I'm back in the IDI game!
- Thread starter homelessduck
- Start date
Ok, here is an idea... get a piece of thick steel that is long enough and wide enough to completely cover three of those bolt holes.
Make a template out of paper, for the bolt holes. Trace that onto your piece of steel.
For the two outside bolt holes, drill them the right size that when you put bolts through those holes into the crank, they center perfectly and tighten it down.
Now before mounting it... Drill a tiny pilot hole in the plate, in the center of that middle hole.
Now, when you bolt your plate to the crank, you have a pilot hole, which should keep your drill on center.
Start with a small drill bit, and work your way up to somewhere near the size of the body of the bolt. Just small enough that you don't get into the threads in the crank.
What is left should be very easy to get out.
Make a template out of paper, for the bolt holes. Trace that onto your piece of steel.
For the two outside bolt holes, drill them the right size that when you put bolts through those holes into the crank, they center perfectly and tighten it down.
Now before mounting it... Drill a tiny pilot hole in the plate, in the center of that middle hole.
Now, when you bolt your plate to the crank, you have a pilot hole, which should keep your drill on center.
Start with a small drill bit, and work your way up to somewhere near the size of the body of the bolt. Just small enough that you don't get into the threads in the crank.
What is left should be very easy to get out.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Man some people can do the dumbest things! That would make me want to go back and kick him in the unmentionables for being so stupid.
YJMike92
Full Access Member
On the other hand, he might not have sold the engine if the bolt had not been broken in the crankshaft. The worst thing that could happen is you swap crankshafts.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
After thinking about it for a while, I think that if you can get enough of a pilot hole, a reverse drill bit would probably walk the broken piece right out.
YJMike92
Full Access Member
My experience with that approach is if it broke because of over torquing that will probably work. If it broke because it seized going in or out that will probably not work.
sjwelds
Full Access Member
Exactly. "How it broke" is important to know if you can.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I appreciate him trying to help , but ya it did make things a bit more challenging. Tomorrow I am going to try the jig route. I have some easy outs I can use if I can get a hole drilled in it. He said it was just about torqued then snapped. Worst case I guess I will have to pull the crank and either set it up on the drill press or swap cranks. I'm pretty sure the one in the original engine is good. As long as everything else is legit , and it appears to be so far , I am super happy. I will get it on the stand and take more pictures tomorrow. Here is one from his ad.
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sjwelds
Full Access Member
Then the jig option should work. Start small like the man said.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I got it on the stand this morning and took the pan off. I have never had a new engine , so I am hoping this grit is just from the initial breaking in ...? There is a ton of it.
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homelessduck
Full Access Member
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YJMike92
Full Access Member
That looks a little scary. Has the engine already been run?
homelessduck
Full Access Member
He said he test fired it and let it run for a few minutes . He started it up again later in the day and let it run for another few minutes.
YJMike92
Full Access Member
I guess you could pull one main and rod cap and see what it looks like. Could the grit possibly from rust caused by moisture/condensation? Perhaps the engine sat in an area with high humidity. It's amazing how nasty things can get when left for a while.
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