Truck runs like crap when hot and mpg's suck

[brockr]

Truck starts and runs great till it gets warm. than it runs rough. (like its missing) rebuilt the IPR had to replace the CPU (thanks superchips) and still nothing fixes it. I'm getting no codes

97 cc 4x4 f-350 114,000miles

 

[Mike]

When was the last fuel filter change, air filter and oil filter and what type of oil?

 

[brockr]

Changed oil, filter and oil in high pressure oil reservoir 2 weeks ago when I rebuilt the IPR (o-ring kit) Delo 400 oil was used. Air filter is new and fuel filter is also (see leaking fuel everywhere)

 

[Mike]

VC connectors look OK? Have you buzz tested the injectors?

 

[brockr]

yes conectors look good no idea how to do a buzz test and don't have a tool (if it requres one) to test.

 

[JLDickmon]

Truck starts and runs great till it gets warm. than it runs rough. (like its missing) rebuilt the IPR had to replace the CPU (thanks superchips) and still nothing fixes it. I'm getting no codes

97 cc 4x4 f-350 114,000miles

when it started running bad, was it running the same before you did this work?

what kind of code reader are you using? Is it PSD compatible?

 

[brockr]

It was running bad when I bought it. Bought it from a friend and it's had he crappy idle when hot for a year now. It seems to run fine above idle. The shop that replaced the ecu read the codes as did the trans shop I took it to 1st since it was shifting hard after I put in the superchip and that damaged the ecu which in turn made the hard shifts.

 

[brockr]

The problem started when my friend that I bought it from took it to the furd stealer and had the oil galley resealed. had a small leak in the pass. side oil galley so the resealed it and he said that the next day when he fired it up that is started fine but after it warmed runs like now (crappy) @ idle. Ford told him that it was unrelated and he never got it fixed.

 

[tonkadoctor]

Starting and running good cold but running like crap when hot could be bad injectors too.

Check the UVC harness and make sure it isn't fried and then you may want to head for the stealership to get the injectors tested and diagnostics run.

Costs about $80 for the dealer to do the diagnostics but that $80 could save you a bunch in time and $$$ by not making a crap shoot out of tossing these high dollar parts at it and hoping for the best.

 

[brockr]

Yeah the uvch was next (onder the valve cover) smelled no burnt wires unpluging the conector has same efect on all 4 plugs. I talked to the stealership and they said $190 just to hook it up! This is the same dealer I took it to for the cps droped off @ 6am for my 730am apt. got a call @ 1000am saying they where out of cps's (made the appt specificly to avoid that) told them to use the one in the glovebox and get me a replacment. showed back up @ 430pm and they had not even moved the truck from where I droped it off. 1.5 hr later I was out the door pissed off

next closest ford stealed is 50 miles away, and not much better. I'm getting a bad tast for ford dealers! :***:

We have a few good diesel shops in town, what code reader would they need to read all the factory codes?

 

[DZL JIM]

Any update to this problem?
I've run into this a lot over the last few months. Everything points to the injectors, but the ones I had were all within spec, and looked great, but truck runs like crap when warm.

Thanks.

 

[JLDickmon]

Yeah the uvch was next (onder the valve cover) smelled no burnt wires unpluging the conector has same efect on all 4 plugs. I talked to the stealership and they said $190 just to hook it up! This is the same dealer I took it to for the cps droped off @ 6am for my 730am apt. got a call @ 1000am saying they where out of cps's (made the appt specificly to avoid that) told them to use the one in the glovebox and get me a replacment. showed back up @ 430pm and they had not even moved the truck from where I droped it off. 1.5 hr later I was out the door pissed off

next closest ford stealed is 50 miles away, and not much better. I'm getting a bad tast for ford dealers! :***:

We have a few good diesel shops in town, what code reader would they need to read all the factory codes?

If you have an issue with your local dealer, leave it there. I'm a tech by trade, and a tad sensitive to those comments.

Now, on to the questions.

You're going to need some type of manufacturer-specific scan tool, Snap-On brick, or a MODIS (might be able to pick up a good used brick fairly cheap); OTC Genisys/Interrogator/Mentor; a lot of guys use Auto-Engineuity PC based setup... not that you have to run out and buy one yourself, but you need to find someone that has one. The $50-$200 code readers that AutoZone uses and sells, read "gloabal" or generic codes only.

If you have a good diesel shop handy, they have one. Just take it over there. Be up front with them, and tell them you'd like to do it yourself if you can. Give them all the information you've given us. Bought it like that, have done X, Y, & Z to it...

I think it'd be worth pulling the valve covers off before you take it over there and looking for loose connections, burnt or broken connectors, etc.

 

[brockr]

Harness was burnt on 5 and 7 couldn't see it but after replacing runs much better. Still has a slight miss when hot but not nearly as bad. I think I need to do something w/ the injectors rebuild or replace.

 

[DZL JIM]

brockr,
Thanks for the response, we'll see if that helps.

The Bear,
Unless he was venting about your particular place of employment, don't get your tighty-whiteys in a ***.
I know nobody likes to have their profession dissed, but it's the same here. There are 4 or 5 Ford dealers with 20 minutes of me that I will NOT take my truck (or car, or anything) back to, and the only one trust worthy enough is about 30 miles away. There are, however, 2 or 3 diesel specific shops that do great work.
I'm not sure why it is that Ford dealers get such a bad rap. I know they have to follow procedures, but when a diesel shop does such a better job and costs a lot less, why go back to Ford?
Hopefully your one of the guys that knows what he's doing, and works at a dealer that diesel guys like to go back to.

 

[JLDickmon]

brockr,
Thanks for the response, we'll see if that helps.

The Bear,
Unless he was venting about your particular place of employment, don't get your tighty-whiteys in a ***.
I know nobody likes to have their profession dissed, but it's the same here. There are 4 or 5 Ford dealers with 20 minutes of me that I will NOT take my truck (or car, or anything) back to, and the only one trust worthy enough is about 30 miles away. There are, however, 2 or 3 diesel specific shops that do great work.
I'm not sure why it is that Ford dealers get such a bad rap. I know they have to follow procedures, but when a diesel shop does such a better job and costs a lot less, why go back to Ford?
Hopefully your one of the guys that knows what he's doing, and works at a dealer that diesel guys like to go back to.

that was kinda my point.

his dealer cheesed him off over the CPS recall and he has the right to be upset over the lost day, and especially so if it was the same one that blew his buddy off over a year ago... you'd think in this day and age when there ain't just everybody looking to spend money, they'd be a little more oriented to how many are sitting in the bays... you don't make anything on a truck that isn't there.

they resealed an oil galley, and that is when it started to run bad.. so they had a choice; blow the guy off, of get it back there and tell him, "...we touched this, that, and this other thing. We didn't touch anything over here, or over there. Here's what we've been seeing on those with these symptoms, would you like us to check it out?"

Gives the customer the power and the choice over what to do. He's the one spending the money on it.

And actually, I work in an chain shop for one of the more well known rubber manufacturers. We'll work on most anything up to 1-ton series, including railroad applications. I might be putting a timing belt on a Geo Metro one day, and changing an injector pump on a GM 6.5L the next.