zf5 issues trans or clutch

[Deezelcaddy]

my 91 5 speed is giving me a little trouble. it is getting progressively harder shifting into 1 and r. i have to steadily push pretty hard at a full stop. the clutch pedal is very stiff but has been since i bought it 6 mos ago. the po said the linkage needed adjusted under the dash but i never did it. i have a mechanic friend that said the clutch is going in the truck but that was prior to this issue. is the trans quickly becoming a boat anchor or are these dying clutch/flywheel issue. truck has 212k and i don't know if it has a single or dual mass flywheel. thanx in advance for the help.

 

[redneckaggie]

does the pedal have slack at the top of its travel? another thing to check is does the firewall flex when pushing on the pedal. If there is slack in the pedal then more than likely the ball joint on the pedal is worn. If the firewall flexes you need a firewall reinforcement kit. You can also try to bleed the system or pump the pedal several times and see if the issue gets better. if it does then that is a tell tale sign that the master or slave is dying on you.

 

[riotwarrior]

Look just above the throttle pedal at the fire wall and wiggle the clutch pedal by hand. You will see a small arm hanging down and a pin and eye on a rod. That pin has to fit nice and snug with a plastic bushing in that rod eye! If that bushing is missing..COMMON issue, then the pin wears the eye out and vice versa so you slowly get less and less ability to engauge clutch correctly.

If it's worn out there is things to do. If the pin and eye are tight, have someone watch the Master cyl when you press the clutch, or have them press it and you watch and see if the fire wall is flexing crazy. That's another problem area and there are fixes for that too.

Thirdly it can be worn cross shaft bushings or worse the cross shaft has worn into the pedal bracket!

Forth...a cracked pedal bracket assembly can cause this too...

Or worse a combination of any of the above 4...ugh

If you look in the tech section I have an article on the fire wall repair that shows lots of info and if you search TECH 101 in title threads by me you'll find out a small thread on arm replacement in cab!

Hope this leads you down the right path.

BTW that plastic bushing bout 5 bucks at napa or HELP section of auto parts stores.

JM2CW

Al

 

[Deezelcaddy]

So it sounds like a clutch issue not a trans issue? If it is not the firewall or master could it be the clutch itself? Fly wheel?My truck has almost no rust and the firewall is very clean I thought the firewall thing was on the 86-88?the po said something about a rod that needed adjusted under the dash? Also my clutch has almost no free play. Thanx again

 

[riotwarrior]

So it sounds like a clutch issue not a trans issue? If it is not the firewall or master could it be the clutch itself? Fly wheel?My truck has almost no rust and the firewall is very clean I thought the firewall thing was on the 86-88?the po said something about a rod that needed adjusted under the dash? Also my clutch has almost no free play. Thanx again

I won't go into what it could be until you report back one what I said above, those are issues that MAKE it feel like a clutch and People have paid HUGE $$$ for new clutches and stuff only to find that it does not fix issue.

So once you tell us all about your clutch master cyl pushrod and the clutch actuating arm and everything then we can go from there.

 

[Deezelcaddy]

Ok I checked the bushings and the push rod bushing was shot. I replaced it and I have noticed some improvement. The cross shaft bushings also have some play in them especially at the pushrod end. My question now I are the cross shaft bushings available and does anyone have a part number. Thanx in advance for the help

 

[riotwarrior]

Ok I checked the bushings and the push rod bushing was shot. I replaced it and I have noticed some improvement. The cross shaft bushings also have some play in them especially at the pushrod end. My question now I are the cross shaft bushings available and does anyone have a part number. Thanx in advance for the help

No idea on bushing part #'s they are available from my STEALERSHIP for about 25 bucks, however if your pedal housing has worn bushings your pedal assembly bracket may well be toast too as seen from these photos!

Check your pedal assembly very very carefuly with a bright light! press clutch pedal by hand while watching for cross shaft movement forward and back. If your pedal assembly bracket is shot you will need to replace it.

Hope these help you with what to look for!

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As I mentioned before, these are usually the issues that plague our trucks...worn pivot pins, eyes, cross shaft bushings, pedal assemblies, and such.

I've dealt with them all.

JM2CW
Al

 

[Deezelcaddy]

Where do I get a bracket?

 

[riotwarrior]

Where do I get a bracket?

Wrecker
LMC
Stealership
Other member here??

 

[redneckaggie]

as long as the pin for the master cylinder eye is not worn bad why not just get an extendable mc rod?

 

[redneckaggie]

Napa # BK 6151187


http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/R...tk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=6151187&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

 

[Oog]

Bushings come in a 5-pack Dorman bubble package at Orielly's.

I think it's called throttle linkage bushing kit? Bought some a few weeks ago.

 

[Deezelcaddy]

Amazon has the complete pedal assembly for a 92 and up for 160 new ford. They also list other ones by part number. I have a late model 91 so according to the dealer I could have either. Is there any easy way to tell the difference? And is there a part number for the 91 and back? $160 is kind of steep but if his is a common problem I imagine most used ones are junk to. It is worth it to me to be done with this part for a while. Also, is removal relatively simple or do I need to take out the dash etc? Thanx in advance

 

[Mulochico]

Look it up on LMC's catalog. It shows a diagram of the parts for both early and later designs. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=39 I got mine thru them and it has worked great for 3+ years now.

When I replaced the bracket (1990) I had to remove the steering column, bracket, etc. Not to bad. Took me a relaxed paced 4-5 hours to do. But I wasn't in a hurry. Probably could get it done in 3-4 if I needed to.

 

[riotwarrior]

Amazon has the complete pedal assembly for a 92 and up for 160 new ford. They also list other ones by part number. I have a late model 91 so according to the dealer I could have either. Is there any easy way to tell the difference? And is there a part number for the 91 and back? $160 is kind of steep but if his is a common problem I imagine most used ones are junk to. It is worth it to me to be done with this part for a while. Also, is removal relatively simple or do I need to take out the dash etc? Thanx in advance

87-91 is year range for your pedal assembly.

In order to remove the pedal assembly, you will need to remove the steering column, and instrument cluster so you can disconnect the speedo cable and pass it through the pedal assembly

The steering column is relatively simple one bolt in engine compartment holding on steering shaft, then inside IIRC two large wire connections, 5 bolts at the floor, then two nuts retaining the column up to pedal bracket assembly carefully remove the column,

Next disconnect the pedal pins from clutch and from the brake pedals, disconnect any vacuum or electrical on brake pedal for brake lights/cruise control.

Now there should be 4 nuts holding the pedal assembly in place, these also hold the vacuum booster in place, undo those and go and pull vacuum booster out a ways to the studs come out of the firewall.

Now you can remove the pedal assembly it may take some finagling and so forth, that should take care of all the parts connected, there may be wires tied or other stuff I'm not aware of in your situation but that should cover the basics of what you need.

Hope this helps.

Al