Tuning, Turning, Tweeking the IDI 7.3

[rhkcommander]

these engines aren't hot rods, and i cant tell if its turbo'd reading your signature but since you've got stan headers, 99% chance you don't. A turbo gives a nice boost of performance... Headers, not so much.

For a shot of whiskey, that truck may have quite a few problems too
Might need more than an injection pump Might be a bad pump you put on too, hows the lift pump pressure?

 

[damac]

If you can only move the pump 3/16" from each side of the line up mark you probably just have to yank the inlet fuel line off and crack all the hard lines at the pump. I had that happen once where I didn't feel good about getting leverage on the pump to turn it more advanced.

Not sure what you mean about the holes being the problem, every pump I have seen thus far has big enough adjustment at the pump bracket to swing it each way more than you would need.

Your truck kind of sounds like mine that I timed last week with a timing meter. For whatever reason I am a good chunk advanced passed the line. Also that last dime width nudge ended up clearing up the mild greyish/white smoke I was getting just stomping on it empty going through town.

I also installed clear hoses in the engine bay and a carrier electric pump.

But that clear section of hose would help so you could see after its started and running if air intrusion is sending bubbles to your pump, etc.

 

[Boston]

And I appreciate that Mr Fixitall, cause without the forum to lend a hand I'd never have started it, just left it with the bio-diesel system and called it good enough. Ran it as the POS it was till it died. I knew I'd have assistance if I needed it, and its most appreciated.

on the Pyrometer front
The ferret fitting sounds pretty easy, although it does irk me to have to drill a hole in my brand new headers. Butchered as they already are, someone should be held for war crimes on that one.

The pump only moves about 3/16 to either side of the mark on the block. Period, then it runs out of oblong hole. I started out today with it as far to the passenger side as it would go, ran like two dogs *******. Then I moved it to about 1/16+ to the passenger side, ran like one dog limping. I then moved it to 1/16 to the drivers side, ran a little faster than I can, but blows a lot of unburned fuel through the exhaust system if you get after it. Course that might have happened at any point in the process. I took some of the exhaust system apart to check what kinda soot I was getting and it was soaked with fuel/oil. Lots of unburned fuel. If anything I'd think I needed to turn DOWN the fuel. Remember I'm at altitude, mile high. Denver C0 5,280" elevation and I regularly drive up over the pass, say 10,000 range. I'm a little baffled as to how turning up the pump results in higher temps. Leaning out an engine is what increases temps isn't it? Turning up the fuel should result in cooler exhaust. If someone can explain that one I'd sure appreciate it.

Anyway lots of good info in those last few posts. I'm encouraged by the sound of a light for $40 and would consider installing an EGT sensor. But I've got to prove more power is available before I can really consider spending any more on this thing. Yes it drives the way it is, but hauling anything would be pretty grim and I built this thing to haul lumber back from Missouri to CO.

I'm inclined to want to turn the pump down not up. The reason I might have so much unburned fuel is likely a poor air fuel mix. I'm pretty sure this thing is purely mechanical IE no computer, so adjusting for altitude must involve turning fuel up or down. In this case it seems like down is my best bet.

 

[wmoguy]

And I appreciate that Mr Fixitall, cause without the forum to lend a hand I'd never have started it, just left it with the bio-diesel system and called it good enough. Ran it as the POS it was till it died. I knew I'd have assistance if I needed it, and its most appreciated.

on the Pyrometer front
The ferret fitting sounds pretty easy, although it does irk me to have to drill a hole in my brand new headers. Butchered as they already are, someone should be held for war crimes on that one.

The pump only moves about 3/16 to either side of the mark on the block. Period, then it runs out of oblong hole. I started out today with it as far to the passenger side as it would go, ran like two dogs *******. Then I moved it to about 1/16+ to the passenger side, ran like one dog limping. I then moved it to 1/16 to the drivers side, ran a little faster than I can, but blows a lot of unburned fuel through the exhaust system if you get after it. Course that might have happened at any point in the process. I took some of the exhaust system apart to check what kinda soot I was getting and it was soaked with fuel/oil. Lots of unburned fuel. If anything I'd think I needed to turn DOWN the fuel. Remember I'm at altitude, mile high. Denver C0 5,280" elevation and I regularly drive up over the pass, say 10,000 range. I'm a little baffled as to how turning up the pump results in higher temps. Leaning out an engine is what increases temps isn't it? Turning up the fuel should result in cooler exhaust. If someone can explain that one I'd sure appreciate it.

Anyway lots of good info in those last few posts. I'm encouraged by the sound of a light for $40 and would consider installing an EGT sensor. But I've got to prove more power is available before I can really consider spending any more on this thing. Yes it drives the way it is, but hauling anything would be pretty grim and I built this thing to haul lumber back from Missouri to CO.

I'm inclined to want to turn the pump down not up. The reason I might have so much unburned fuel is likely a poor air fuel mix. I'm pretty sure this thing is purely mechanical IE no computer, so adjusting for altitude must involve turning fuel up or down. In this case it seems like down is my best bet.

Boston: I don't have to much to add other than I think ALOT of these guys forget or don't know what it's like running these at our altitude. Its amazing how much thinner it is up here. When my Wastegate on my 94 went caput on me a month or so ago, I was basically an N/A truck again. It smoked like a freakin pig regardless of how easy I was on the right pedal and heat was a serious issue.
All I'm sayin is, no doubt, this group on here knows their stuff tenfold, but I think some of whats said has to be recalculated for our altitude useage.

final thought: get on icanfixall's timing meter rental list. Again, even more so at our altitude, especially N/A, having that thing properly timed will save you alot of guess work. If you time it right (no pun intended) phazertwo, who is also in Denver, might meet up with you and time his, as it needs done as well.

Oh yea, turn the fuel down, no pyro, no bumpin the fuel. You'll thank me later for reiterating what Heath said on this subject, once you get that pyro in

 

[typ4]

Leaning GASOLINE engines heats them up. Adding fuel to a diesel heats them up.
Please post a list of fuel system components so I cann think about this. Its gonna be something simple.

 

[Boston]

OK let me see if I can go look up what exactly I ordered

CAV6760301 $26.92 8 Injector Delphi abbbcd

8 new BB Delphi injectors

no go on finding the receipt for the IP but its a stanadyn or something like that

WMOGuy, whats N/A mean ?

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

N/A = normally aspirated (or not boosted via turbo or supercharger)

Hang in there Bud: your close to getting your rig right. I would bet you've got a bad IP, a bad set of injectors (were they pop tested before you installed them?) bad fuel, bad timing, or maybe a weak cylinder. I gotta agree with Russ on this: it's something right in front of you, you might just need another set of eyes (or more liquor) to figure it out.

Have you done a compression test yet? Get that out of the way, after that I'd go through the list of suggestions on this board.

Lastly: I completely agree with your assessment of Stan's Headers. You gotta stand behind what you sell, and as the buyer you didn't do anything wrong and they really didn't make it right. That's crappy customer service and should be noted as such in the Hall of Shame.

Hang in there, keep revising your prioritized plan list, then keep working the plan. It will come together, it almost always does

 

[Boston]

"Almost always being the key phrase."

OK I loaded the film of the trucks start and warm up from today. I think this is the final setting on the IP. Not sure about that tho. Might have been in the middle somewhere.

Basically I don't have any budgeted money for buying more crap to tune this engine with. Its either do the best I can with what I got or park the truck and twiddle my thumbs till I have more money. So unless I can find this stuff for maybe a c note or less I'm SOL. Cause I promised my beater to a pregnant friend. So I gotta get this thing done SAP. Ok minus paint trim. But running descent so I can start running loads up in to the hills with it.

I'm also thinking I should turn the fuel DOWN cause of all the unburned fuel in the exhaust pipe. Turning it up would only drown it more I would think, besides if turning UP fuel on a diesel makes it hotter then turning it down cant hurt. I hope.

some film from today

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c262/bostonpyramidbuilder/?action=view&current=DSCN0249.mp4

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c262/bostonpyramidbuilder/?action=view&current=DSCN0256.mp4

 

[Boston]

Ok so today I'm off to go turn down the fuel knob on that thing.

I'll post another film of it revving and maybe we can see a difference in whats happening. Then maybe a test spin.

 

[redneckaggie]

static timing should be good enough for a new pump to run at a usable spot till timed. static timing is 1/8-1/4 to the passenger side of the truck. just use the lines where the ip bolts to the housing.

to alter timing is easy. advance is rotate the pump to the pass side to to retard go to the drivers side. remember to tighten all 3 mounting bolts.

when changing an ip do not remove the ip housing without removing the front timing cover too so you can properly time, removing only the pump is fine for most pump swaps.

the fuel shut off solinoid (fss) is located on top of the ip. its the terminal thats larger than a standard spade connector. i bent a s tandard spade out to fit it then crimped it on with vicegrips.

now the other terminal on the side of the ip is the cold timing advance this will hook to a coolant temp sensor in the drivers head. this advances the timing to keep the motor running when cold.

the fuel screw is located under a plate on the passenger side of the ip. remove the throttle linkage and youll see a triangular plate with 2 small bolts its under there. when the plate is off and motor at tdc you should see the scrrew its a small allen head sunk into a hole in the rotor. out gets you more fuel in less.

Actually clockwise rotation(turning screw in) increases fuel, counterclockwise rotation(turning screw out decreases fuel)

you cannot do this while the motor is running because it turns as the motor does, also it holds fuel in there and that will dump out. 2 flats without a pyro is not going to hurt anything on a stock pump but can you trust your builder to put it all back to stock.

not so sure about that one I could make mine touch 1100 stock when loaded up, if you are one of those people that drive a truck because you think its cool and the heaviest thing you pull is a 12 ft flatbottom boat then maybe

torque screw is located bottom back of ip. this is only on newer models but your reman may have it. it will increase torque when turned in (iirc)

not 100% certain but I beleive the torque screw would be the one that is higher up on the back of the ip if there is two, only increases torque if you have the air to burn that extra fuel that it injects down low

for a pyrometer (egt gauge) the highest you want to go is about 1000 -1200 degreese f.
anything over has a good chance of causing damage. mounting the pyro is key. the best spot is by the back cylinder in the manifold but on the y pipe works too. if you have a turbo pre turbo is a good spot.

and a pyro tip to check the pyro use a temp gun. that will let you know if the pyro is close.

now wvo wmo etc. can cause more drastic issues with a new pump if timing is slightly off you will know it due to burning differences with the fuels.

when you swap pumps make sure to fully bleed the air out of the fuel system. when i swapped mine i put fuel in the fuel screw cover and then put it on then hit the bleader on the fuel filter till she fired and keept it in till i had a steady stream only about 45 sec of cranking total that way. then i reved her till the miss stopped and then i had fuel to all cylinders and was satisfied.

also the pumps on these trucks are lubed by the fuel so make sure to add something to keep them lubed since ulsd sucks. i use lucas and have heard about all the diesel treatments out there will work.

this is all ive compiled about the tuning of a pump and is to be taken as you wish but it is generally taken as turth

just a few corrections

To the op chill out slow down and read what is being said I dont think you have absorbed a single thing that has been said and you are all over the place in your responses

dont know if any of this has already been stated because I cant stand to read it

A hand held pyro will do you NO GOOD because the egts only get out of control when driving, You will only have to drill a hole in your headers and insert a probe, this gauge is extremely important because it lets you know what your egts are like which are feedback on how much fuel you can add.

Timing should not be that critical for it to be far enough off to cause severe lack of power you would have serious starting problems, and crazy smoke before that happened

how is your lift pump doin, have you ever owned a diesel before because black pipes are normal and a visible black haze out of the exhuast is fairly normal but not a cloud of black.

 

[redneckaggie]

Watched the video how heavy is your wmo cocktail, how well was it filtered, any way you can put it on straight diesel and check it then. I would say you need more advance just judgin by the smoke but that could also be the wmo

 

[Boston]

its running on the "clean" tank of diesel now. Was in the video as well. So although there's probably some WMO contamination its mostly diesel. The WMO was filtered down to about 1m but not centrifuged

I've got a centrifuge but it came pre screwed up and I've not had time to send it back yet.

 

[icanfixall]

Thats a nice sounding engine right there. Turn down the fuel and I bet its going to be fine. I don't hear a miss or knock or anything but a good sounding engine. Maybe you have some bad valve seals or guides but thats all I can see from what you posted here. And thanks for the viedos. They are a great help to me...

 

[Black dawg]

why are we turning the fuel down, I thought the thing was sackless? What does that smoke smell like?

 

[Boston]

Thanks guys, I put a lot of time into cleaning the old bird up and I think if I take care of it right it should last basically forever.

I'm thinking I'll run primarily on motor oil in the winter, blended with some Kerosene and mostly veggie oil in the summer, also blended with a little Kerosene.

I didn't make it out there today but tomorrow is supposed to be nice so I'll hopefully have film at 11:00

Dawg I'm turning it down cause I'm at 5280' and its blowing unburned fuel out the exhaust, I'm pretty sure I'm drowning it. I can time it all over the place and its doesn't seem to give it much power, just lots of unburned fuel.