do yourself a favor.
before you ruin the motor beyond repair, sell the truck or get a loan and tow it to a shop who can get it running for you.
you may "know it all" but you are committing mistakes that are potentially fatal to the motor.
DO NOT USE DEGREASER ON THE MOTOR. ESPECIALLY ANYWHERE NEAR THE INJECTION PUMP.
the intake valley where the pump is at, has a CDR system where the grommet that seals the intake valley pan is often dried and cracked. What does this mean to you? If you put water into that area, the water will drain into the crankcase. Yes, you are reading that right. You will fill up the your crankcase with water.
IF YOU STILL INSIST ON ATTEMPTING TO FIX THIS TRUCK.....
STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING. PUT DOWN ANY/ALL TOOLS.....
GO TO THE TECH ARTICLES IN THE IDI SECTION AND START READING.
this will take a few days to read. do not come back until you are done reading.
x2
i;m talking where those damn lines are at or i can dry rag and wipe as much grime off as possible
Wiping the grime and oil away is better than degreaser and water.
OK LET ME EXPLAIN SOMETHING REAL CLEAR NOW!!! STOP YELLING AT ME!!! It's great your leaving comments and what not BUT STOP YELLING!!!!!!!!!!
First off, I have been in your shoes and nobody is yelling at you. We are trying to explain that what you are wanting to do is no easy task. SEVERE damage can result from inexperience or lack of knowledge on these engines. SLOW DOWN and "take in" the information in front of you before you jump to the next question. Take a break from the wrench turning before you drive yourself nuts (as well as others). Spend a day or two just reading and researching. When you get so focused on a task, you overlook the small things that can be the real issue. I did it trying to get my CC running. Spent days trying this and that, retimed the IP gear twice, and was ready to give up when I found the melted wire causing the problem (Towcat, punkmechanic, and typ4 probabally started crying everytime their phone rang and my number was on the caller ID...
).
I'll give you the advice given to me ... Take some time and read the Tech Articles. That is why there are here. They contain a lot of information and can save a lot of time by answering your questions before you even ask them.
Not many read the articles before they start posting. I'm not saying that you aren't capable of performing the task of timing an engine, but you need to spend some time researching the task before diving head first into it. With nobody there to see what you are doing and what is going on with the engine, it makes it hard to explain how to put it back together once you tear into it. Read, learn, and most importantly UNDERSTAND what you are about it do or doing. My current truck is my 4th IDI, and I'm still learning something new almost everytime I start reading the threads.
Last thing any of us want to see is a thread labeled "ENGINE %&CKED UP" or "I MESSED UP".
I know my engine is dirty, but it runs so I leave it alone. Here are some pics of the IP timing marks. Keep in mind, the bolts in the pics of the oil fill tube only need to be removed if replacing the pump or checking the timing of the IP gear. DO NOT remove the IP housing and/or gear inside (attached to the IP) unless you are fully aware of what you are doing or willing to accept that you could really mess the timing up. The timing marks on the IP are "factory" timing marks and used as a "baseline" adjustment until you can time it with a meter. If the gear inside is off, these marks won't do you much good. There are three 9/16" nuts that hold that IP from turning side to side. You will have to loosen these to change the IP timing. Again, DO NOT attempt this unless you feel you are ready for this and willing to accept the outcome of trying.
