes good sense. I should really buy a pop tester. Are any of the cheapy pop testers on ebay any good?
Ask Wes
