Need advice with my 1992 F250 7.3 IDI

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Nick382, Aug 4, 2017.

  1. Nick382

    Nick382 Full Access Member

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    That's probably not a very wise thing to do. Huh??

    I guess I'll just drive it the way it is and hope the internals last a while.


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  2. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    You can, many do it. It's just not for me. Lol
    I have destroyed 1 zf5, and 2 bw1356 tcases. So I try to be a little easier on them. Lol
    A rolling stop, I may stay in 2nd. But if you're really lugging the engine or having to slip the clutch, you should grab a lower gear.

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  3. Nick382

    Nick382 Full Access Member

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    I've got a 2wd zf5, so no issues with the transfer case. I'm guessing before it's all said and done that I'll be swapping my unit for a different one.


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  4. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    I've always started my zf-5 trucks in 2nd.
    That being said, they are all 4.10 rear gearing; higher gearing might need a lower gear.

    I haven't had any 'problems' with my ZF-5s... other than problems that were there when I got the truck(Mostly-shot 2nd synchro? There when I got the truck, still about the same 5 years later).
     
  5. Nick382

    Nick382 Full Access Member

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    So did you have the gear pop out problem? Did it get worse!?

    I've got the 3.55 in mine, so I think I'll continue using first.


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  6. snicklas

    snicklas 6.0 and Loving It!! Staff Member

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    What part of Ohio are you in?
     
  7. Nick382

    Nick382 Full Access Member

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    At the moment I'm an hour north of Columbus. PM me?


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  8. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    So are mine.
    I've personally seen one spit out parts of the DMF, and also the clutch disc center hub be ripped out.
    Is it a direct cause of skipping first? Maybe, maybe not.
    And all have ran near factory sized tires. So it's not that. Lol

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  9. Nick382

    Nick382 Full Access Member

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    Picked my truck up from the shop today. Told them I didn't want the truck back until the fuel leak was fixed. I also wanted it timed if they were able to stop the fuel leaks. So I provided them with two new injection lines (5 and 7) from the ones that were leaking...

    They told me that hard lines cylinders 5 and 7 weren't tight enough. And that's all it took to stop the leak. They proceeded timed the engine to 3.5 degrees (luminosity I guess?)

    So the truck sounds and drives better and all. But this thing still leaking under the IP. Not a spray, but a constant drip.

    So I basically just wasted those three days and all that money. I need the truck, so I'm driving it tomorrow on a long haul. Should probably buy a fire extinguisher...



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  10. Pork_Chop50

    Pork_Chop50 He looks kinda hairy and slobbery to me....

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    There are two bolts under on the bottom side of the IP, I believe a 1/2" wrench fits them but it might be bigger. If they are not fully seated fuel will leak out of them, and pool on under the intake. When I was swapping injectors I loosened them, and didn't re-tighten until AFTER my test run because I had a substantial fuel leak. Don't ask me why I loosened them, I have no good answer. The other one to check is the olives coming from your filter to the IP itself. If those are old, hard and cracked no amount of tightening will get them to stop dripping.
     
  11. Nick382

    Nick382 Full Access Member

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    I didn't move any bolts on the IP. Just the ones that mount it. Thanks for the suggestions though.

    Olives are less than 60 days old. The leak appears to be coming from the IP connection for cylinder 7. I've established that it's not a return issue causing fuel to leak from the IP at the weep hole because of blockage.


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  12. Pork_Chop50

    Pork_Chop50 He looks kinda hairy and slobbery to me....

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    Then I would loosen that line at the injector completely and make sure that the line flare sits square to the injector itself. When I was messing with my timing, I ended up taking all my hard lines off and getting them positioned so each was neutral from pump to injector. And there were a couple that had to get a mild adjustment with a tube bender to find a new neutral.
     
  13. Nick382

    Nick382 Full Access Member

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    I did that when I had the leak with the new lines the first time. I spent two days getting all the lines to sit nicely. I removed the IP and made sure that the flare was square when I threaded it into the pump. Tightened everything to the pump, and the reinstalled. I'm probably just going to take it back to the shop I've paid already, since I don't see them giving me my money back.

    The entire point of me taking it to a shop was so it would be done correctly... haha


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  14. Pork_Chop50

    Pork_Chop50 He looks kinda hairy and slobbery to me....

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    Boy that stinks. I know I've had those types of gremlins that just can't seem to get solved. Hopefully your shop is able to see something you haven't yet.
     
  15. Nick382

    Nick382 Full Access Member

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    IMG_0459.JPG
    Any guess on what's under the tarp?


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