what hoses are these?

[razorback]

ok long story short, bought an 87 f350 6.9 with banks turbo for 350$ only problem it had was that it had a bad voltage regulator or something in that area that caused a small fire. already replaced wiring harness now working on the hoses and such.

i have a few questions, ok it has a racore water separator, the hoses on that were burned, i bought new hoses and replaced those today, now there is what looks to be a small cylinderical pump (looks like a round fuel filter, for ford tauruses pretty much, pic number 1 below) but has 2 wires. looks like its some sort of vacuum motor or pump or something any ideas what that is? how do i rewire it? i cant find it on my wiring diagrams. and there is a hose that comes out from the drivers side right under the brake master cylinder, looks like a fuel hose, (pic #2 below) is that a fuel line? where does it connect to? it has to lead to the passenger side because that was burnt..but where? are there any emissions vac hoses i can remove to clear up the clutter?


pic 1

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pic 2

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[Ironman03R]

Is that an add on fuel pump? See if someone bypassed the stock lift pump.
The other line looks like the return line.

 

[razorback]

i am actually not sure if it is a fuel pump or not. it does suck/blow when hooked up to power. and the hose goes from that, into water separator, to fuel filter then into the fuel rails.. could that burned hose be the fuel supply hose? i saw nothing hooked up to the lift pump, no hose or anything, so im 99.9 percent sure it wasnt in use when the fire was started, is bypassing he lift pump common? it lead to the passenger side where ever it goes..


tomorrow i think im going to hook a pump to the second pic line and see if it is a return or the main fuel line.. i actually think it may be an exterior pump with that one hose being the fuel line..

 

[h2odrx]

the stock water/sep was on the firewall by the booster it then runs to a line down under the engine to the pump then to fuel filter then to injectors then to return line on drivers side of intake. it is very common to bypass the lift pump!

 

[razorback]

well damn they did just extend the main fuel line (it is spliced, dont know if you can tell that from the pic) to the front passenger side to hook it to that pump, which has to be the fuel pump and get it to the racor separator unit.. thats why i couldnt find it in the wiring diagrams. why would they bypass the lift pump and still leave it on there the belt i bought for it is to short..i dont know why, its sthe model that is shown..?

i wonder what other aftermarket stuff they added to this truck.. so far banks turbo, racor and electric fuel pump are what i knw. i was also told it is pretty newly rebuilt.

hopefully it wont be cold tomorrow and i can fix the mess and finish up with this mess.


oh forgot to mention that the vac pump didnt have a belt on it when i got it, did they eliminate that as well? i know it runs to the brake booster..so i didnt think removing it was a good idea?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

You need the vacuum pump, it operates the power brakes booster, but also the HVAC and cruise control - you can convert the brakes to hydroboost and run them off the PS pump, but vacuum is still needed for the other two things, so yeah, throw a belt on that pump.

 

[Ironman03R]

Either replace the factory lift pump OR install a holley pump.

 

[RLDSL]

It just looks like they scavenged an electric pump off whatever car happened to be laying around. If it works, should be ok so long as it wasn't off a fuel injection vehicle in which case the pressure would be WAY to high. Night want to rig a pressure gauge onto the outlet of that thing and hot wire it and see how high it goes.. Nice racor, That thing's worth darn near what you paid for the truck Does it have a filter element in the head as well or is it just a water seperator?

-------Robert

 

[razorback]

the pump works, so i plan on keeping it for now. i had it hooked up a few months ago and it doesnt push air like the EFI pumps ive seen, its probably some orielly/autozone in house brand. i just need to figure out where to wire it into so it only comes on when i have the ignition on. i replumbed the fuel using a hardline. i dont like how they ran the rubber hose over the engine. after i buy new belts and get my new alt, i will see if she starts. im kinda worried its not going to..but i dont see why it wouldnt. then finish getting the pain in the ass wiper motor out and i think i will be done with it. and the racor is just the water separator, no filter was in it. before i cleaned it, it was really dirty. i could of finished it all this weekend (weekend off) but it was cold outside so it was hard to do anything.

 

[razorback]

ok only thing i have left to do before i start it is to wire up the pump. where can i get a relay to hook the electric fuel pump up to? just a basic relay or do i need a specific unit?

 

[RLDSL]

ok only thing i have left to do before i start it is to wire up the pump. where can i get a relay to hook the electric fuel pump up to? just a basic relay or do i need a specific unit?

Plain ol bosch relay does the trick. Run the feed through a circuit breaker or a fuse

 

[razorback]

i actually think i have one that was added on to my rx7 laying around.. ill have to find it tomorrow.

thanks.

 

[Cheaper Jeeper]

i actually think i have one that was added on to my rx7 laying around.. ill have to find it tomorrow.

thanks.

An easy place to tap the activation voltage for your relay would be the power to the fuel cutoff on the IP. It only has power with the key in the run position, and since the ON signal for a relay draws very little power I won't cause any problems.

 

[razorback]

ok it cranks but no start.. not sure what the issue is..air in the lines maybe..

 

[Cheaper Jeeper]

ok it cranks but no start.. not sure what the issue is..air in the lines maybe..

Yeah, if its sat a while that's pretty likely. If your electric pump is working, then run it and let the air out at the schrader valve on top of the fuel filter until you get a good solid flow of fuel there. From that point its just cranking.

Don't forget - 20 seconds cranking then 2 minutes cool down to avoid damaging the starter....