Tricks for removing steering wheel?

MtnHaul

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My stiff and clunky steering seems to be rooted in the steering column but now the wrinkle is removing the steering wheel. I bought a puller and some bolts to thread into the two small holes at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions on the steering wheel but while attempting to remove the wheel the bolts just pulled right out of the threads. There's a saying in Ireland "There's nothing bad that can't be made worse."

Soooo, any awesome steering wheel removal tricks out there? I've soaked the splined area with PB Blaster and tried to wiggle it loose but she ain't givin' an inch. I know the steering column has been replaced once already by a PO. If I can't remove the steering wheel then what's the next step/worst case scenario?

I wouldn't be half as frustrated with this if the problem was something like the transmission or engine, at least those I would expect to be a bit of a PITA--but the steering column?
 

Cubey

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A slide hammer might work. You can rent one for free from O'Reilly. That plus a free rental jaw grabber that'll attach to it.
 

Austin86250

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when i replaced my ignition actuator about a month ago i used the wrong thread size by accident and when i realized it was to late so i just cross threaded it all the way did not work
any ways an old time mechanic laughed at me for even using a puller you just thread the nut on to where its flush with the shaft and whack the center of the column shaft with a hammer while pulling as ******* the steering as you can worked like a charm i have used that method about ten times no i have not caused any damage a lot easier and less hassle than a puller anyways

worse case scenario you have to get a new or new to you column really easy swap if you have a manual kind of a pita if you have an out with the shift linkage under the hood
 

MtnHaul

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I will definitely try the hammer method in the morning. I just love the two hammer method for removing the drag link from the pitman arm. Sometimes you need more cowbell and sometimes you need more hammer.
 

captain720

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I made a custom puller from some old exhaust manifold brackets and use a bolt/nut to put pressure on the splined unit and just thread bolts into the holes. If you can retap the holes bigger it might be salvageable. Also try wrapping your bolts in thin copper wire and forcing it into the stripped threads
 

gnathv

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Put your knee under lower steering wheel and apply upward pressure. Grab the top of wheel and pull up. Hit center (with nut at top of threads to protect shaft threads) nut with heavy hammer, should pop loose.
 

MtnHaul

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Managed to pull the wheel off with lots of shaking and parts blaster. Tried the hammer method but no joy there. Now the search for a column locally or pony up for the internet rebuilders. All the salvage databases I've checked came up with nada so far. I either need a parts runner or a parts truck--this is getting ridiculous being held up by a steering column.
 

Austin86250

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the hammer method works but you have to pull hard and hit hard not just tap dont be afraid to break it next time
 

MtnHaul

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the hammer method works but you have to pull hard and hit hard not just tap dont be afraid to break it next time
I hit it pretty hard with a 3lb mini sledge while putting pressure with my knees and pulling with my free hand but no luck. Bracing my feet on the floorboard while leveraging my 260lbs to pull and shake the wheel did it though.
 

MtnHaul

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Local auto dismantler can order a used steering column for $350 or I can order an alleged rebuilt unit for $500+shipping. 350 seems like a lot for a used part of unknown quality. Opinions?
 

gnathv

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We’re you able to check the bearings. When I did mine I think the parts were $40 and took a couple of hours.
 

Big Bart

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Local auto dismantler can order a used steering column for $350 or I can order an alleged rebuilt unit for $500+shipping. 350 seems like a lot for a used part of unknown quality. Opinions?


Both seem a little pricey. But to your point a rebuilt is the safer bet and likely to last longer.

Did you give some thought to what TNBrett said? Could you have a clogged high pressure or return line PS line. I was thinking the same thing. Maybe blow out the lines and test before you drop $500. Seems like you cannot feel much friction holding up the steering column. Might be worth a try to blow out the ps lines. I would unhook both ends before blowing out, you would not want to blow junk into the pump or steering box.
 

MtnHaul

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Could you have a clogged high pressure or return line PS line.
The return line seemed to flow pretty good when I was flushing the old fluid out but I probably should check that high pressure hose. If there were a clog would that cause fluid to heat up in the pump? The old fluid didn't look too bad for ~40k miles.
 

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