f-two-fiddy
Registered User
There is a valley pan drain. If you unbolt the GP controller, you'll see it. You needa make sure it is open. To clean the valley, just use shop towels and a screwdriver (or whatever) to get up under the intake/IP
CDR Replacement and Misc
- Thread starter ZWilson07
- Start date
ZWilson07
Cowboy
Let me know if this picture works
Yeah mines def the rubber one piece which is good, but I still dont want to pull that rubber down tube with all that **** down there; because there is a very good chance it would get down in there.
Im still thinking very seriously about pulling my intake and valley pan, ESPECIALLY if im going to end up pulling my IP, and replacing all the fuel lines; I might as well do it then when all thats off because your already there. Acourse its going to suck buying a new valley pan, and seal for the intake but atleast it would be spotless for any future things and easily notice anything from here on out.
I dont know maybe ill just replace the cdr itself and keep the rubber down tube thats in there now, and when I pull my motor this coming summer, do all the intake, valley pan, new rubber down tube, etc when the motor is out of the truck.
what does that valley pan drain actually drain from? All my crap is just actually sitting on top of the valley pan, not inside it or anything.
f-two-fiddy
Registered User
It drains anything (oil, antifreeze, fuel, water) that gets on the pan, down the back of the block.
ZWilson07
Cowboy
Do you have a picture of the drain plug or anything to help me further along. I kinda get what your saying and prbably will once I tear into it, but just trying to picture it in my head is all.
Ona side note I think my return lines have finally dry cracked bad enough that they need to be changed. I think me leaning on them or barely moving em and such when reinstalling the CDR and air cleaner and everything made one finally go. Started it up tonight and was going to see if it was weeping out of the IP, and it started to squirt out of a bend on the front most cross over tube. I haven't noticed it before so I guess it was just barely enough to finally make it go.
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Is this hose included in the full return line kit?
Any recommendations of what everyone on the forum uses? Ive seen some not like standard circle clamps because they cant get it to seal very well, but thats what was on mine and was working fine.
That would be overkill running it that much, although if you are running dino oil, some folks do run a 2 oz maintnence dose in their running oil just to keep the thing running clean, or you could consider just running a treatment about every 30-50k miles to keep it in top shape. I'm running high end synthetic with a bypass filter so it stays really clean in there, and I've got over 70k miles on teh oil in the crankcase, but when teh test comes back that says its coming due for a change, Im going to dump a jug of auto rx in there before I change it because even fancy synthetic can get some varnish film , its light , but why give the nasties a chance to get a good foothold?
lilredtdi
Registered User
So I have been following this thread and wondered if someone could explain to me what the CDR acronym referred to in this thread is? I *assume* it is the crank case ventilation device located on the drivers side valve cover and connected to the intake.
If so, do they go bad? Are they replaceable? I am having alot of the same issues as the OP.
I do not want to thread jack but i feel it is on topic for others who run across this thread in the future. Instead of starting a redundant thread thought I'd ask.
Thanks in advance..............Frank
If so, do they go bad? Are they replaceable? I am having alot of the same issues as the OP.
I do not want to thread jack but i feel it is on topic for others who run across this thread in the future. Instead of starting a redundant thread thought I'd ask.
Thanks in advance..............Frank
Crankcase depression regulator. They do go bad. They are replaceable and available. Part number in the "parts bin" under tech articles. I got mine from Ford parts giant.
With that picture I posted, you don't need to assume anything
Nothing else looks like it. Only the location is different in the turbo motors
With that picture I posted, you don't need to assume anything
Nothing else looks like it. Only the location is different in the turbo motors
lilredtdi
Registered User
Thank you dgr.................I searched where you suggested and can find an adapter and o-rings but not the CDR itself. Are they serviceable? If they are what is the service procedure?
The only reason I am curious as mine has alot of residue around and on it and i see some vapor coming out of the dipstick tube. I *assume* this is not normal and due to a blockage in the crank case ventilation system.
The only reason I am curious as mine has alot of residue around and on it and i see some vapor coming out of the dipstick tube. I *assume* this is not normal and due to a blockage in the crank case ventilation system.
The "adapter" is what Ford and international call the cdr.
my guess is they fail in the open position and apply more vacuum than necessary to the crankcase. I also think a poorly sealed crankcase will cause it pull more air out if the crankcase than would be necessary with a well sealed system. Could be why we see so little oil leaking on valve cover gaskets that are 25 years old.
Doesn't Ford recommend they be replaced every 50k miles? That would suggest every 4 to 5 years with an average of 12k miles a year.
If I was looking at your truck, I would try limiting the air on the intake. That would increase available vacuum. I think that would stop the smoke out of the dipstick. You can pull the cdr and see if you can blow through it. You can also check the grommet on the back of it because if it is sucking air there, it could not have enough vacuum to apply to the crankcase.
You can likely soak it in diesel or kerosene. Some people say not to. In my mind, anything that should be resistant to oil should be safe in those. MAKE SURE you get all the solvent out. You don't want that becoming fuel when you start your engine.
That is about all the arm chair diagnosing I'm good for. I am certainly no expert on these. But I did stay in a holiday inn last night and I did do a little research into cdr and diesel engines.
my guess is they fail in the open position and apply more vacuum than necessary to the crankcase. I also think a poorly sealed crankcase will cause it pull more air out if the crankcase than would be necessary with a well sealed system. Could be why we see so little oil leaking on valve cover gaskets that are 25 years old.
Doesn't Ford recommend they be replaced every 50k miles? That would suggest every 4 to 5 years with an average of 12k miles a year.
If I was looking at your truck, I would try limiting the air on the intake. That would increase available vacuum. I think that would stop the smoke out of the dipstick. You can pull the cdr and see if you can blow through it. You can also check the grommet on the back of it because if it is sucking air there, it could not have enough vacuum to apply to the crankcase.
You can likely soak it in diesel or kerosene. Some people say not to. In my mind, anything that should be resistant to oil should be safe in those. MAKE SURE you get all the solvent out. You don't want that becoming fuel when you start your engine.
That is about all the arm chair diagnosing I'm good for. I am certainly no expert on these. But I did stay in a holiday inn last night and I did do a little research into cdr and diesel engines.
