tightening the turning radius

[broncobilly_69]

I notice that when I come up on the stops at full turn I still have about 3" before my tire would hit the leaf spring. Is there any reason why I can't grind a little off of the bolts that come out of the steering knuckle so the tires can turn sharper? Will allowing the tire to turn to far damage the steering box or anything like that?

 

[TLBREWER]

I notice that when I come up on the stops at full turn I still have about 3" before my tire would hit the leaf spring. Is there any reason why I can't grind a little off of the bolts that come out of the steering knuckle so the tires can turn sharper? Will allowing the tire to turn to far damage the steering box or anything like that?

I believe binding the front U-joints to be your limiting factor. I could just about do two circles with my '92 2WD CC compared to my '91 SC 4X4's. Takes about 2 city blocks to turn one of those around. Forget pulling into a parking spot at the mall...

Tom

 

[broncobilly_69]

I think the U-joints should be able to go quite a bit tighter than that. 1/2 4X4s turn much sharper than ours. Dodge had the same huge turning radius when they used leaf springs up front, and then it tightened up when they went to coils. Same as the newer Fords (turning radius improved 18.5% when they went to coils). I always heard hitting the leaf springs was the limiting factor. I know some of the Early Bronco guys will use an F250 4X4 steering box and put the guts out a 4X2 in it. I'll check with them as to why they do this

 

[Mr_Roboto]

The older trucks had adjustable stops (my 77 High Boy does). There was a tapped hole with a bolt and a locknut to adjust the stops. The newer trucks just have cast stops to save money.

My bet is Ford made the stops long enough so that there was no way to hit, even if someone ran wider tires etc. Personally I would cut part of the stop off, and drill and tap it to insert a bolt so that it can be adjustable.

 

[subway]

i would think the u-joints should be ok. they are rated to turn up to 15 dagrees on a drive shaft and that is full time, not a couple of turns at full lock once in a while. just make sure you have room if you hit a bump at full lock that with the suspension travel or flex dousent take anything out. i agree with the drilling and taping, its what my other trucks have and you can tweak it if you have any problems.

 

[TLBREWER]

The older trucks had adjustable stops (my 77 High Boy does). There was a tapped hole with a bolt and a locknut to adjust the stops. The newer trucks just have cast stops to save money.

My bet is Ford made the stops long enough so that there was no way to hit, even if someone ran wider tires etc. Personally I would cut part of the stop off, and drill and tap it to insert a bolt so that it can be adjustable.

Adjustable stops? I may have to try that modification.

Tom