Twin I-Beam Alignment issue

Slicknik

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Ok I have a simple question at the bottom , but to understand the question you have to understand the back story unfortunately so here it goes ,


I’m 2wd and I have the twin I-beam front end. A month prior to this weekend I did a compete swap of ball joints and inner/outer tie rods and an alignment with no spacers. (No issues drove as if it just rolled off the show floor )

Alignment shop round 1.......

So I installed a coil spring spacer as well as rotors/pads/brake lines/stock camber bushings, why not do it all at once rt? What could go wrong?...... Then went to the alignment shop. No problem except for I have 3 degrees of positive camber in the front. Alignment shop says I’m maxed out on the +\- 1 degree solid bushings. Drove home , drove fine , after making any kind of turns from lane to street changes, there was minimal effort on my part , steering slop almost didn't exist and My steering would return to center like it suppose to.

Ok so I go out and get another set of camber adjustment bushings these ones supposedly have +/- 4 degrees of camber adjustment.

Round 2 ..........

I return to the alignment shop with the new bushing installed , 2 hrs later they only can get it with 2 degrees of positive camber , manager says they are going to “ re-clock my bushings” (new bushing are 2 pieces in one)
trying to get the truck within factory spec. I say ok, another 2 hrs go by, no luck they only get it within 1.75 degrees. Manager says I need to replace the bushings in the two trailing arm (I believe it’s called), come back and will do the alignment for free and it will be fixed he says. "in the air it's fine but when it sitting on front wheels it's getting pushed out"( his words not mine) . I just wanted to leave at this point

Now the drive home .......

Right alway the steering was off, constant correction, more than 1/8 of a turn of sloop in the steering. After making any sort of left or right hand turn she wouldn’t come back to center. Felt as if I had lost 40% of my power steering ability. Parked it and went on with my day.


So my question is this,

Are my upper ball joints binding with whatever they did to the camber adjustment bushing in the knuckle causing my truck to not steer properly?

With my twin I beam setup I don’t have many choices, my original intent was the level out the truck in the front. Or do I have to go the route of getting the dropped beam kit they sell for 1k+ just so I have suspension geometry correct .....

Photos; soild bushing was round 1 and the insert style Moog bushing was round 2, Fenderwell shot , the truck

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no mufflers

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went through this on my truck. the adjuster you want is the gold looking moog one. i tried the blocks but its just too much lift for the front end to handle. you can get it close but most likely not going to work.

i did my own 2'' lift.

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Clb

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edit Yikes
Brb time to read the wall o text, as I just did my 93..
Bet I need more coffee

I agree the blocks clearly fubared the spring alignment, bet they are a big part of it.
Question, is the shop worth a chitt?
My ttb was badly decambered, I go to the best shop around , say here is my issue....
fix me up , them no sweat.
Go to pick up finished product, still decambered!
Me *** bossman?
Him, oh *****,I did not follow thru on the job! Let me go chew some hinnie..
Boss to me, ok I will get it some adj. Bushes for free...
Come back to a pretty Truck (no decamber) boss happy now.
Stuff happens
 
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Slicknik

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@no mufflers , care to make a post about how to lift a twin I beam front end 2 inches ? Your hood is nuts by the way, I have a trucker wing to match it

Option A , the pivot arm bushing get swapped and the alignment makes everything sound

Option B it doesn't , I swap the bushings again with unmolested ones and turn the spacer down to 1.0" and go back to the alignment shop

@Clb , the shop did a good job on the alignment the first two times , just after re clocking the camber bushings and the manager saying I need to swap the pivot arm bushing my truck seems to bind when turning at the upper ball joint.

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no mufflers

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what it comes down to is all the geometry is off. different caster/camber adjusters will help but not solve the problem.
i went in my own direction to lift the twin I beam, it works, rides good and tires wear decent. easiest would be to get drop brackets for a TTB.

i will post some pictures of my setup.

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no mufflers

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Slicknik

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@no mufflers , what did you do to your I-beams, I can see you modified them, and made your own risers at the coil spring base mount. Drop brackets for the pivot arm . Does the pivot arm need to be longer?

Nice work man ship on that
 

no mufflers

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The I beames I cut and welded in braces to drop them. Radius arms stayed the same, just made the brackets longer. The biggest difference is I modified the I beames instead of using drop brackets to lower the center.
 

Slicknik

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@no mufflers,

yes I can see that , you changed the harder component lol, you gave the beam more curve to compensate for the amount of lift so it would sit somewhat horizontal at the end where the ball joints and camber adjuster are.

I think I'm going to try the other route and make my own drop brackets out of 1/4 or 5/16 steel and see if I like that. I like having the option to go back to stock and try a different route. The ones online you can buy look to flimsy to me and it's probably China metal too

Thank you for your input , for now I'm going to turn down my spacers at least .5" down to where they allow my camber to be reasonable and driveable with no binding at the ball joints
 

Slicknik

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@no mufflers

So I turned my spacer down to 1” and put the stock replacement camber bushing in and replace the radial arm bushings both sides. She is +2 for camber but atleast she isn’t rubbing at the knuckle and Ibeam matting point on the upper ball joint placement,

little 1” lift looks nice and rides a bit stiffer but that’s what I wanted.

This will have to hold for now , thanks again for your input , next for me is to replace my I-beam pivot bushing
 

no mufflers

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Glad you got everything in a better spot. You can and should be able to still use the adjustable caster/camber bushing. That way you can get the alignment pretty perfect.
 
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