86 F250 6.9 IDI Smoking!!

[Macrobb]

The correct thread for the IP is 5/16" ORB(O-ring Boss). You can find adapters on Amazon. One part number: C3269X5X2
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WH_C3269X5X2
https://www.amazon.com/Weatherhead-C3269X5X2-Carbon-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B00V7VOKDY/

 

[Thewespaul]

Yes it is not 1/2 -20 but what rob posted, in most cases it will get you by for awhile but will leak. There needs to be an o ring to seal that fitting, the threads are not meant to do the sealing.

 

[genscripter]

Ditch that auto parts store fitting, and get the R&D IP Inlet elbow instead. http://www.idiperformance.com/store/p59/DB2_injection_pump_inlet_fittings.html

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[chk1204]

I was going to go the JIC route but there were not hydraulic shops open on Saturday near me.
I ran the truck today, got it up to temp and used a IR temp gun to measure the injector body temps.....anywhere from 85-140F. The truck fires right up and runs well, to me it sounds like the timing may be off a little and has a slight knock to it (sounds like a normal diesel starting in 32F to me).
I think im just gonna order a set of Moose Buddies from CDI and ask for my adapter back when the injectors ship.
Anyone have normal operating temp #'s from injectors?

 

[Thewespaul]

135 is about average what I see with about 10-20 degree variance. Your injectors are shot

 

[chk1204]

I pulled the trigger on a new set from CDI. Hopefully they have a set in stock and I can get the truck up and running next weekend.
Pulled the bed off today to do some rust converter on the frame - some surface rust that I wanted to keep from getting worse. Need to do the parking brake cables as they are seized and some patch work on the bed itself.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It kind of sucks when you have to sink all of this money into your truck at once, but when it's going good, then you feel better about it. At least I did.

 

[chk1204]

I agree, the good news is the truck was only $800 and its pretty solid. It wont be a daily driver, and I like working on vehicles so i dont mind doing the work myself and enjoy learning new things. Once the engine is all tuned up, new cdr, air filter, fuel filter, diesel kleen, oil change, coolant flush, thermostat, rebuild oil cooler, new injectors and IP, I hope to have a great running truck for around $2000 and several hours of labor. The cab is solid, doors have some rust at bottom but I have two free doors, the only real body work is patching some rust on the bed. The only other issue i have come across is the parking brake cables are frozen and the clutch is whining slightly when you release the pedal, the clutch feels good so hopefully its just a bearing.

 

[TahoeTom]

With the bed off you could check the condition of the fuel tank pickups. The "shower head" sometimes breaks apart and you run out of fuel at 1/4 tank.

 

[chk1204]

I will take a look at them, have to do some research as I have never inspected one before. I plan to change the diff fluid while I am back there.

 

[chk1204]

So I got the new injectors installed, bled the system and she smokes more than before.....ugh. Any input as to what to check next? The smoke smells like diesel, after the injectors it seems more white than blue as before. There was some condensation that came out of the tailpipe at startup, it was water and not coolant.

 

[Oledirtypearl86]

Does it still smoke after it warms up

 

[chk1204]

I ran it for 10-15 mins and it smoked the street out. I will run it again this afternoon. I live on the edge of a corporate center, everyone going to lunch got a free smoke show haha.

 

[chk1204]

Ran it up to temp today with a 12v diesel pump from a 5 gal can into the filter housing and the mechanical pump going into a separate 5 gal can (was trying to bypass the fuel system to rule that out) After it came up to temp I was getting 80-150 dg F on my injector bodies. These are rebuild injectors from CDI with a mini moose pump from CDI as well. I'm not sure what to check next. There is still quite a bit of vapor going into the intake thru the brand new CDR at idle...it still does this when the oil cap is removed, which leads me to believe its not operating properly. Shouldn't it keep pressure in the crankcase until a certain level then start venting? Anyone have ideas on what to check next? Is there a way to analyze the exhaust smoke somehow to see whats in it?

 

[Thewespaul]

That’s a lot of variance, I’d do a compression test and see if that’s not your issue there