New kickers for the old 1986 F350 + build info

Rusgo

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Just remember that the intake on the 80 - 86 trucks will suck a lot of water quick IF the water is deeper than it seems & hydrolock the the engine. Mount it higher with later intake hosing to prevent this. Will save your rods. (EXPERIENCE)
Ha, if I end up fording any deep rivers in my work truck full of water sensitive equipment I'll be careful.

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Rusgo

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Have some updates coming for the truck. Got a serpentine system installed. In the process of refreshing most of the fuel system.

It the moment though, I have the newer style fuel filter head and not 100% sure about three outlet ports on the side.

I have a vacuum sensors (what does that do?!) Have a pressure sender for a fuel pressure gauge I want to use. What else are those used for and is there an ideal placement port for each one?
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79jasper

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The middle one is for the Schrader valve, the rear (the "vacuum sensor" runs the change fuel filter light), the front port is the return from the ip/injectors.
I would run the fuel pressure sensor instead of the vacuum sensor. But iirc, you would need to run it in the center port.

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Rusgo

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Found this picture. Shows the shrader valve on the first port.

Maybe there are different setups?

But yeah full pressure must be at the shrader. Might just T off there with brass.
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Rusgo

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Thanks man! More to come. Have some big plans in the works. Full stainless steel setup on headers, up pipes, down pipe, turbo mounting brackets and 22psi external wastegate piping.

Going to shave the pistons to 20 compression ratio.

S200sxe turbo is getting a custom high velocity turbine housing to quicken spool up time. Have a full aluminum powerstroke intercooler coming in with piping.

Engine seal and bearing refresh.

Have extra long 2010 SD leaf springs going in the back.

Installing some seat heater controls for the factory audi seat heaters.

Getting the Ac going for the first time since I've owned the truck.

Rear bumper with tire and fuel and carrier.

Custom aluminum contractors canopy.

And some kooky stuff I cant divulge till finished..



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Alwaysreadyrob

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Does anyone know the diameters, thread type and filters used on these trucks, mine has 2 filter heads , one under the hood... With Schrader Valve but no water separator drain and one under the bed drivers side without a Schrader Valve but has a water separator drain valve. Both take 2 different sized fuel filters.
 

Rusgo

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Does anyone know the diameters, thread type and filters used on these trucks, mine has 2 filter heads , one under the hood... With Schrader Valve but no water separator drain and one under the bed drivers side without a Schrader Valve but has a water separator drain valve. Both take 2 different sized fuel filters.
Weird that your water seperator is under the bed. What year is your truck? I'm thinking somebody relocated it back there. The water separators we only used in the early years. Most of them are down low on the drivers side firewall.

I switch over to the newer head style because the water separator is integrated into the filter. Lets you delete the extra filter head. My old water seperator was letting alot of air into the system. Since they are on the vacuum side of the fuel system, any leaks draw air in and try to stall the engine.

Not sure of the thread size. Will double check when I install this one.

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Alwaysreadyrob

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Ya its really an extra install, trucks a 1994 7.3 IDIT Factory Garrett Turbo 4c4 long bed extra cab XLT ( whew)
 

Rusgo

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The filter I have on mine will work on yours too then.

BF1222-SP

Has the petcock in it and fits on the main filter head.

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PROFG

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In sequence I loosened the old headbolts to about 30% then removed them one at a time and replaced them with a stud and torque it to 30%. Went through the normal sequence after they were all replaced.

So only 1 bolt loosened at a time and replaced or all loosened and then 1 at a time replaced. Would seem to make huge difference in releasing tension on gasket. No, I don't have any leaks, that I know about, but am considering replacing bolts with cheaper bolts/studs for insurance. Maybe with these. Any good or not good enough?


1/2"-13 x 7" Grade 9 Yellow Zinc Finish Hex Cap Screw Fastenal (SKU)20712 UNSPSC 31161501 Manufacturer Fastenal Approved Vendor This is an Expanded Catalog Item Wholesale: $8.93 / each Online Price: $6.25 / each
 

Rusgo

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So only 1 bolt loosened at a time and replaced or all loosened and then 1 at a time replaced. Would seem to make huge difference in releasing tension on gasket. No, I don't have any leaks, that I know about, but am considering replacing bolts with cheaper bolts/studs for insurance. Maybe with these. Any good or not good enough?


1/2"-13 x 7" Grade 9 Yellow Zinc Finish Hex Cap Screw Fastenal (SKU)20712 UNSPSC 31161501 Manufacturer Fastenal Approved Vendor This is an Expanded Catalog Item Wholesale: $8.93 / each Online Price: $6.25 / each
I may do dumb things to my truck, but I would never recommend someone else do dumb things to theirs.

And if it isn't broke dont do something that will probably make it worse.

If you're trying to save money, the best thing you can do is leave it alone.

And a new post would be good for such a specific question.

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Thewespaul

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Thanks man! More to come. Have some big plans in the works. Full stainless steel setup on headers, up pipes, down pipe, turbo mounting brackets and 22psi external wastegate piping.

Going to shave the pistons to 20 compression ratio.

S200sxe turbo is getting a custom high velocity turbine housing to quicken spool up time. Have a full aluminum powerstroke intercooler coming in with piping.

Engine seal and bearing refresh.

Have extra long 2010 SD leaf springs going in the back.

Installing some seat heater controls for the factory audi seat heaters.

Getting the Ac going for the first time since I've owned the truck.

Rear bumper with tire and fuel and carrier.

Custom aluminum contractors canopy.

And some kooky stuff I cant divulge till finished..



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Tell me about your “custom high velocity housing” are you just going with a tighter A/R? What size s200 is it?

Don’t shave the pistons. If you’re using an s200 frame turbo you’re gonna run out of turbo well before you ever need to be concerned about cylinder pressure.
 

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