Water pump RTV on the housing, stick the gasket to it, and leave the gasket dry on the side that goes to the engine. keeps the gasket in place and it shouldn't leak. Makes it easier to clean off later too.
Traveller Smurf (Cubey's '89 van)
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
Water pump RTV on the housing, stick the gasket to it, and leave the gasket dry on the side that goes to the engine. keeps the gasket in place and it shouldn't leak. Makes it easier to clean off later too.
I took the van to Yuma this weekend for a VW event, pulling the bug. Temps seem ok, and I heard the thermostat click closed promptly after getting back, shutting it down, and opening the hood. Stayed under 200F during an 80F day today, 45-55mph on the highway, with some wind.
I opened the hood to eyeball the overflow bottle as well as inspect the P/S belt. The belt is squealing from being loose, I guess. It likes to do it at higher RPMs, especially when the belt is cooler from sitting. It's not crazy loose, but I guess it's just loose enough to complain. As the engine winds up for an upshift, a faint squeal does too. As soon as the upshift happens, the squeal stops. Does it for each gear. This morning first thing, it was LOUD. P/S fluid level is fine, and there's no loss of P/S.
So, I'll see about tightening the belt before too long.
I opened the hood to eyeball the overflow bottle as well as inspect the P/S belt. The belt is squealing from being loose, I guess. It likes to do it at higher RPMs, especially when the belt is cooler from sitting. It's not crazy loose, but I guess it's just loose enough to complain. As the engine winds up for an upshift, a faint squeal does too. As soon as the upshift happens, the squeal stops. Does it for each gear. This morning first thing, it was LOUD. P/S fluid level is fine, and there's no loss of P/S.
So, I'll see about tightening the belt before too long.
Had a warm, cloudy, calm wind afternoon to do the rear shocks.
Check this out. The old ones were standard Monroe Gas Magnum 34901. They still sell under that part number. Well, I got the (presumably) better Gas-Magnum RV shocks with a different #. The old ones were bigger around and generally built heavier. The new ones still say Made in USA same as old. The new ones are better for installing with the welded nut on the shaft, no need to use a strap wrench or something to hold it still.
Thankfully they had the blue plastic band and it was perfect for fitting on the vehicle before cutting it. The fronts (further cost cut, black paint) didn't have the bands, so I had to use ratcheting strap to compress and hold them.
Left one was driver side, completely shot. Right side wasn't much better, despite it's extended appearance. It was very slow and sticky.
Check this out. The old ones were standard Monroe Gas Magnum 34901. They still sell under that part number. Well, I got the (presumably) better Gas-Magnum RV shocks with a different #. The old ones were bigger around and generally built heavier. The new ones still say Made in USA same as old. The new ones are better for installing with the welded nut on the shaft, no need to use a strap wrench or something to hold it still.
Thankfully they had the blue plastic band and it was perfect for fitting on the vehicle before cutting it. The fronts (further cost cut, black paint) didn't have the bands, so I had to use ratcheting strap to compress and hold them.
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Left one was driver side, completely shot. Right side wasn't much better, despite it's extended appearance. It was very slow and sticky.
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Well gee, no wonder the return line has been leaking, the hose looks like it's about to fall off the hose barb.
It's hiding under the glow plug controller and mounting bracket. Fun.
I think that's the one and only bolt that holds the mounting plate on? Maybe there's another I couldn't see. Anybody here have a picture of an early 6.9/7.3 Banks kit, with that 7.3 style GPC relocation bracket?
Gonna try to get that one bit of hose replaced on Sunday, after the 40-45mph winds are done after tomorrow and Saturday. Nothing else is leaking, so I'm not going to fix what isn't broken.
Edit: Ha, he "stole" the Banks van specific kit bracket design!
Actually nah. I'm guessing he had no idea that bracket was a thing, being specific to vans only, I bet.. and just came up with the same exact idea that Banks did in the 1980s without prior knowledge of it. Unless he in fact run across a kit with the bracket and cloned it. (not calling him out, just a funny observation)
So, it's probably two bolts like on his bracket. I'll just have to look closer at the bracket I have.
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It's hiding under the glow plug controller and mounting bracket. Fun.
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I think that's the one and only bolt that holds the mounting plate on? Maybe there's another I couldn't see. Anybody here have a picture of an early 6.9/7.3 Banks kit, with that 7.3 style GPC relocation bracket?
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Gonna try to get that one bit of hose replaced on Sunday, after the 40-45mph winds are done after tomorrow and Saturday. Nothing else is leaking, so I'm not going to fix what isn't broken.
Edit: Ha, he "stole" the Banks van specific kit bracket design!
7.3 IDI Glowplug Controller Remote Mount Bracket
Remote mount your 7.3 glow plug controller with our bracket, mounting off the intake manifold this will keep your glow plug controller away from heat and in the appropriate location to use our factory turbo glow plug harness.
classicdieseldesigns.com
Actually nah. I'm guessing he had no idea that bracket was a thing, being specific to vans only, I bet.. and just came up with the same exact idea that Banks did in the 1980s without prior knowledge of it. Unless he in fact run across a kit with the bracket and cloned it. (not calling him out, just a funny observation)
So, it's probably two bolts like on his bracket. I'll just have to look closer at the bracket I have.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Nope. Trucks have them too. That's why I have one for mine. Not that I need it, but it came with the engine and turbo set up.
It's supposed to be two bolts.
I'm debating just removing the GPC and bending the bracket upward a couple inches so that I can get in there to replace that one piece of hose with the aid of needle nose pliers. Depends on how difficult the intake manifold bolts are to remove, I suppose. The bracket feels pretty flexible.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I've never tried it. It just might work.
It's directly under the bracket, so it probably would work for a quick repair.
If I were to replace the o-rings, I'd probably have to remove the bracket. The RV with it's 6.9 GP setup meant nothing was in the way in this area.
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Oh, it's only 24ft lbs for the intake manifold bolts. Those should be easy enough to remove.
I'm guessing it won't hurt to remove just those two bolts as far as the pressure put on manifold/gasket? Should be the ones upper right marked "3 4".
No water or oil jacket involved where the bolts go to worry about sealing?
Image source: https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/engine/7-3-idi-torque-specs-and-bolt-dimensions-with-images/
I'm guessing it won't hurt to remove just those two bolts as far as the pressure put on manifold/gasket? Should be the ones upper right marked "3 4".
No water or oil jacket involved where the bolts go to worry about sealing?
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Image source: https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/engine/7-3-idi-torque-specs-and-bolt-dimensions-with-images/
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The 6.9s have water ports that are sealed by the intake gasket, but the 7.3 have plugs in those ports. You'll be fine. When that bracket was installed, I'm guessing that only those two bolts were removed and then reinstalled. It's possible that they may not have been torqued.
Rocknit4x4
Full Access Member
I’ve removed mine a few times on a 7.3, no issues so far.
Oh that's true, being a kit. Well I'll see about removing the bolts then first, before I resort to bending the bracket.
Got the hose replaced. I just bent the bracket up to gain access. The glow plug controller had to be completely removed.
Had to go buy this 45° tool to deal with the pinch clamps.
But funnily enough, I don't think that's what was leak. There was a makeshift plug stubby piece of hose with a bolt in it, hiding there. And it was mushy. I noticed because the worm gear clamp was loose. Tightened the clamp and pulled on the hose. So I replaced that too.
Oh and it has 1/4" hose, so someone put newer caps on it. Wasted $3.50 on 1ft of 3/16" hose when I was buying the tool. Thankfully I had an old scrap bit of 1/4" hose handy.
That's usually the crossover but I'm guessing it melts from being too close to the turbo manifold/up pipe. It's crossing over behind the alternator and running way around the top of the engine to reach the LH side of the engine where the return lines all tie in.
All put back and I didn't see any leaks, so hopefully it'll be good for a while now.
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Had to go buy this 45° tool to deal with the pinch clamps.
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But funnily enough, I don't think that's what was leak. There was a makeshift plug stubby piece of hose with a bolt in it, hiding there. And it was mushy. I noticed because the worm gear clamp was loose. Tightened the clamp and pulled on the hose. So I replaced that too.
Oh and it has 1/4" hose, so someone put newer caps on it. Wasted $3.50 on 1ft of 3/16" hose when I was buying the tool. Thankfully I had an old scrap bit of 1/4" hose handy.
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That's usually the crossover but I'm guessing it melts from being too close to the turbo manifold/up pipe. It's crossing over behind the alternator and running way around the top of the engine to reach the LH side of the engine where the return lines all tie in.
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All put back and I didn't see any leaks, so hopefully it'll be good for a while now.
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I need some air conditioning. Any air conditioning. The Hessaire swamp cooler was good in the motorhome due to having room to store it out of the way and having more water capacity, but it's not practical in this van. I left it at my mom's house. I paid $100 for a tiny (normally $300!) 12v swamp cooler this past winter and it does help a tiny bit but again it needs water constantly.
I don't even have dash AC since the compressor is gone and the condenser is plumbed as the AT cooler.
I have 500W solar on the roof, 300AH (at 12V) of lithium battery capacity, plus an extra 100W folding panel and 25AH "solar generator", so I decided to order this tiny 2000 BTU portable air conditioner. 280W and runs on 120v, but I do have a 700W (1400W peak) inverter so I can easily run it, and more. If you look down in the smaller print under the price, it's $300. Yeah that's almost twice what a 5000 btu window unit costs, but the form factor and size makes it easy to use and store in a van. It uses an exhaust hose, so I can vent it out a window. I don't have to spend $500-700 on upgrading my solar/battery/inverter setup to support 5000 btu.
If I wire up a cheapo modified sine inverter I already have to the starting batteries (via a high amp isolator solenoid that's there), I can have AC when driving, without pulling on the solar/house batteries. 2000 BTU is better than my current 0 BTU.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D1QJP89H/
I don't even have dash AC since the compressor is gone and the condenser is plumbed as the AT cooler.
I have 500W solar on the roof, 300AH (at 12V) of lithium battery capacity, plus an extra 100W folding panel and 25AH "solar generator", so I decided to order this tiny 2000 BTU portable air conditioner. 280W and runs on 120v, but I do have a 700W (1400W peak) inverter so I can easily run it, and more. If you look down in the smaller print under the price, it's $300. Yeah that's almost twice what a 5000 btu window unit costs, but the form factor and size makes it easy to use and store in a van. It uses an exhaust hose, so I can vent it out a window. I don't have to spend $500-700 on upgrading my solar/battery/inverter setup to support 5000 btu.
If I wire up a cheapo modified sine inverter I already have to the starting batteries (via a high amp isolator solenoid that's there), I can have AC when driving, without pulling on the solar/house batteries. 2000 BTU is better than my current 0 BTU.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D1QJP89H/
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The AC was crap. Sent it back. Got an $80 swamp cooler that is 1/3 the size of the one I used in the RV. It's about as effective as the AC was and uses 1/4 the power.
I might revisit having an air conditioner in the future, maybe remove a window from a back door and have a 5000 btu window unit, if I decide to put more panels on the van, maybe over the big side window that doesn't open, on hinged brackets, so they can be tilted.
Also finally put in the trans temp sender. It must have bottomed out in the transmission, since it's not seated against it.. But it got tight. I didn't go nuts tightening but it seems good. It's not leaking, despite holding a good bit of ATF behind it. I didn't lose much, since I quickly stuck it in after the plug was removed. I'll keep an eye on it for leaks, but this picture is after an hour and a half of it being installed, and no leaks. I should have probably put a washer or two on it to keep it from bottoming out, but I didn't even think about that.
Still gotta wire it up, but I'll see about that next week probably. So maybe I'll take it back out and put a couple of washers on it then.
Is the test port temperature similar to pan temperature?
I might revisit having an air conditioner in the future, maybe remove a window from a back door and have a 5000 btu window unit, if I decide to put more panels on the van, maybe over the big side window that doesn't open, on hinged brackets, so they can be tilted.
Also finally put in the trans temp sender. It must have bottomed out in the transmission, since it's not seated against it.. But it got tight. I didn't go nuts tightening but it seems good. It's not leaking, despite holding a good bit of ATF behind it. I didn't lose much, since I quickly stuck it in after the plug was removed. I'll keep an eye on it for leaks, but this picture is after an hour and a half of it being installed, and no leaks. I should have probably put a washer or two on it to keep it from bottoming out, but I didn't even think about that.
Still gotta wire it up, but I'll see about that next week probably. So maybe I'll take it back out and put a couple of washers on it then.
Is the test port temperature similar to pan temperature?
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