Valley Pan or Control Switch LEAK???

[InTheDogHouse]

Hello All,

I have a new leak that appears to be coming from either the rear of the valley pan or what appears to be the "control switch" that threads into the block just behind the CDR. BTW, I have a van, so everything is EASY to access in the rear (but horrible in the middle!).

Does the control switch contact oil on the inside of the block? If so, that might explain the leak and I can just replace the rubber washer on the switch. If it doesn't then the nightmare begins since I assume I'll have to remove the valley pan which includes removing the IP (?).

Shoot, if I gotta do THAT then I may as well get new head gaskets and do the whole top end, eh? Please let me know your thoughts and I'll try to get pics of the leak ASAP.

THANKS DIESEL BRUTHAS!

 

[icanfixall]

If its just the oil pressure switch its easy to fix... But pictures would help us to be sure of whats leaking...

 

[InTheDogHouse]

Rear Engine Pic

See pic. This was a pic of BEFORE the leak began, but shows the sending unit discussed. Is THIS the Oil Pressure Sending Unit??? Thanks.

 

[icanfixall]

Yes... Thats the oil pressure switch. Any auto parts store will have it.

 

[65sixbanger]

Wow that is neat, I wish I could get to back of the motor that easily

 

[InTheDogHouse]

Yeah, grass is always greener, eh? Problem is, I only have about 18 inches of space in the front.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Yeah, grass is always greener, eh? Problem is, I only have about 18 inches of space in the front.

Lol, I was just thinking that...

 

[Agnem]

The "device" will vary depending on the year. Early trucks had "senders" which worked a true (although rather inacurate) gauge, while later trucks have a 7 pound oil presure switch, which in turn provides input to an "analog idot light" which is a gauge designed to take 12 volts, and run it through a fixed resistor to put the needle in the middle of the gauge.

 

[icanfixall]

When replacing the switch don't use pliars and squeeze the aluminum to plastic area. That will damage the sender and it will leak. Sometimes a special socket is needed for this switch. I found that out the hard way years ago.

 

[InTheDogHouse]

Thanks all, got everything resolved. Found out how to convert the oil pressure "idiot" gauge to an ACTUAL measuring guage via a new sender unit from an older year Ford (http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/FordOilPressureGaugeFix.htm) and the removal of a 20ohm resistor.

Found the part at Autozone for $10 bucks, removed the 20ohm resistor and restored the old guage it to it's originally designed purpose - to measure oil pressure! Also put new teflon tape on all the threads and now have NO LEAK with a REAL GAUGE to boot. Happy as a clam.

 

[Agnem]

Yup there you go. I did that mod to all mine as well.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I went for that in the summer, I was on it like white on rice when I found out it can be fixed like that... Then I also found out my gauges cluster won't come off cause my darn speedometer cable won't let it slide out enough to where I can get a hand in here and unclip it...

 

[InTheDogHouse]

Ahh, well I was VERY lucky then, cause my 20ohm resister was simply plugged onto the end of the original plug at the sender. All I had to do was unplug the resistor (about 3 inches of line) and plug in the remaining line. Too easy.

 

[Agnem]

WOW! NEVER heard of that being the case. What year is your truck?

 

[InTheDogHouse]

1987 E350 6.9L NA

I'll take a pic of the 20ohm piece and post later today. Maybe I'm wrong? I didn't notice the guage moving as much as I had expected. It starts at about the "N" position of NORMAL and rises to the "M". Doesn't fluctuate very much when I rev the motor, only when driving from stoplight to stoplight.