THANKS for the excellent pictorial.
One point to consider if one installs new brake shoes and does not perform the above pictured modifications is, the brand-new improperly made shoes just might have enough purchase for the actuator to engage the first hundred or so times and lead one to believe that their new shoes are not affected by the problem; however, with each application, the actuator is displacing metal and climbing a little bit farther over the edge, until it wears the top edge into a ramp; and, from that day forward, instead of spreading the shoes, the actuator will just climb over them.
Sometimes, all this displaced metal will form into a big burr hook that the actuator can hang up on and cause the brake shoe to hang and drag; the only remedy being to pull the drum and grind away the burr --- and while you're in there, just fix the shoe like pictured.
Another thing to consider, the leading edges of the actuator prongs have been wearing and rounding over just as much as the horns on the shoes; when one is welding and reshaping the shoe horns, they should also reface and square off the actuator prongs.
The actuators were meant to be a replaceable part that should have been replaced every other brake change; there is a reason why they are a separate piece from the brake lever itself; when doing brake jobs, everybody ignored the actuators and nobody ever replaced them; so, there was not much demand for new replacements and thus Dorman nor anyone else took it upon themselves to mass-produce them and now they are scarcer than hen's teeth and all the ones out there are worn out and rounded over, exacerbating the poorly made brake shoe problem.