Attached are pics with the truck running, bluish smoke out the exhaust and she is choochin out the hole for the CDR pretty good.
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86 F250 6.9 IDI Smoking!!
- Thread starter chk1204
- Start date
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
If you're that close to Conestoga, it may be better to just drive over there and pick up a pump. If Mel has one on hand, you could take your old one with you and not have to mess with the core charge. As for the oil in the coolant, if it's not getting any worse, then it could be that someone had an oil cooler o-ring leak in the past and didn't get the cooling system cleaned out good enough. If you're positive that it's not getting more oil in the coolant, you could do a good flush to your cooling system and try to get all of the oil cleaned out. You may want to wait until it gets warmer if you don't have a heated shop to work in.
I will give them a call tomorrow to see what they have. Should I be worried about the steam coming out of the crankcase?? I'm new to these IDI and the ford CDR setup, I'm assuming it will have some but not sure at what point to be worried.
Some vapor is normal, but with the cdr connected it should go away once you raise it past idle. I wouldn’t jump into buying a pump and injectors yet, but bring the truck to Mel and let him look at it first
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
An even better idea!
I'm not in a position to drive it there yet, one because of the smoke (it gets pretty bad) and two waiting on the registration....silly Pennsylvania rules. I guess depending on the price it may be worth it. Id like to get the truck drive-able, if that means getting a donor 6.9 and rebuilding it I wouldn't be opposed. The truck had a bunch of work done to it recently, front axle rebuilt, rear brake lines all replaced, master cylinder, batteries etc. and its not in bad shape. I bought with the intention of putting some work into it and having a nice solid old truck to drive.
The guy I got it from put brand new injectors in it two weeks ago, ill see if Mel can test them for me.
The guy I got it from put brand new injectors in it two weeks ago, ill see if Mel can test them for me.
Oledirtypearl86
Full Access Member
In my opinion it sounds like a good truck to keep running even if you have to put a head gasket in it after it will give you years of trustworthy service
david85
Full Access Member
No bubbling coolant is a good sign. Not building enough crank case pressure to lift the oil filler cap is also a good sign.
The vapor coming out of the crank case looks about right but it's hard to say only from photographs. All IDIs are going to have blowby gasses that look like steam but its really just oil vapor. Revving up the engine with everything in place (air cleaner & CDR) should be enough for those vapors to get pulled back in as the CDR draws them to the intake manifold.
Even smoke from the tailpipe could simply be from sitting for too long. My 6.9 was not happy with my once I put it back on the road after being semi-retired for about a year. It took a good few weeks of driving before it started to feel normal again. Gray smoke was common any time I tried to pull away hard. For the first few days it really didn't want to get out of its own way.
If you are sure there are no bubbles or foam coming from the coolant, it might be time to take it for a drive once you get those tags.
The vapor coming out of the crank case looks about right but it's hard to say only from photographs. All IDIs are going to have blowby gasses that look like steam but its really just oil vapor. Revving up the engine with everything in place (air cleaner & CDR) should be enough for those vapors to get pulled back in as the CDR draws them to the intake manifold.
Even smoke from the tailpipe could simply be from sitting for too long. My 6.9 was not happy with my once I put it back on the road after being semi-retired for about a year. It took a good few weeks of driving before it started to feel normal again. Gray smoke was common any time I tried to pull away hard. For the first few days it really didn't want to get out of its own way.
If you are sure there are no bubbles or foam coming from the coolant, it might be time to take it for a drive once you get those tags.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
I agree with all of the above. I also agree with @Thewespaul that a weeping IP+bad idle timing = bad IP.
I have to go to bed but if you haven't already, give it the ol ATF/Diesel Kleen treatment and after 12+hours see how it runs then.
Can you get temporary tags in your area? In WA we can pay $15 for a 3 day temp license plate. In my book its worth $15 to get your engine up to temperature and run the **** out of it up some freeway hills to burn the soot out and see what is left over.
I also agree with taking it to Mel if at all possible, given the proximity. Paying once for a good IP is FAR better than dicking around with box store rebuilds or Pensacola. A good IP rebuild will set you back at least $650 last I checked but its totally worth it.
Years ago I bought a Pensacola rebuild and it took THREE tries to even get one that ran acceptably, let alone better than the clapped out one I was replacing. This was a huge pain, as they arent in the business of customer service and good products. They are more like house-flippers: they polish a **** as cheaply as possible and sell it to the highest bidder.
So the last time(3-4 years ago) I went with Russ, @typ4 on here and his rebuild is very solid and still running great. Mel's rep is every bit as good as Russ's and if you can drive there, even better!
Thanks everyone, i really appreciate the information and quick responses.
I called Conestoga Diesel Injection today and was able to speak with Mel. I explained my situation and he was very helpful and patient to work with. He suggested a rebuilt IP and injectors. I told him I fine with the IP but the injectors were just done and i wanted to pull them and have a look first. (I ordered a rebuilt IP....hopefully he will have one by the end of the week. Here is a picture of the one injector that was bubbling while running.....based on the condition of that injector is it possible there was a bad injector in the batch or would the bubbling be enough of a leak to cause the injector to look like that??
I called Conestoga Diesel Injection today and was able to speak with Mel. I explained my situation and he was very helpful and patient to work with. He suggested a rebuilt IP and injectors. I told him I fine with the IP but the injectors were just done and i wanted to pull them and have a look first. (I ordered a rebuilt IP....hopefully he will have one by the end of the week. Here is a picture of the one injector that was bubbling while running.....based on the condition of that injector is it possible there was a bad injector in the batch or would the bubbling be enough of a leak to cause the injector to look like that??
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Macrobb
Full Access Member
If that's rust, more than likely there was some moisture down there when the injectors were replaced, or simply water leaking through the cowl seal seeped down through the threads.
Just a cosmetic issue, really.
Just a cosmetic issue, really.
So I picked up my Mini Moose IP from Conestoga Diesel Injection today.....however, I failed to remove the feed line adapter off my core.....so much for trying to get the truck running this weekend.
Anyone have any luck piecing a new feed line together from local auto parts stores? I searched around and most posts were saying its a specialty thread.
Anyone have any luck piecing a new feed line together from local auto parts stores? I searched around and most posts were saying its a specialty thread.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I'm pretty sure that it is. Too bad you're not closer, I think that I may have an extra one laying around somewhere.
I was able to piece together a feed line from parts at Pep Boys. See below pic of necessary items. I used a 3/8" x 1/2-20 adapter and a 3/8" x 5/16" barb on the IP with O rings between each fitting, a length of 5/16" fuel line (bought 2 feet, probably used 18"), 1/4" MNPT x 5/16" barb on the filter housing. This bypassed the fuel filter return line, I ran a single post cap from the originals and got rid of the two post cap. I dont suggest this as a long term solution but it worked to get the thing up and running to see if my problems went away.....which they didnt.
I aligned the timing mark on the IP with the housing, bled the system and fired the truck up. Note I removed the injectors, cleaned and replaced the copper crush washers. Once the truck was running i used a temp gun to check injector bodies, the temps were all over the place, truck didnt smoke too bad when it first fired up but started smoking after a few mins. The smoke smells like unburnt diesel and dieselkleen (i filled the new filter with diesel kleen). I plan to run it again tomorrow and get a better temp reading, ran out of light and it started snowing on me. Anyone have an idea of what the injector body temps should be at once the truck is warm?
If the injector temps are off looks like I will be ordering a set of Moose Buddies from Mel at CDI. The more I read about rebuilt injectors the less faith I have in the fact that these are only 2 weeks old.
I aligned the timing mark on the IP with the housing, bled the system and fired the truck up. Note I removed the injectors, cleaned and replaced the copper crush washers. Once the truck was running i used a temp gun to check injector bodies, the temps were all over the place, truck didnt smoke too bad when it first fired up but started smoking after a few mins. The smoke smells like unburnt diesel and dieselkleen (i filled the new filter with diesel kleen). I plan to run it again tomorrow and get a better temp reading, ran out of light and it started snowing on me. Anyone have an idea of what the injector body temps should be at once the truck is warm?
If the injector temps are off looks like I will be ordering a set of Moose Buddies from Mel at CDI. The more I read about rebuilt injectors the less faith I have in the fact that these are only 2 weeks old.
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