Trailered home a 1989 F350 dump truck that looks great on the outside, but the 7.3 IDI is something else

[asmith]

I enjoy the long winding threads with lots of detours and and side quests as long as we eventually get to where we are going. That is what makes life interesting and brings the builds to life when we get to see all the other stuff involved along the way!

That is a beautiful property. I would be out there as much as possible too.
That parts truck is sweet. Almost a shame to make it a parts truck and not build it up too!

 

[crazydane]

Appreciate the complements!

Got the front and rear driveshafts out and plan to drop the transfer case next. So before I start removing heavy components, I wanted to capture the angle of the panhard bar as well as the front steering linkage.

Panhard bar is at a pretty steep angle. Don't I want it to be closer to level? Something like this:

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I know they make drop panhard bar brackets, but I read you don't want too much drop or it will add a lot of stress to the frame cross brace. They also make adjustable length panhard bars, but would that be sufficient? Seems to me that without the panhard bar being level, going over bumps is going to shift the axle side to side a bit?

Similar story with the front steering linkage:

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I would think I'd at least want a drop pitman arm to prevent bump steer? Both the cab & chassis frame and this one have what appear to be straight pitman arms. I'll measure to see if the one on the donor truck is longer. My understanding is it needs to be in order to get full turning ability with Dana 60 axle?

My welder buddy came out yesterday and looked things over. He thought it would be pretty straight forward to replace the cab floor boards, inner and outer rockers and rear cab corners. He mostly works on exotic race car restorations, and flies on site a lot for various restoration jobs. Front cab mounts look pretty solid, but maybe it would make sense to do those as well, which would essentially replace all the bottom metal on the cab.

So a kit like this perhaps?

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We also discussed how to best cut off the bumper from the donor truck without damaging the front of the frame, and how to fabricate proper brackets to weld into the bumper so that it can be bolted onto the cab & chassis frame without welding. And finally, how to add some reinforcement to support the mounting the Warn M15000 winch.

Making slow but steady progress!

 

[IDIBOBS]

Every track bar I’ve ever installed was at the same angle as the steering drag link. 1/2 the time on leaf spring trucks we just remove the track bar completely.

 

[crazydane]

Ok cool, I won't worry too much about those angles then.

Got the transfer case off:

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Speedo gear and worm gear both look good unlike my original:

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Get the radiator removed:

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I'll get it all cleaned up and pressure test it. But I think its in good shape. Its from Champion Cooling, which I believe carry a lifetime warranty.

Took a closer look the turbo:

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Appears to be a Garrett M43, which is guess was stock on the 93/94 Turbos?

 

[ironworker40]

Does that transfer case have the PTO provision?

 

[crazydane]

It does not. I'm going electric/hydraulic.

 

[ironworker40]

I suspected that, usually only the chassis cab trucks had the Transfer case with the PTO provision. Would be nice not to have to go electric.

 

[KansasIDI]

My understanding of the PTO transfer cases is that there were two types

1356 PTO, standard and only available in 4WD cab and chassis trucks with an E4OD. Notably, aluminum front half of case rather than magnesium, 1.25” wide drive chain
89-95

BW4407 PTO, offered in 4WD cab and chassis trucks regardless of transmission type, standard with the E4OD. Full aluminum construction, 1.5” wide drive chain
96-97

 

[KansasIDI]

BW4407 non PTO transfer cases were optionally available in the F250s of 96-97, and standard in all F350s

1356 in all 89-95 F150-F350

1345 in all 82-87

NP208 in F150 and light F250 80-82
1345 in heavy F250 and the very few 4WD F350s from that era.

87-89 is where things get muddy. I can’t see any rhyme or reason to what trucks got what transfer cases. As a result, there are various driveshaft lengths for those trucks, so it’s worth checking what you have.

1356 have a slip type rear yoke and are longer

1345 have a fixed type rear yoke and are shorter

 

[Nero]

Which is better in regards to reliability? Does one have beefier parts over the other?

 

[onetonjohn]

The BW4407 is a beast. Can't see that breaking. Only thing I would be worried about is the case around the bolts that hold it on (it's heavy). Part's can be hard to get (had trouble finding rear flange), but the transfer cases from a wrecking yard are pretty cheap - probably cause they don't break. 4407 has thicker chain, and 6 gear planetary. I put 4407 in my 86 (project little foot), behind a ZF-5. Will pick up a spare at some point.

 

[KansasIDI]

Which is better in regards to reliability? Does one have beefier parts over the other?

The BW4407 is strongest by its design.

All Borg Warner cases are equally reliable

The pre 85 1345 cases from one ton trucks supposedly had even beefier internals, but are very rare. Even rarer than a PTO BW4407.

Post 85 1345s and all 1356 cases are supposedly equal in terms of strength and reliability, save for the rear yoke design. Fixed yoke tends to be more ‘reliable’ in terms of having less failure points. But, U joints supposedly last longer with a slip yoke.

 

[KansasIDI]

My 94 F350 cab and chassis (E4OD, which, by the way, I am currently in the process of rebuilding and beefing up) had a 1356 PTO transfer case in it. I have a resealed 4407 PTO that will go back in.

 

[crazydane]

Interesting discussion on transfer cases & PTO provisioning. That electric over hydraulic power unit is surprisingly affordable @$370 with a 10 quart steel reservoir (a bit larger than the 8.25 quart reservoir on my current PTO setup). Bed rise time might be a bit slower vs. PTO, but I think overall the pros outweigh the cons.

I compared the rear driveshafts I have:

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That crew cab one will not work as is on the cab & chassis frame I don't think. I'm not even sure the slip yoke driveshaft carrier bearing will be in the right location, but maybe? Think my best option might be to just get a new driveshaft meant to for Cab & Chassis 161" wheelbase 4x4?

Got everything removed from the engine to where its almost ready to be pulled:

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I was going to drop it from below, but that turbo exhaust mount makes me think it would not clear the firewall if I tried.

Motor mount bolts are out, exhaust is removed (except the downpipe and turbo section), but I have not been able to get that 3rd starter bolt yet. Seems much harder to get to compared to a non-turbo engine.

 

[crazydane]

Finally had some time to get back to the donor truck. Got the 3rd starter bolt out along with all 6 bell housing bolts. Went to pull the engine, but that big *** bumper sticks out too far to get the engine hoist centered above the engine, so I had to cut it off:

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Was then able to raise the engine enough for the engine bolts to clear the mounts, but not high enough for the oil pan to clear the engine cradle. I think that perhaps the flange the turbo mounts to has to come off first?

This guy:

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Downpipe is also still in there as I wasn't able to pull it out from below. Maybe if I remove the above piece, I can twist the downpipe out?