Need advice with my 1992 F250 7.3 IDI

Nick382

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Yes, a few. Search Google for some zf5 rebuild threads. Not exactly something everyone wants to do.
Could be fuel from the valley.

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I looked at a few rebuild threads as well as the rebuild Manual. The only seal tools I see are removers and these installers:

Rear: T87T-7025-BH
Front: T87T-7025-EH

Are there other tools I'm not seeing? It seems like using a socket to drive those seals in would work just about as well.


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79jasper

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That will work.
The main importance is setting up the bearing preloads. The rest is "easy" if you aren't pulling gears.

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Nick382

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That will work.
The main importance is setting up the bearing preloads. The rest is "easy" if you aren't pulling gears.

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And it's necessary to reshim the bearings even if I'm reusing the old tapered bearings? I just plan on swapping the clutch and flywheel.
 

79jasper

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Well, anytime you move anything (removing the race) you should recheck clearances.
Especially in these anemic zf's.

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Nick382

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Well, anytime you move anything (removing the race) you should recheck clearances.
Especially in these anemic zf's.

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I'll have to order a dial indicator then. Thanks for the suggestion.


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Thatoneguy

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I'll have to order a dial indicator then. Thanks for the suggestion.


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Make sure you get one where the opposite side of it can be used in the other direction too. Its basically a little stick that slides out and you can measure with it. THey don't all have it and its really handy!
 

Nick382

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Make sure you get one where the opposite side of it can be used in the other direction too. Its basically a little stick that slides out and you can measure with it. THey don't all have it and its really handy!
Do you mean like test probes at 12 and 6? The ones on amazon under $50 appear to be only at 6.


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Thatoneguy

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Do you mean like test probes at 12 and 6? The ones on amazon under $50 appear to be only at 6.


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Maybe... All dial calipers have the jaws on the front that grab something and measure it. Some also have a measuring tool on the other side. Its a simple little thing with a base you put at one end, and a rod that extends out the other and measures. I'll find a picture here in a bit. Sorry I'm terrible at explaining things.

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Macrobb

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Maybe... All dial calipers have the jaws on the front that grab something and measure it. Some also have a measuring tool on the other side. Its a simple little thing with a base you put at one end, and a rod that extends out the other and measures. I'll find a picture here in a bit. Sorry I'm terrible at explaining things.
It's called a depth gauge. Basically an extension of the "shield" that covers the gear track on the dial calipers.
 

Nick382

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So apparently the clutch kit I ended up ordering does not come with a new throw out bearing. The dual mass flywheel I ordered did have a pilot bearing installed that was made in USA. Probably just going to let that one live there versus replacing it with the made in China bearing from the clutch kit. Option C seems to be a Kevlar bushing, but unless it's a noticeable improvement I'd still have to wait for it to ship. Could send after a new shift fork too.

Not exactly sure what to do about the TOB. I'm sure a local auto parts store has a bearing that could work, but if I'm going to be replacing the rear main seal, I could order what I want versus settling.

I'm off to search for parts on Amazon! Gotta love prime shipping.


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Nick382

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So the transmission is finally on the ground. Inspection plate was grimey, but didn't have any fresh fluids on it. Flywheel and friction disc were dry as a bone. Not even a hint of contamination. A bit late to ignore the old seals as I've ordered sleeves and seals for the engine rear main, and tranny input/output. I only smashed my hand a little taking the pressure plate off. I bet the flywheel is going to hurt me on the way out/in.

The clutch disc still had a freaking ford logo on it. Probably a stretch to think it's the original, but I suppose anything is possible. Friction material was all but gone. Pressure plate was blued from getting hot... So, it's a good thing I'm replacing the flywheel and all!

Speaking on flywheels: I ended up with the wrong flywheel for my application. The one I got apparently fits the 94-97 PSD's. It's about an inch too big to cram into my transmission, so have to wait on the "right" one. Which had me questioning something...

If I replace the existing flywheel with the Valeo "upgrade" unit; Do I also need to replace the harmonic balancer (assuming the weight is different)? The other part I'm wondering about is the starter. I'm probably worrying about nothing.

Anyway, waiting on parts before the clutch can be tackled.
 

IDIBRONCO

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If you look, there's also 10 bolt holes in the PSD flywheel while there's only 9 in the IDI ones. That's another way to tell.
 

Nick382

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Well, the new (and correct) flywheel arrived today but there's another holdup.

I ordered a Fel-pro 40697, which was cool and all... Except it didn't come with the tool to install it. I believe the 16301 part number is the plastic tool to put that seal in. The ford kit was out of stock on Amazon, and I got impatient. I could test my luck with pounding it in there with a block of wood or whatever, but from what I've read the tolerances for being square is pretty small. While I am enjoying learning, dropping the transmission / flywheel the second time isn't exactly my idea of a good time.

Speaking on that, should I use "The Right Stuff" on the rear plate? This seems like a good chance to test its resilience.
 

Nick382

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So I can't seem to find an answer to this one:

Are the 92-97 clutch hydraulics interchangeable assuming you swap the whole system either way?

I'm asking because I can get a prebled system for around $70 versus paying around $40 more and also having to bleed it myself. The part numbers that rock auto has for the prebled kits seems to reflect the slave #'s for a early PSD setup. Couldn't find any info searching the numbers either.
 
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