Would WMO work better if it was pre-heated?

Full Monte

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I've read that using WMO sometimes causes early failure of injectors and injection. I think this may be due to the higher viscosity of WMO compared to the viscosity of diesel. Has anyone tried pre-heating the WMO before it goes into the IP to reduce its viscosity?
 

sassyrel

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only if the wmo aint filtered right!!! better lube qualitys than diesel---ask mel about the precups getting carbon buildup,tho---he said high usage caused it??? thats why when mine gets going again, it WILL have water mist injection, which is the same as steam cleaning the precups and pistons--
 

BioFarmer93

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I've read that using WMO sometimes causes early failure of injectors and injection. I think this may be due to the higher viscosity of WMO compared to the viscosity of diesel. Has anyone tried pre-heating the WMO before it goes into the IP to reduce its viscosity?

Like Sassyrel said, filtering is the most important, but sure, heat reduces the viscosity of any oil. If viscosity is actually the problem, that's easily fixed with dilution. According to whatever the rough average weight of WMO you're using, and the fact that winter is coming on, diluting 20% with ULSD and then mixing in no more than 5% by total volume of RUG will give you a reasonably thin & somewhat hot mix that will work all winter long. I would advise you to mix carefully measured batches outside of the truck, blend & filter well before filling the tank.
 

icanfixall

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My thoughts on heating waste motor oil will not help too much... Most oils these days have a viscosity improver in them... That works best when the oil is heated up. The propertys added to the oil causes the oil to thicken when heated up. So.. Would heating up the waqste oil really thin it or thicken it....:dunno
 

seawalkersee

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The problem of running the wast oil is the ash. With that, it also pumps hard and is hard to start when the temps are below 60ish. I let mine run to 190* tonight and it smokes like the dickens. That is nearly 100% oil in the tank. It IS really thick too as in you can hear the pump bog down when it would start to get the air out of the line. It was worse when I stepped to oil from diesel.

SWS
 

bab029

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Question.

Here in Louisiana, it doesnt really get righteously cold, so would it be reasonable to run mixes of up to say 50% with good filtration in temps down to the 30s? I have a good line on a steady, if smallish supply of used oil...
 

DragRag

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Question.

Here in Louisiana, it doesnt really get righteously cold, so would it be reasonable to run mixes of up to say 50% with good filtration in temps down to the 30s? I have a good line on a steady, if smallish supply of used oil...

You will be just fine doing that, no pre heat needed. I have ran 50-60% waster motor oil for years without issue at all. I have not had to replace injectors on a truck that I have run waste oil on. I don't run over 60% though so i can not comment on heavier mixes or pure wmo usage.
 

seawalkersee

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My thoughts on heating waste motor oil will not help too much... Most oils these days have a viscosity improver in them... That works best when the oil is heated up. The propertys added to the oil causes the oil to thicken when heated up. So.. Would heating up the waqste oil really thin it or thicken it....:dunno[/QUOTE

It seems you hit the nail on the head with this to a point. Thicker does not mean slower. Think of it like some sort of modeling clay. You can freeze it and it is the same thickness but is HARD to move. Heat it in your hands and it moves quickly. Poor analogy but just because the viscosity says "thicker", does not mean "moves slower". That would go agains the laws of physics I think.

SWS
 

Full Monte

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There are some interesting responses here. I guess the bottom line is
a. Will the IP wear better if the oil is heated?
b. Will the spray pattern coming out of the injectors be better with the oil heated or not?
 

WrickM

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my .02 for this convo thicker=lower viscosity, thinner=higher viscosity

Will your IP last longer if the WMO is heated? - Yes. Lower viscosity fuel is easier on the pump. This may not make a HUGE difference as we know IP's can drop out at any time, but it will help.

Do viscosity improvers make oil thicker ie viscosity lower when oil is heated? No. They make the oil "less thin" but they do not lower the viscosity. ie. viscoisty at 50* is 10, viscosity at 180* without and improvers is 3, with improver at 180* viscosity is 5. Not thicker, but certainly less then.

Seawalker take your clay and try and push it through a 1/2" tube at your different temps. Thats the viscosity difference. Your right that the moleculer weight and mass does not change (dramitcally, there is some small expansion when oil is heated) but the maliability i.e. viscosity does and that does affect how quicly it can be moved through a system.
 

FordGuy100

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Agree, it will only help. You dont need to, but heating the oil will thin it out. Regardless of additive, basically all oils will thin out when heated.
 

seawalkersee

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my .02 for this convo thicker=lower viscosity, thinner=higher viscosity

Will your IP last longer if the WMO is heated? - Yes. Lower viscosity fuel is easier on the pump. This may not make a HUGE difference as we know IP's can drop out at any time, but it will help.

Do viscosity improvers make oil thicker ie viscosity lower when oil is heated? No. They make the oil "less thin" but they do not lower the viscosity. ie. viscoisty at 50* is 10, viscosity at 180* without and improvers is 3, with improver at 180* viscosity is 5. Not thicker, but certainly less then.

Seawalker take your clay and try and push it through a 1/2" tube at your different temps. Thats the viscosity difference. Your right that the moleculer weight and mass does not change (dramitcally, there is some small expansion when oil is heated) but the maliability i.e. viscosity does and that does affect how quicly it can be moved through a system.

Yes and no...after the initial "cut" of the clay going through the tube, it will push easier when it is cold because you will be able to push it rather than have it smash...but I digress...

The heat will help it flow smoother and I will get a test set up for cold and hot oil and post it here.

SWS
 

Titojeep

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Don't worry about heating if running 50/50 mix diesel / oil in winter. Just wait for the engine temp to get to normal, and switch to your oil tank. I burn waist hydraulic oil (AW 46) filtered with an absolute 1 micron filter and no problems in cold weather (here in GA). Regardless of what anyone says in terms of life expectancy, I'll quote what another member said as a reponse to a similar question I had when I first came to the forum. "The money you save in fuel just burning a little oil here and there will be enough to put a new fuel system in every 50K miles if you want to". Just to put it in perspective, on our family vacation this year alone, we traveled 1000 miles from GA, to the mountains, to TN, to KY, and back to GA and only bought $63.00 worth of diesel. In the summer I run a 70 / 30 mix of oil to diesel, so that trip alone saved me over $300. Gotta love the IDI's!! IDI till I die!.
 

Alex S

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My thoughts on heating waste motor oil will not help too much... Most oils these days have a viscosity improver in them... That works best when the oil is heated up. The propertys added to the oil causes the oil to thicken when heated up. So.. Would heating up the waqste oil really thin it or thicken it....:dunno


uhhhhh just looking at the oil pressure gauge when an engine is cold vs an engines that's hot will make you think different
 
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