Turbo size question...

BioFarmer93

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Does anyone know if the turbo from an IH DT530E is too much, or too slow to spool for a 7.3? Found a good used one for $150+shipping. This would be mounted in a non-traditional location...
 

typ4

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If it is the one on ebay it would be slow to spool and a little big but for that price it may be worth a try, it is wastegated and the exhaust housing could always be changed.
 

BioFarmer93

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If it is the one on ebay it would be slow to spool and a little big but for that price it may be worth a try, it is wastegated and the exhaust housing could always be changed.

Russ- if the exhaust housing was changed- what would that do make it spool a little faster? I'm not trying to build a dragster, but now that the Baby Moose is in I'm making smoke, and that may be cool to some folks but I just see it as incomplete combustion (inefficiency) and a reason for people behind me to try stupid stunts to get in front of me. So the fire needs more air. And yes, it is the one on Ebay- thinking about a remote mount underneath near the exhaust manifolds...
 
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flareside_thun

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Sorry to dig up this old one but a buddy and I were discussing a remote mounted turbo for these trucks and how effective they would be.
 

WrickM

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I think a well done remote mount would be just as good a the traditional turbo location. the traditional mounting still has a lot of exhaust pipe to bend up and over the engine so i don't think you are adding much if any pipe length. the trick is getting a good efficient intake to the turbo that won't clog after your first mud puddle, and determining if it would realy be any cheaper to build than some of the used turbo kits out there. i mean after you buy a turbo fab the intake and exhaust pipes pipes, source the appropriate fittings, figure out how you are goiing to scavenge the oil out of the turbo, buy/make an intake hat you're already talkin about ~$500 (my guess) and a turbo kit can be had for that.
 

bab029

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Sometimes the tinkering is 90% of the project...

Its like the 300 six I had in an old truck....pushing 320 hp or so.... it owuld have been way easier to bolt on a 351 and be over that hp score instantly....but not near as fun (not to mention a way different torque curve...)
 

WrickM

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i agree, just saying. not much of a cost savings, but about the same HP. There always something to be said for a DIY build!
 

93f250idi

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Sometimes the tinkering is 90% of the project...

Its like the 300 six I had in an old truck....pushing 320 hp or so.... it owuld have been way easier to bolt on a 351 and be over that hp score instantly....but not near as fun (not to mention a way different torque curve...)

how you get that much hp out of a 300???
 

BioFarmer93

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I think a well done remote mount would be just as good a the traditional turbo location. the traditional mounting still has a lot of exhaust pipe to bend up and over the engine so i don't think you are adding much if any pipe length. the trick is getting a good efficient intake to the turbo that won't clog after your first mud puddle, and determining if it would realy be any cheaper to build than some of the used turbo kits out there. i mean after you buy a turbo fab the intake and exhaust pipes pipes, source the appropriate fittings, figure out how you are goiing to scavenge the oil out of the turbo, buy/make an intake hat you're already talkin about ~$500 (my guess) and a turbo kit can be had for that.

I'll share my thinking on this with you guys and use the feed back to see if I'm off my rocker or not...

First, heat.. A turbo mounted up in the traditional place puts a lot of heat under the hood, -up pipe, turbo body hot side, down pipe. I would like to move that heat away from the engine bay if possible...

Lost heat- try to minimize heat loss to turbo hot side by decreasing distance from ex. manifold to inlet and insulating any transition fittings. Outlet side- Back pressure minimization by virtue of fewer pipe bends, shorter path and larger diameter tube.

Air intake still at hood scoops, through stand alone filter box then out & down to turbo. Pressurized air routed low because intercooler intake is low, as well as outlet. Route from intercooler outlet yet to be determined- most cold side tube will be flexible polyurethane.

I make no pretense here, I'm learning about these as I go along and I am still unclear on a couple of things... Does the Y pipe still get used, as in all exhaust going through the turbo or is one manifold "tapped" for the turbo and the other manifold's exhaust joins the flow post turbo? Also, how is the oil return managed- is it typically a gravity flow because it's usually mounted high, or is it a pressurized system? Insightful input appreciated...
 

Diesile

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Exhaust pipe to the turbo needs to remain relatively small to keep velocity up and heat
loss down. Look at the short pipes on the psd that feed the turbo from the manifolds.
 

WrickM

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I'll share my thinking on this with you guys and use the feed back to see if I'm off my rocker or not...
let's face it you probably are off your rocker lol

First, heat.. A turbo mounted up in the traditional place puts a lot of heat under the hood, -up pipe, turbo body hot side, down pipe. I would like to move that heat away from the engine bay if possible...
This make minimal difference since the incoming air is or hsould be insulated from engine heat and at 2000+rpms is exposed to engine heat very briefly before being compressed and therefor heated

Lost heat- try to minimize heat loss to turbo hot side by decreasing distance from ex. manifold to inlet and insulating any transition fittings. Outlet side- Back pressure minimization by virtue of fewer pipe bends, shorter path and larger diameter tube.
all good things there. Again, not sure how much improved efficiency you can obtain over the more traditional turbo, but do what you can.

Air intake still at hood scoops, through stand alone filter box then out & down to turbo. Pressurized air routed low because intercooler intake is low, as well as outlet. Route from intercooler outlet yet to be determined- most cold side tube will be flexible polyurethane.
This i would caution you on. a long intake trail can be a big sorce of restriction for your turbo. The lower the pressure atthe turbo inlet the lower the speed at which the turbo veins with begin to cavitate the air greatly decrease in efficiency. do all you can to make air coming into the turbo as easy as possible.

I make no pretense here, I'm learning about these as I go along and I am still unclear on a couple of things... Does the Y pipe still get used, as in all exhaust going through the turbo or is one manifold "tapped" for the turbo and the other manifold's exhaust joins the flow post turbo? Also, how is the oil return managed- is it typically a gravity flow because it's usually mounted high, or is it a pressurized system? Insightful input appreciated...
Both manifolds should be routed directly into the turbo. them ore exhaust gas passing through the turbine housing the better.
 

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