Need advice with my 1992 F250 7.3 IDI

[Nick382]

Does the pedal FEEL sloppy at the top of the travel?

This time it does. Before I replaced all the components, it did not.

So I'll order a pair of those clutch arms and rig up a way to take the slop out of the master while I'm tightening the lever.

My problem this time was the master did NOT give before the lever was more in line. By the time it was possible to push back, I had already started cutting the splines.

Edit: spelling

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[Thewespaul]

Did you buy a pre bled master?

 

[madpogue]

Try re-clocking the arm. Mark, remove, rotate counter-clockwise one notch on the splines and reinstall. See if that improves things.

 

[Nick382]

It was a pre bled system. I'll try clocking it after work.


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[Nick382]

It tried to improve after moving it, but the pedal eventually didn't come up to the stop, so it seems like the splines slipped. I've got a new arm coming tomorrow, is installing that correctly a four arm job? I couldn't seem to push the MC rod with enough force to make a difference.

Outside of that, I will have to measure the new fork travel, and then suspect the pressure plate


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[79jasper]

On mine the edge of the arm is almost lined up with the edge of the bracket. It may be one spline towards the firewall.
If you look at the pics in my document, you may get an idea.
So also, sounds like you Have the rod connected while trying to put the arm on. Don't do that. Put the arm on first, then the rod. http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a050a7825f6a/Heim joint mod.pdf

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[Nick382]

On mine the edge of the arm is almost lined up with the edge of the bracket. It may be one spline towards the firewall.
If you look at the pics in my document, you may get an idea.
So also, sounds like you Have the rod connected while trying to put the arm on. Don't do that. Put the arm on first, then the rod. http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a050a7825f6a/Heim joint mod.pdf

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That was exactly what I needed to see. I was clocking it around 30 degrees away from the firewall in comparison to your image. I bolted the same arm in the new position and the truck shifts fine. I can tell which syncros are worn versus every shift being a challenge!

Next on the short list will be to replace the glow plug harness and find out why the resistor on my glow plug controller is smoking.

I also still don't have an odometer or speedometer, but I haven't done any reading on that yet.


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[79jasper]

If you're talking about the z strip thing. It's normal for it to get ridiculously hot. Lol Maybe some oil or something got on it.

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[Nick382]

If you're talking about the z strip thing. It's normal for it to get ridiculously hot. Lol Maybe some oil or something got on it.

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That's the one!!

I checked to make sure yellow/tan wires weren't burning up. I couldn't see anything other than the metal smoking, so I'm probably in the clear.


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[Nick382]

One 20 amp fuse and a VSS later, switch starts the truck and I have a speedo.

So now I can take it to someone who knows what they're doing to fix this slow fuel leak/time it. Anyone in Ohio?! [emoji16]


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[Thewespaul]

I’d check the timing registry for someone nearby otherwise take it to pa Mel would be happy to time it

 

[Nick382]

I’d check the timing registry for someone nearby otherwise take it to pa Mel would be happy to time it

What is Mels handle on the forum?


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[Thewespaul]

@Agnem

 

[Nick382]

Unfortunately any member relatively close is still around 4-6 hours away. I think I'm going to end up dropping the truck off at a shop later this week to fix this fuel leak (cylinder 7 drip at the injector pump) and time the IP correctly. Tomorrow morning is the second alignment appointment, but I'm not going to miss this one.

I have also noticed something very troubling... when shifting from 1st to 2nd, the selector sometimes doesn't fall fully into the gear. This results in it trying to pop out. From what I understand, it's either the shift forks or the synchro's. Not that it matters much since both require a teardown, but if this is happening between 1st and 2nd my bet is the synchro's. PO used to take off in second gear, so I suppose I could avoid the granny gear.

It's too bad a 7 speed swap is a lot harder than bolt in on top of me just buying a dual mass flywheel...

 

[79jasper]

Well the zf5 doesn't have a "granny gear."
If you want more wear and tear (namely to the clutch/flywheel) by all means, start in 2nd.

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