CDR Replacement and Misc

[ZWilson07]

So I was checking out my air filter housing and where it bolts to the intake and noticed some oil pooled up inside as well as some dust and dirt. Now the filter looked really old and I assume that its just been a long time since its been cleaned out. I dont know if maybe that is just oil thats accumilated over a long while or if my cdr has finally starting to go.

Heres where I started.

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Well decided before id put it back on and see if its old or new that id take a look at the cdr. Looks original to me which isn't shocking with the 45,000 miles.

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I assume this is the only seal there is beens the other end looked into the tube that goes to the intake. Is this the one everyone worries about breaking down and falling inside the intake? Because mine seemed fine, but I also have low miles. But I guess I should go ahead and replace the cdr because its the factory original one?

Also does it matter that the cdr just popped off that tube going to the intake with the clamp still on the rubber hose? Doesnt look like a standard circle clamp that you can loosen up or anything and I cant see down how it fits on the intake because of the dirt?

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Lastly I have alot of dirt and cdark rap built up beside the cdr tube, and on top of the intake between all the different runners underneath the injector pump. I dont know if this is just from so many years, or if had a small fuel leak at once and mixed with the dirt or what? I guess im going to have to pull off the injector lines, fuel injector pump to get down and clean it all; or actually pull the intake to get all into the tight spots?

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Also how the heck do you be able to work on these things and get to the back area? Do you literally got to lay across the motor itself? Because for me im just afraid of damaging something laying on top of hoses or etc?

Thanks

 

[dgr]

The grommet that breaks off us the one at the bottom of the tube. Actually looks like you have the one piece tube. Old ones had a separate grommet at the bottom. It gets hard and has to be broken to get it out.

Cleaning the valley pan seems like a lot of work for not much gain.

I sit my fa on the radiator and also lay across the engine. If you have 4wd, you can stand on the hubs our you can put a step stool by the fender

 

[ZWilson07]

Yeah thats basically what I had to end up doing and actually literally sat on the radiator facing the hood and put my feet down on the exhaust manifolds and stuff on the right side.

As far as cleaning the valley plan, I just like it to be clean and would be alot easier to tell if I have a fuel leak from the IP or anything. Its so dirty underneath I couldn't even tell even if it did start.

As far as the CDR goes, you think one going bad would cause that oil build up. Mines 45,000 original miles so I doubt my engine is starting to go but there is also no telling the last time the CDR was cleaned and air filter housing and filter itself was super old.

As far as the one piece tube, you talking about the black tube in first picture I showed about the build up on the valley pan that has that special clamp on top? Were youmeaning the body of the tube where it goes into the engine, or like bottom of the cdr metal piece that goes down into the top of that tube? Any certain years it changed around or anything....

 

[Hydro-idi]

I probably believe if that truck has that many miles on it. I didn't see any oil inside the intake manifold.....which probably means your engine doesn't have much blowby either.

 

[ZWilson07]

I probably believe if that truck has that many miles on it. I didn't see any oil inside the intake manifold.....which probably means your engine doesn't have much blowby either.

Did you type that a little bit wrong, I wasn't reallly understanding what you were saying?

I got the second part where there is nothing on the intake manifold so you dont think its blowby, so do you think the oil that was inside the air filter housing was just from my cdr finally starting to go? I dont know if thats normal when the cdr valve starts going bad or getting stuck; I know ive read it can cause blowby problems, head gaskets, make the last 2 cyl run hotter but I don't really think those are my issues with the miles I have.

Just curious if having oil pooled up in the air filter housing is something that happens from the cdr going bad because thats not something I normal read as being listed in cdr threads.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Woops didn't get a chance to see that pic lol. I saw the intake pic and didn't see any oil in the intake manifold so I didn't see a problem with anything. Often times, a high mileage idi will have lots of blowby. These engines are notorious for having some blowby when new, but as they age, it increases quite a bit. Oil can sometimes be incorporated with blowby and re-directed back into the intake. The purpose of the CDR is to "filter" the oil from the blowby and re-route it back into the intake. It also regulates the amount of blowby via diaphragm But the CDR can have a hard time filtering oil from blowby if your engine has lots of blowby. Personally, my trucks intake manifold is covered in oil lol and I have a new CDR in it. I am hoping a couple treatments of auto-rx will help that issue with my engine.
Check your CDR valve. On the back of the CDR, you will find a pinhole. Blow air into that pinhole but do not use air compressor. That will rip diaphragm. If you hear the diaphragm move and holds air, your CDR is more than likely okay.
Secondly, I was saying that it is very hard knowing the actual mileage of some of these trucks, since the odometer rolls over. And if you are not the original owner, the PO could have told you anything and it's up to you to either believe it or not .

 

[ZWilson07]

Woops didn't get a chance to see that pic lol. I saw the intake pic and didn't see any oil in the intake manifold so I didn't see a problem with anything. Often times, a high mileage idi will have lots of blowby. These engines are notorious for having some blowby when new, but as they age, it increases quite a bit. Oil can sometimes be incorporated with blowby and re-directed back into the intake. The purpose of the CDR is to "filter" the oil from the blowby and re-route it back into the intake. It also regulates the amount of blowby via diaphragm But the CDR can have a hard time filtering oil from blowby if your engine has lots of blowby. Personally, my trucks intake manifold is covered in oil lol and I have a new CDR in it. I am hoping a couple treatments of auto-rx will help that issue with my engine.
Check your CDR valve. On the back of the CDR, you will find a pinhole. Blow air into that pinhole but do not use air compressor. That will rip diaphragm. If you hear the diaphragm move and holds air, your CDR is more than likely okay.
Secondly, I was saying that it is very hard knowing the actual mileage of some of these trucks, since the odometer rolls over. And if you are not the original owner, the PO could have told you anything and it's up to you to either believe it or not .

Well if you read my thread where I just bought the truck, the truck is MINT condition and like a time capsule so thats why I didn't have a hard time believing it was correct.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?60790-Finally-Picked-One-Up&highlight=

I just have a hard time trying to really understand specifics because many of times people just say in the intake. So is that actually inside the intake manifold, or are they talking about on the outside metal of the intake manifold itself in the engine bay, or the inside of the instake screen area that the air filter housing sits on, or are they talking about inside the actual air intake metal housing where the air filter sits itself or what?

All I know is I had oil inside the air filter housing itself which you can obviously tell by the pictures at the top and was just curious if a bad or worn out cdr valve would cause that issue because I know its normal to have some mist, but I feel like being pooled up in that amount isn't probably a normal operating thing. But I dont think its pooled up from a worn engine and being alot of blow by from the engine, so thats why I was just curious if that can be caused in a good engine but just the cdr valve going out for one reason or another.

Or if that amount is normal after a long time (due to me not knowing when the air filter has been changed and housing wiped out) then thats fine but I dont want to change the air filter out for a new one and then find out a week later is ruined again because the cdr valve is going out and caused it in the first place if that makes sense you know.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Haha I even responded to your thread and forgot you are the one with that truck. Yeah, that truck definately has that many miles on it you are damn lucky.
I would not worry about anything in regards to the blowby. Everything seems normal to me. I was referring to the inside of the intake manifold......on your fourth picture. It doesn't look like you have any oil in the intake manifold which is good. I wouldn't worry about the oil in the air filter bowl either. Just clean it off, add a new air filter, replace CDR if it doesn't pass the test, and change engine oil every 3-5k miles

 

[ZWilson07]

Haha I even responded to your thread and forgot you are the one with that truck. Yeah, that truck definately has that many miles on it you are damn lucky.
I would not worry about anything in regards to the blowby. Everything seems normal to me. I was referring to the inside of the intake manifold......on your fourth picture. It doesn't look like you have any oil in the intake manifold which is good. I wouldn't worry about the oil in the air filter bowl either. Just clean it off, add a new air filter, replace CDR if it doesn't pass the test, and change engine oil every 3-5k miles

Oh ok I guess you were meaning if I actually look down through the screen to the inside of the intake manifold, if there is oil pooled up inside there?

 

[dgr]

Yes, I meant the down tube. Mine was a metal tube that went into s grommet in the valley pan. Note I said valley pan where you said engine. It is a piece of sheet metal so if you need to pry the bottom of your down tube out, be gentle.

No clue what year they changed. I simply installed your style when I did mine as those are the part numbers available in the parts bin on this site.

If you want to understand the purpose and testing of a cdr, look to the Chevy crowd. They seem to have the best grasp on this subject . 6.5 Chevy cdr testing on google should get you there.


If you aren't going to test it with a manometer, and you aren't burning a lot of oil, I would change the air filter and check in 500or 1000 miles. You don't have a turbo so that us the only place oil could come from and they aren't terribly expensive or difficult to change. Something to think about.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Yes. This condition is typical with high blowby engines and/or a CDR that is not working properly.
Also, these engines are notorious for having one or more stuck piston rings, which will in turn increase blowby. Since my engine burns oil and has lots of blowby, I decided to purchase a couple of treatments of auto-rx. So far, my oil consumption has decreased a ton but blowby is still there. I am hoping my second treatment will clear that up a bit.
These engines need to be worked hard. Short trips and/or driving truck like a granny will cause piston rings to stick due to an excess of carbon buildup and not enough heat (egt's) to burn off that carbon.

 

[ZWilson07]

Yes, I meant the down tube. Mine was a metal tube that went into s grommet in the valley pan. Note I said valley pan where you said engine. It is a piece of sheet metal so if you need to pry the bottom of your down tube out, be gentle.

No clue what year they changed. I simply installed your style when I did mine as those are the part numbers available in the parts bin on this site.

If you want to understand the purpose and testing of a cdr, look to the Chevy crowd. They seem to have the best grasp on this subject . 6.5 Chevy cdr testing on google should get you there.


If you aren't going to test it with a manometer, and you aren't burning a lot of oil, I would change the air filter and check in 500or 1000 miles. You don't have a turbo so that us the only place oil could come from and they aren't terribly expensive or difficult to change. Something to think about.

Is the rubber down tube just held on to the valley pan with the same type of clamp that is on the top of the rubber down tube which holds it tightly around the bottom of the cdr valve? I cant remember what those types of clamps are called but if I decide to jsut go ahead and replace the whole thing, should I just use a standard screw circle clamp on the bottom and top of the rubber down tube?

Yes. This condition is typical with high blowby engines and/or a CDR that is not working properly.
Also, these engines are notorious for having one or more stuck piston rings, which will in turn increase blowby. Since my engine burns oil and has lots of blowby, I decided to purchase a couple of treatments of auto-rx. So far, my oil consumption has decreased a ton but blowby is still there. I am hoping my second treatment will clear that up a bit.
These engines need to be worked hard. Short trips and/or driving truck like a granny will cause piston rings to stick due to an excess of carbon buildup and not enough heat (egt's) to burn off that carbon.

Would you recommend me using that auto-rx treatment even with my low miles?

Im thinking im just going to put my old cdr valve back on and see how much is there in the next 500-1000 miles like suggested and if its like that again then im just going to replace the whole cdr valve, grommet, and rubber down tube. I need to change out all my rubber fuel lines in the engine bay anyways so when I pull the fuel hardlines and caps to do that im thinking about just pulling the IP, and intake so I can get down to that valley pan and clean it all up and then it will be super easy to put a new cdr and all that in then. It bothers the **** out of me having all that dirt down there and could easily get something like into the valley pan if I changed out the rubber down tube now; and its tight fitting down there anyways with the intake on so it would be hard to be super careful and not get any dirt in if I did it now.

But when I decide to do the fuel line work here in another 2 weeks when my graduate school semester ends, I figure I might as well just do it all at once beens I would already be half way there almost.

 

[dgr]

The rubber down tube latest style has the grommet molded into the bottom. I don't know why yours has a clamp on the top line. I don't think it needs one. Just myho

When you pull that intake, you are breaking the seal with the valley pan that is also the intake gasket. Sure you want to go there? I don't know if I would reuse an old valley pan.

I would run auto rx in any low mileage engine if i thought it could have a stuck ring. Low miles could mean grandpa drove ittoget the mail a couple times a week. Bad juju for an engine. I would spend the money on it before a new valley pan

 

[Hydro-idi]

I am thinking your IP may be leaking. This is not uncommon and would cause the valley pan to have a bunch of crud on it.
As for the CDR, you can replace those parts if you wish. It may or may not help the oily air filter/intake situation.
As for auto-rx, it wouldn't be a bad idea at all. This stuff works miracles. I was burning over a quart every 500 miles before auto-rx. Now with the first treatment almost completed, I have added 2 quarts in a 3,000 mile span. I am very pleased with the product and will be doing a second treatment after I do the rinse stage.
Even though your engine has low miles, it may still have some stuck piston rings. Auto-rx will slowly clean your entire engine and has been proven to clean ring packs.

 

[ZWilson07]

The rubber down tube latest style has the grommet molded into the bottom. I don't know why yours has a clamp on the top line. I don't think it needs one. Just myho

When you pull that intake, you are breaking the seal with the valley pan that is also the intake gasket. Sure you want to go there? I don't know if I would reuse an old valley pan.

I would run auto rx in any low mileage engine if i thought it could have a stuck ring. Low miles could mean grandpa drove ittoget the mail a couple times a week. Bad juju for an engine. I would spend the money on it before a new valley pan

So what holds the downtube to the valley pan and seals it then?

I also agree I dont think it needs a clamp on the top of the downtube where the cdr goes in, which I just put it all back together now and didnt put that top clamp on so I guess well see. (I didnt have to worry about the rubber downtube because it stayed in place when I pulled the cdr, which is why im asking because I dont know how it seals; and the freaking intake sits so high you cant hardly ever see down there or anything. Hell once you put the cdr back in the tube, you cant even look around and under it to see if its fully seated inside the rubber down tube which is also why if I put a new one on id want the intake off so I can see what the hell is going on)

Its def going to be a pain in the ass to pull then intake and do a new valley pan and gasket but there is just no way to get all that **** out and make it clean without pulling the intake. As Hydro metioned he thinking the IP may be leaking a little or atleast has with the first owner which created all of it in the first place, but its so dark and thick I cant even tell if its leaking now which is another reason I want to clean all that **** out. As well if im going to pull the IP to fix a leak, and pulling the fuel lines to replace all that, I might as well do the damn intake while im in there because nothing else it hardly left to come off to do it at that point.

I am thinking your IP may be leaking. This is not uncommon and would cause the valley pan to have a bunch of crud on it.
As for the CDR, you can replace those parts if you wish. It may or may not help the oily air filter/intake situation.
As for auto-rx, it wouldn't be a bad idea at all. This stuff works miracles. I was burning over a quart every 500 miles before auto-rx. Now with the first treatment almost completed, I have added 2 quarts in a 3,000 mile span. I am very pleased with the product and will be doing a second treatment after I do the rinse stage.
Even though your engine has low miles, it may still have some stuck piston rings. Auto-rx will slowly clean your entire engine and has been proven to clean ring packs.

I think I might try it out, it wouldnt be to shocking if stuff was a little stuck as im sure the truck hasn't been out towing hard for abunch of miles. He just said he used it on the farm to move equipment around and such but obviously with the miles it wasn't significant enough like towing on the highway would.

I guess I got to pull the IP completely to see where its leaking at or is there one spot that usually always does it from?