Battery relocation.

Overloaded-dadbod

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So after riding in a truck with no airbox for a little while I can firmly state. The intake noise is unbelievable!
So with that said I have a flatbed on my truck and started wondering about moving the battery’s to the passenger side behind the cab on the frame.
Would you think 4/0 would suffice for running the leads? Something bigger perhaps?
I’ll be taking the time when mounting it all back there to upsize to group 31
I plan on building an airbox on the driver side as that’s where my intake lands with my turbo and intercooler setup. I also plan on adding a attached coolant overflow to it and moving the wiper reservoir over to the passenger side and making it about 2.5 gallons (I hate dirty windows)
 

u2slow

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I had a battery like that on the frame of my E350. Terrible access, and prone to heavy corrosion. I brought both batteries inside after that. I did use #4/0 after jumpering them with #2/0.

Even if I only had a std cab, would see if I could squeeze 27's or 31's behind the seat.
 

Indadesert

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So after riding in a truck with no airbox for a little while I can firmly state. The intake noise is unbelievable!
So with that said I have a flatbed on my truck and started wondering about moving the battery’s to the passenger side behind the cab on the frame.
Would you think 4/0 would suffice for running the leads? Something bigger perhaps?
I’ll be taking the time when mounting it all back there to upsize to group 31
I plan on building an airbox on the driver side as that’s where my intake lands with my turbo and intercooler setup. I also plan on adding a attached coolant overflow to it and moving the wiper reservoir over to the passenger side and making it about 2.5 gallons (I hate dirty windows)
So your driving a 30-35+ year old flat bed diesel and your worried about noise? I’ve got the same set up open intake, turbo, intercooler. My cab is insulation from noise heat and cold top bottom sides back front. It’s has less cab noise then my 2024 wrx that is also turboed and intercooled. I think a man up may be in order. Or did you already loose your man card along the way. I run 4 batteries. One is under the bed for a rear winch. I run 2/0 to that battery. Jeeesh. The stuff I read on this site is unbelievable
 

divemaster5734

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So after riding in a truck with no airbox for a little while I can firmly state. The intake noise is unbelievable!
So with that said I have a flatbed on my truck and started wondering about moving the battery’s to the passenger side behind the cab on the frame.
Would you think 4/0 would suffice for running the leads? Something bigger perhaps?
I’ll be taking the time when mounting it all back there to upsize to group 31
I plan on building an airbox on the driver side as that’s where my intake lands with my turbo and intercooler setup. I also plan on adding a attached coolant overflow to it and moving the wiper reservoir over to the passenger side and making it about 2.5 gallons (I hate dirty windows)
4/0 MTW insulation would be okay for "solo" battery, but then you might think about doing 4/0 to the starter if your making your own.
The 2/0 would work well enough for a well running engine, but will definitely get a little warm if you push 1400 combined amps through it.
You want to put an overcurrent device as close to every battery as possible.
Without it you are subject to an uncontrollable dead short that has the potential to release enough energy to melt cables and ignite any combustibles anywhere along the cable that's in front of the OCD and downstream from the battery.
No matter what you do, consider getting a resettable inline 12vdc circuit breaker, something like this
You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach



Ones like these are easy to install over the 972 strand MTW, or a SGT insulation cable.
If you can find AWM cable with a PVC jacket they have a slightly higher rating, but stay away from the AWG.
Regardless of pre-made or hand made cabling, the two most important issues are securing the cable to avoid excessive vibration that can cause the insulation to be cut or worn down, and making sure you have overcurrent protection as close to the positive terminals as possible.

Electricity is my one and only area of expertise, truck batteries store a lot of energy, it's the resistance to the flow of electrons that generates the heat, a large capacity wire connected to a large amount of stored electrical energy without doubt has the potential to result in a catastrophic event.
The EV batteries that short out can't be stopped until the energy is spent.
They can't even mitigate the discharge, all they can do is stand clear and try to keep nearby objects from spontaneously combusting.
Just be sure to use a SGT or MTW, welding cable has the same strand count, but the insulation isn't as durable.
 

Jesus Freak

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So your driving a 30-35+ year old flat bed diesel and your worried about noise? I’ve got the same set up open intake, turbo, intercooler. My cab is insulation from noise heat and cold top bottom sides back front. It’s has less cab noise then my 2024 wrx that is also turboed and intercooled. I think a man up may be in order. Or did you already loose your man card along the way. I run 4 batteries. One is under the bed for a rear winch. I run 2/0 to that battery. Jeeesh. The stuff I read on this site is unbelievable
Ive ran as many as 6 batteries, 2 under the hood, and 4 in the bed because I was going to the scrap yard and was hauling them off.....I didn't run anything to those batteries, I actually don't run much......I scurry.......and you're right, ive read some unbelievable stuff on this site.....apparently if you squeeze waste oil hard enough it explodes! There's a freak on here that shows up from time to time and reminds everyone that he drives past gas stations because he puts all sorts of stuff in his tank.......and it works, i guess, he doesn't have a YouTube, so he might be lying.....and speaking of unbelievable!, I saw a thread where a guy who actually bears the handle of the original persecutor of the Christian (man thats ironic)church went out of his way to buy a guitar and ship it like 2500 miles to a guy......that's just unbelievable, I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't seen the pictures, but they were probably photoshop.......then the uneducated redneck straightened the neck with clamps and Florida humidity........anyways, yeah, the stuff you read on this forum will make a grown man cry, yes sir........speaking of "man up"..... about 2000yrs ago a bunch of religious nuts beat the living snot out of the Son of God, my Lord Jesus Christ, then he toted a giant piece of timber across town and was nailed to it. Yeah, he died, but more importantly he came back to life 3 days later.....and proved beyond a shadow of doubt that he is who he said he is and hes gonna do what he said hes gonna do.....who is he? He's God, my Lord Jesus Christ.......how do I know hes alive? Because he met an angry burned out pothead alcoholic in the back of a semi trailer 20yrs ago and breathed new life into him......I was such a different person that my wife decided she needed to look into Jesus herself, and shes saved now as well.....and listen, im not talking about heaven and hell, I could care less about "what happens when I die", my biggest fear is that I'll wake up tomorrow......I couldn't do it if I didn't have Jesus and His Word......Acts 2:38, gents........it's not hard to look around and realize there's a God, you better figure out who he is and what he wants, and then you better start doing it......have great night guys!
 
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u2slow

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I don't fuse cranking batteries. I want all the amps without popping anything. I don't figure 150A will hold for long.

For other types of loads, fuses or circuit breakers are a good idea.
 

Overloaded-dadbod

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So your driving a 30-35+ year old flat bed diesel and your worried about noise? I’ve got the same set up open intake, turbo, intercooler. My cab is insulation from noise heat and cold top bottom sides back front. It’s has less cab noise then my 2024 wrx that is also turboed and intercooled. I think a man up may be in order. Or did you already loose your man card along the way. I run 4 batteries. One is under the bed for a rear winch. I run 2/0 to that battery. Jeeesh. The stuff I read on this site is unbelievable
Cool story? When did your wife leave?
 

Overloaded-dadbod

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4/0 MTW insulation would be okay for "solo" battery, but then you might think about doing 4/0 to the starter if your making your own.
The 2/0 would work well enough for a well running engine, but will definitely get a little warm if you push 1400 combined amps through it.
You want to put an overcurrent device as close to every battery as possible.
Without it you are subject to an uncontrollable dead short that has the potential to release enough energy to melt cables and ignite any combustibles anywhere along the cable that's in front of the OCD and downstream from the battery.
No matter what you do, consider getting a resettable inline 12vdc circuit breaker, something like this
You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach



Ones like these are easy to install over the 972 strand MTW, or a SGT insulation cable.
If you can find AWM cable with a PVC jacket they have a slightly higher rating, but stay away from the AWG.
Regardless of pre-made or hand made cabling, the two most important issues are securing the cable to avoid excessive vibration that can cause the insulation to be cut or worn down, and making sure you have overcurrent protection as close to the positive terminals as possible.

Electricity is my one and only area of expertise, truck batteries store a lot of energy, it's the resistance to the flow of electrons that generates the heat, a large capacity wire connected to a large amount of stored electrical energy without doubt has the potential to result in a catastrophic event.
The EV batteries that short out can't be stopped until the energy is spent.
They can't even mitigate the discharge, all they can do is stand clear and try to keep nearby objects from spontaneously combusting.
Just be sure to use a SGT or MTW, welding cable has the same strand count, but the insulation isn't as durable.
Yea I have about 60’ of 4/0 welding cable that at work I routinely put 3-400 amps through at 19v+
 

Overloaded-dadbod

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I had a battery like that on the frame of my E350. Terrible access, and prone to heavy corrosion. I brought both batteries inside after that. I did use #4/0 after jumpering them with #2/0.

Even if I only had a std cab, would see if I could squeeze 27's or 31's behind the seat.
Corrosion isn’t really an issue with the part of the country I am in. No salt, I don’t go to the beach and often wash the underside with fresh water. Because the guy who has to work on it absolutely hates falling dirt that somehow always finds a way into the eyes.
I also have seat space at a premium with what I carry, I can very easily get a marine style box to mount under there. I have even thought about a single 4d 12v battery but I don’t want to have to use a floor jack to change batteries
 

u2slow

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Seems like nearly always wet and dirty does the corrosion. Not cold enough here for much salting.

Edit: if that's really how you want it, I'm sure you can do it better than Ford did with a top-loading metal box.
 
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kbenz

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So your driving a 30-35+ year old flat bed diesel and your worried about noise? I’ve got the same set up open intake, turbo, intercooler. My cab is insulation from noise heat and cold top bottom sides back front. It’s has less cab noise then my 2024 wrx that is also turboed and intercooled. I think a man up may be in order. Or did you already loose your man card along the way. I run 4 batteries. One is under the bed for a rear winch. I run 2/0 to that battery. Jeeesh. The stuff I read on this site is unbelievable
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