Big Ugly goes to rehab

Dirtleg

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Guess I'll go ahead and update this thread. Truck is now registered and insured and pulling it's first load today which amounts to a small trailer with a riding mower on it.

Here it is when I first drove it home from the farm.
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Parked in the shop.
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Some pictures of the rotten brakes.
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So still have things to work on. Went ahead and got all new brake hoses, A/C kit (compressor, dryer, etc) and new inner and outer left and right tie rods. Determined the soft pedal issue is poorly adjusted rear drums and the RABS needs to be bled.

And something odd has happened with the trailer wiring. It has the factory trailer wiring and I have fixed it so that everything works but if I have the running lights on the turn signals don't work. This is without a trailer connected and just testing the truck wiring. The actual truck lights work perfectly however. Thinking I've got a crossed up ground somewhere but no idea where yet. I'll start with my EGT gauge as it's started acting weird when the lights are on.

Hope to make it out to the Rally for a day this year since it's so close to home. Work has kept me out of town and I've been moving this month as well so lots to do but little time.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Thanks. I'm not the most up on dual sports, but the mirrors and estart button gave it away. Of course the blue means Yamaha most of the time.
 

Dirtleg

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So upon further inspection my trailer running lights and signals are working properly. Good news.

Today I decided to investigate why my horn wasn't working.

Checked the horn button for power and continuity. All good. 12v at the wheel connection under the steering wheel cover. I then went under the hood and could hear the horn relay clicking in the power distribution box but no horn.
I pulled the wires off the horn and connected a meter between there and ground. With the horn pressed it displayed 1 volt. Hmm. Bad contacts in the relay. Swapped relay problem solved.

Love it when it's simple.

Edit** Forgot to add the reason my EGT gauge is acting weird is somehow tied to the dimmer. I have the dash lights tied to my accessory gauges lights so I need to figure out what I did wrong there.
 

Dirtleg

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Well yesterday was another good day for the old monster.
"Shame notice" In my rush to get things sorted on the truck I've been focusing on the glaring issues that have been in my face. I just yesterday checked the transmission fluid and it was low. Oops. In my defense the truck doesn't leave any fluid on the ground when parked. I added 2 quarts and it's still low. Guess I'll need to get some more fluid and get it topped off. Good news is it's actually shifting smoother and putting noticeably more power to the ground as well as running cooler.

I finally adjusted the rear brakes and that fixed the soft pedal issue. Also fixed the brake and abs lights coming on after hard braking. So now she stops well again. And the e-brake is back to fully functional.

And I finally swapped the pieces of fuel line I used to fix my power window motor with the correct plastic inserts and re-installed the door panel. Still looks like crap inside but......

This morning I'm getting state inspection done. It may not pass (play in steering, tires) but at least I'll have a 30 day grace period to get those corrected without getting a ticket.

And with that in mind it's an issue because I've been driving it everywhere. Over 500 miles in the last 4 1/2 days. Forgot how fun these old trucks are to drive. Now I'm going to have to add some tunes. The existing stereo works but just barely.
 

hesutton

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you really owe it to yourself to make it to the rally. I've made some lifelong friends from the 2012 rally. will try to get out to another someday in the future.
X 2.

Was really cool to meet and hang out with Calvin in '12. Hope you can run over to the rally in a few weeks and hang out with us.

Heath
 

Dirtleg

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you really owe it to yourself to make it to the rally. I've made some lifelong friends from the 2012 rally. will try to get out to another someday in the future.

X 2.

Was really cool to meet and hang out with Calvin in '12. Hope you can run over to the rally in a few weeks and hang out with us.

Heath

Thanks for the encouragement. I am planning to go for at least a day but my work schedule is so fluid right now I can't guarantee I'll be in town that week. I've heard talk of needing to be in Salt Lake City, Montgomery Alabama and Lake Wales Florida around that time. May be nothing but don't know for sure.

And in other news this just happened.
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Fully legal now.
 

Dirtleg

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So a little update. Been driving quute a bit this week (600 miles so far) and will be using it again tomorrow to pull a trailer so decided to fill up on my way home. I was running the rear tank and filled it first. 220 miles and it stopped at 8.8 gallons. What? That can't be right. I fill up the front tank and it takes 17.4 gallons. So since diesel is quite foamy I decided to see how much more it would take. Another 1.2 gallons is all I could in there before it was visible in the filler neck.

So 10 gallons in 220 miles. I'm a little shocked by that. Happy but shocked.
 

Dirtleg

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So I guess this is turning into my truck rehab thread.

Bad news the ABS light has decided to start coming on again. Brakes still working well but seems the rear are slow to release after a hard stop. Coincides with the ABS light coming on. I've got all new rubber lines to install so will bleed the ABS module when I change them.

My wait to start light had not been working and I suspected it was the bulb so this morning I pulled the dash to investigate. Yep that was it. Anyone know the part number for that bulb? Swapped it with the engine temp bulb and it works again.

While I was in there I decided to find out what was causing my Autometer Pyrometer to not work when my lights were on and the dimmer turned up. Back when I installed the Pyro and Trans Temp gauges I put a little distribution block in the dash for gauge wiring.
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After checking around it appears my ground to the gauge, was tied to same ground as my lighting. The main ground went to the chassis so I thought it'd be okay but it wasn't. So I isolated the ground to the Pyro from the lighting ground and problem solved.

A couple years ago my ex asked me if I had a working injection pump for the truck. I did have an IH reman with about 20k on it that I had pulled out when I put the Moose in back in 08'. She had the truck at this time and her boyfriend, who's not a bad guy and a decent mechanic himself had told her the IP had a broken part on it and needed to be replaced.

Well I was wanting the moose back anyway and after looking at what was broken, it was the external solenoid actuation lever, I decided to give her my pump in exchange for the moose figuring I could easily fix it when the time came.

Right now the stock pump, not turned up, is installed. With the factory turbo on there and pulling a trailer up a 7% grade I could not get the EGT's over 1000°F. Boost was peaked at 6lbs. Man I really need to get the Moose pump back on there.

With that said, any of you guys have one of those levers sitting around? I can get a picture if needed.

So that's it for now. Time to mow grass.
 

Thewespaul

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I believe that bulb is just the regular 194? I’ve got ip parts here, post a pic so I can go parts digging in the shop
 

Dirtleg

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I believe that bulb is just the regular 194? I’ve got ip parts here, post a pic so I can go parts digging in the shop
I'll find a picture. My shop right now is an hour from home as I just moved so I'll get a picture next time I'm there. Or if I can dig one up on google I'll post it here.

Thanks.

If it's a obs, it's a teeny tiny bulb. Maybe a 74?
I think bricks do use the standard 194 throughout.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Yeah it's the tiny bulb. Not a huge rush right now just wanted to know.
 

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