wmo pump solution?

[EMD_DRIVER]

Already have a tank full of it! My question was wondering why it thins the WMO down so much...

Gary

 

[cranknrods]

JRED- i see that we are talking the same thing here. but im wondering wether or not a drysump pump would work. its made for oil and can be found at some dirt trakers garages. (like my uncles) easily regulated and cleaner install-not that the power steering pump has problems but it just takes alot of space and preperation. but my problem is i (and racing friends) dont know enough about the pump to determine if #2 diesel will hurt it or change the pressure output considerably. im tryin to put a pump system together that a go the distance and allow me to run wvo,wmo and straight #2 withought dire effects.

if the dry sump pump turns out to be a bad idea im gonna hit you up for some good info on that PS pump mod

 

[mankypro]

Hrm, I'm just going to keep some fuel pumps on hand as spares...

Looks like they're $40.00/pc

 

[cranknrods]

emd-from my understanding of hydraulics....
hydro fluid has less viscocity then engine oil due to the fact that engine oil needs to be viscous enough to carry the crank in the bearings while hydro needs to be thin enough to provide quick hydraulic system actuation. thinner fluid is easier for the hydro pump to pump quickly-the quicker the pump moves fluid the quicker the fluid fills the rams. thus, quicker hydraulic actuation. my experience with aircraft fluid may be different then tractors but our fluid had a additive that kept the fluid thin in order to decrease air bubbles in suspension and provide smoother operation. i am quessing that the hydro fluid additive is also trying to thin out the WMO or just the thinner oil is doing it by itself.
our hydro fluid also had some great cleaning additives that kept the inside of the hydro lines spotless. having said that, i would make sure and change (or atleast check) you filters after the first tank.

 

[EMD_DRIVER]

Thanks cranknrods! That explains a lot to me.. I've used the hydro fluid before and had great results with it. That was when I learned that it would thin the WMO very well. I just did not know why.

The fluid I get from this place is clear, with a hint of yellow/green. To look in the barrel, you would swear it was straight #2 diesel. It has the consistency of 10w-30 oil, until I mix it with the WMO. Once mixed, what I have is very thin.

Gary

 

[Ironman03R]

Hydrolic fluid is what I like the best. Next ATF. If I get some I keep it seperate or use it to thin down tractor oil.

I have a PS pump and bractets off a GM 2.5 that I'm gonna put on the other truck. It uses an external resivor so it just has an in and out ports, I'm curious to how much volume it can flow, I thought I heard they push about 50psi.

 

[69dieselfreak]

Thanks cranknrods! That explains a lot to me.. I've used the hydro fluid before and had great results with it. That was when I learned that it would thin the WMO very well. I just did not know why.

The fluid I get from this place is clear, with a hint of yellow/green. To look in the barrel, you would swear it was straight #2 diesel. It has the consistency of 10w-30 oil, until I mix it with the WMO. Once mixed, what I have is very thin.

Gary

are you shure that its not brake fluid

 

[subway]

JRED- i see that we are talking the same thing here. but im wondering wether or not a drysump pump would work. its made for oil and can be found at some dirt trakers garages. (like my uncles) easily regulated and cleaner install-not that the power steering pump has problems but it just takes alot of space and preperation. but my problem is i (and racing friends) dont know enough about the pump to determine if #2 diesel will hurt it or change the pressure output considerably. im tryin to put a pump system together that a go the distance and allow me to run wvo,wmo and straight #2 withought dire effects.

if the dry sump pump turns out to be a bad idea im gonna hit you up for some good info on that PS pump mod

i honestly dont know anything about the dry sump systems you are talking about. this is stepping into all new territory for me, i would be very interested to see how they work and what they are rated for. you might be able to call the manufacturer and ask them themselves if they could be usd also for a fuel pump.

i dont know if i am taking the easy road or hard road with this set up but like mentioned others left me dry not holding up. the carriar might be the easy ticket but i dont have the extra money right now to throw at ANOTHER pump. i guess i figured i would like to go all out for something that should be dead pan reliable and over built for what i want to run through it for cheep.

Ironman- no these things are putting out somewhere in the 1000-1500 psi range for power steering. that is why you need a regulator that can let off the back pressure with a return line so that it never gets near this high.


hydraulic fluid burns great, run it wish i had some just missed a 55 gal barrel of new stuff at work by a day

 

[Ironman03R]

Really? wow, i didnt realise it was that high. I remember a member posting awhile back that they did this and were seeing 50ish at the IP. Maybe running a different pulley to slow it down a bit will help???
I'm no where near ready to start messin with it yet, but I do need to do something before winter.

 

[subway]

yes but he was bleeding of the excess pressure. if the pressure is not bled off it can reach that high until the internal bypass kickes in internally. you can hear it when you turn your wheels all the way to one side and hold it there.

like i said if you let off the pressure it will never get that high, kind of like the bottom end of an engine getting loose, it wont build pressure.

 

[cranknrods]

been learnin alittle bit more about the drysump pumps. it looks like they are manufactured so that they can even be ran dry at times and not get damaged.
if the pump is so beefy that it can be ran dry, i dont see why #2 would do any damage at all-

still researching

i think when my warranty wears out im definatly gonna try this

im also thinkin about having the drysump pump plumbed to run wmo out of the bed tank and leaving the stock setup alone. then having the selector valve after the pumps and before the IP.
this a give me the stock tank with its own filter and pump for #2 diesel and give me a auxillary tank with wmo and its own filter-so if the filter clogs ill just flip the switch to the other system????
im still in the design faz

 

[subway]

crankandrods - thats basically the system i have now and it works well. it is its own seperate fuel system with its own pump, tank, filter etc. the fuel relay switches between the fuel sources right before the injection pump. then there is another fuel relay on the return side doing the same.

that way if i ever have any problems i hit the switch and it defults back to stock running on the stock tanks.