New kickers for the old 1986 F350 + build info

[Rusgo]

Tell me about your “custom high velocity housing” are you just going with a tighter A/R? What size s200 is it?

Don’t shave the pistons. If you’re using an s200 frame turbo you’re gonna run out of turbo well before you ever need to be concerned about cylinder pressure.

Not quite custom. But AGP makes it. Came across it recently. Twin scroll t3. Has a smaller AR than anything Borg Warner offers. I really like my turbo, but it just needs a bit more pep down low. I see trucks pulling a hill slowly at low rpm and their turbos are spooling pretty fast, where as mine is just getting started at 1500rpm.

It's not bad, but there is definitely more fuel than air at that point. I need the down low usuable power. Gotta keep the gas mileage up and have that extra 500rpm of grunt while on a hill or pulling.

Thanks for the tip on the pistons. Been going back and forth. I currently hit 15 psi max with my turbo. Just a bit worried about too much boost in an already high compression engine.

But then, I really like that power down low and am thinking reducing the compression would reduce power and efficiency there some.

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[IDIBRONCO]

If you're trying to save money, the best thing you can do is leave it alone.

Well said!

 

[PROFG]

I may do dumb things to my truck, but I would never recommend someone else do dumb things to theirs.

And if it isn't broke dont do something that will probably make it worse.

If you're trying to save money, the best thing you can do is leave it alone.

And a new post would be good for such a specific question.

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Not asking for recommendation, not looking to make it worse, saving money usually nice thing, and finally, still learning fine line between hijack and on topic post. Criticism accepted but did you loosen one at a time or all, please. Thanks. Will post new, I think, about alternate studs/bolts.

 

[Rusgo]

Not asking for recommendation, not looking to make it worse, saving money usually nice thing, and finally, still learning fine line between hijack and on topic post. Criticism accepted but did you loosen one at a time or all, please. Thanks. Will post new, I think, about alternate studs/bolts.

I only did this because my head gaskets were newer and the engine was running great. Everything was loosened down to 60ftlbs in proper reverse sequence, then 30ftlbs. At that point, in normal sequence, I removed one head bolt at a time, replaced it with a stud and tightened it down to 30ftlbs. After they were all in at 30ftlbs, I continued through the normal tightening sequence.

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[Rusgo]

New to me 2011 super duty leaf springs. $100 a piece at LKQ. Eye to eye is 66" and each leaf is 7/16" thick. The center and each end has a plastic isolator between each spring. The leafs dont contact each other at any point. The overload is more substantial, and the 3 alignment brackets all have insulators.

Super happy they came with hardware. All those bolts would altogether be $100 dealer items.

Also, the hardware is super beefy, the bushings are bigger, and the overload is thicker.

Old springs are 56" eye to eye. Each leaf is 3/8" and there is only one none insulated alignment bracket. The leaves ride directly on top of each other metal on metal. Much of the suspension energy goes into grinding rust dust.

The new springs have a symmetrical center pin. Old ones have an offset center pin. So just the front bracket has to be zipped off and moved forward. Bolt holes have to be enlarged to fit the new hardware too.

Overall should ride better, be more stable and stronger, and resist axle wrap more.

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[Rusgo]

Serpentine belt system installed and new style timing cover on the 6.9l. Much more stable and the belts last longer. Servicing any part is much quicker.

When I got it everthing was very corroded. The brackets got a longish lye soak, and the steel pulleys and bolts took a long electrolysis bath in the same solution. Fabbed up a simple steel basket that's fits a Costco bin to dunk things and check on progress easily.

Primed and painted the steel parts and spent way too much time installing everything.

I could reuse the power steering pump, didnt even have to drain the system. Just use a puller to to swap pulley. Had to clearance the mounting bracket to squeeze the pressure line in.

The new vacuum pump looks very similar, but the shaft is a few hundredths large so the pulleys are not interchangeable.

The new alternator is of course much better. Makes more power at lower rpms and simplifies the electronics some.

New style air conditioner is more efficient and compact too. The condenser fittings and filter drier fittings are the same, so just need an updated hose to attached it all.

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[IDIBRONCO]

So what's the last picture of? Just in case you didn't know, you don't have to keep the fan clutch nut on the water pump if you don't want to. The pulley's held on by the bolts.

 

[Rusgo]

So what's the last picture of? Just in case you didn't know, you don't have to keep the fan clutch nut on the water pump if you don't want to. The pulley's held on by the bolts.

That's the lye tank. Had a battery charger hooked up to it to get rid of the rust on the pulleys.

I zipped the nut off the old fan clutch. All those exposed threads just looked incomplete without it there.

OCD thing.

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[PROFG]

Everything was loosened down to 60ftlbs in proper reverse sequence, then 30ftlbs.

Thanks

 

[Rusgo]

$125 junkyard NP205 brought home today and pressure washed. Not bad looking for a 40 year old piece of machinery.

Since this truck is an extra 3000lbs all the time, has larger tires, will have much more power than factory, I dont trust the NP208 to hold up under load. If you look at the aluminum transfercases in later model F350s, they're probably twice the size. The new iron anchor should hold up.

The switch is pretty straight forward. Bolts up no problem. The worst part is paying for new or modified driveshafts. I have some 2006 superduty axles that will be going in at some point for a parallel 4 link front. Going to try to use the driveshafts from it too. Bigger ujoints everywhere. (My leftover HP dana 60 and Sterling will be going into a jeep!)

Also picked up a 7.3 aluminum intercooler. Washed it, straightened out some fins, hit it with alumibright, and it looks almost new. Shiny.

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[IDIBRONCO]

I think that was a steal on the NP205!

 

[Rusgo]

You'd be surprised. Lots of them around. Hop on carpart and search in 1973 to 79 ford trucks. Ford put the in everything. Even f150s. They all had the same bolt pattern and input spine count. All fixed yoke.

Chevy had so many variations that the rare ones are expensive.

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[IDIBRONCO]

I've had several Dent Side trucks, but they were all 4X2. The only ones that I've had that were 4X4 were all Bull Nose.

 

[Rusgo]

Changed out the fuel senders/pickups today. Found some old stock ones on ebay. Guy said the were stainless steel, but I'm thinking more like silver zinc.

Even came with the shower heads! Was able to tilt the rear tank without removing it completely.

And for the first time since I owned the truck there is fuel in the tank.

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[Rusgo]

Not bad looking for 30 year old plastic constantly soaked in diesel. Zero engagement on the sender board though.

Cleaned and put some rust encapsulator on the ugly spots of the tanks. Self etching single stage. Should add another decade to the tank life. This stuff is magic.

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