Marks Garage
Registered User
My truck is a 90 C350 7.3 diesel. w/ banks turbo. I am wondering what has to come off to change the valve cover gaskets?
valve cover gaskets
- Thread starter Marks Garage
- Start date
Well if memory serves well, the banks turbo has the cdr from the gear cover adapter to the air filter housing so no problems on the driver side valve cover, now on the pass side you may have to remove the fuel filter and fuel filter braket to get to the VC.
ClassicIDI
Full Access Member
On my truck I had to remove the fuel filter and bracket. For the pass. side also in order to get the cover off you must loosen the driver side motor mount and remove the pass. side nut then jack up the pass side of the engine to get the cover off. The driver side was pretty easy for me I just had to take the air cleaner housing off and remove the GP relay. One last note I would recomend replacing the fuel line o-rings on the filter when you remove the filter housing. On mine they were all cracked and Brittle.
Marks Garage
Registered User
I assume I have to jack the pass side of the engine up so the vcover can clear the heat ac box correct? I looked at it and seems like it would clear.
argve
Resident Fruitcake
Shouldn't have to jack it up - it's a tight squeeze but you can wiggle it in and out.
I got some gaskets from Napa that had little brass rings in around the holes for the cover bolts to go through. Thought that was a pretty neat idea as it keeps you from crushing the gasket - It's very easy to over tighten valve cover gaskets which then causes you to distort the cover then it never seals correctly until you yank it back off and pound it straight again... Don't ask how I know this. I typically always put cover bolts in with a nut driver now so that I don't over torque them. But with the rear cover bolts on these engines with the engine still in the bay it's hard to do with a nut driver so just pay attention to how hard you're twisting on the ratchet. You just want to seat them not muscle them down...
I got some gaskets from Napa that had little brass rings in around the holes for the cover bolts to go through. Thought that was a pretty neat idea as it keeps you from crushing the gasket - It's very easy to over tighten valve cover gaskets which then causes you to distort the cover then it never seals correctly until you yank it back off and pound it straight again... Don't ask how I know this. I typically always put cover bolts in with a nut driver now so that I don't over torque them. But with the rear cover bolts on these engines with the engine still in the bay it's hard to do with a nut driver so just pay attention to how hard you're twisting on the ratchet. You just want to seat them not muscle them down...
aaklingler
Registered User
don't need to take the motor mount apart. Don't need to remove the filter braket, just loosen the bolts until you can get to the valve cover bolt. I did take the filter off, but i don't think you have to.
ClassicIDI
Full Access Member
On my truck I tried for an hour to get the cover off in different positions but in the end it would not clear the a/c box so I had to loosen the motor mount and jack the motor up. In my opinion it was way easier to do with the filter housing and bracket removed for only four more bolts it saves alot of frustration with working around it.
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