WMO Burner (Part 3)

ut99dot1

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The latest experiment;

Made a custom bracket that goes over the upper coil mount, really sturdy, wont move anywhere
Oil catch can extended a little bit, was bumping against the brake fluid reservoir

The important bit is the shiny metal box, an oil-cooler, I run hot coolant through it (the return line to coolant reservoir) and the WMO.
Gets really toasty after a couple minutes idling, the fuel too. So far seems to work great. I run 50-50 WMO - diesel.
Car starts rougher than on normal diesel, its +- 60F here. Misfires, engine shakes. Normals out after a couple of mins. I increased idle RPM to 1200, seems to help quite a bit.


Question:
- I know a lot of veggie folk run the same cooler which gets the fuel up to 170-180F. Would this cause any issues with the fuel pump? I heard these mechanical pumps dont like being heated that much.


Previous experiments:
1. One tank WMO with electric heater; underestimated (or miscalculated) the heating required, WMO was too cold to be burnt properly. Maybe with a close loop it would work (don't return the fuel to the tank but let it circulate until engine is warm)
2. 2 Tank system. Aliexpress fuel switching solenoids were leaking heavily, and I could never purge the lines to and from the trunk. Everything was always full of air

Cheers
 

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ut99dot1

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A short update. The 50% wmo 50% diesel is THICK. Just as thick as regular motor oil I would say. There's everything in this, from transmission oil to regular motor oil. Not sure what the exact blend is.
Starting car is somewhat harder, rough idle first minutes, never had a problem ever even at 30F.

After it warms up, works perfect, burns cleanly, no weird smell, car rpm is excellent. Only slightly reduced power.
 

Black dawg

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Not sure what kind of oils you are using, but my 50/50 was always pretty light viscosity wise seemed much closer to diesel fuel than oil.

this was mixed stuff, mostly engine oil with atf and gear oil mixed in.
 

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