tierod and suspension expert?:)

hjalbert

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I am going to be replacing the entire tie rod/draglink assembly on my truck./ I am assuming I will need new Adjustment sleeves , passengers tierod end(outer) , and the draglink(inner, this part attaches to the pitman arm, and the drivers side tierod) and the drivers side outer and inner tierod. I have a crew cab 2wd, And I am finding that the parts for a crew cab are more expensive, and also, less available. I wondered if it was possibleto use regualr cab parts since I was replacing everything, and since the pitman arm is the same regardless of the cab, I thought this would work. The difference I can find is the size thread used on the crew is 1 inch, and on the standard cab is 22mm......AnyOne an expert at suspension?
 

yARIC008

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Hm.. well i'm not an expert, but i've replaced all my tierods and such. Basically you need to replace everything. When i did mine i didn't buy new adjustment sleeves and they eneded up being really nasty and the threads got really nasty, so i had to end up buying new ones. They were cheap but it was a pain to go get them right in the middle of the project. May as well just buy everything then use it all and if you don't use it all go return it later.

Um.. i would think you should probably use the stuff made for your truck. I'd imagine you could get away with using other components for another truck as you noted, but ford must have had some reason for changing it. And i bet you don't want to be driving down the road and find out what that reason was :eek:

Steering on a vehicle is a very crucial thing and i just wouldn't mess with it, unless of course you really know what you're doing and are willing to have your wheels fling you off the road and wreck your truck. -cuss
 

Agnem

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Where are you pricing your parts?
 

82fordtruck

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I got mine at the ford dealer. These were cheaper than the parts houses for suspension parts. I got the whole kit for $400.
 

hjalbert

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Today I bought essentially everything needed to replace the entire tie rod set up. it cost 150 total, that includes passenger outer, and inner, the sleeve, drivers inner and outer and the sleeve. If for some reason I do not feel comfortable when I lay all the new (standard cab) stuff out next to the old stuff, I am going to swap it out and just have the truck set on the jackstands until the crew cab parts can get here. I physically compared the parts of the expensive brand to the cheap brand, exactly the same, So I got the cheapo parts. I ened up buying from advanceauto parts. Should I replace anything else while I am at it? (so far I am doing the radius bushings and the tierods.) (1985 f-350 1 ton crew 2wd.)
 

sle2115

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My response to your tds post, same goes here:

No expert, have done my fair share of work on them, but I have two comments. If it is different, it is that way for a purpose, maybe a slightly different bend or something. The last thing any production plant wants to do is change parts and have to track which is which, so I say it was done for a purpose. Second, if you were to have a wreck and things were investigated, modifying the steering is not something I would want to have to explain.

And I will add:
Laying them side by side may not tell the difference. There could be wall thickness differences, materials may be different etc.
 
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hjalbert

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I agree about the liability issue. But I can promise that not fixing it is more of one.
 

f-two-fiddy

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What year is your truck?
My 85 has the 1" stuff and my 93 has the 22 MM stuff. The 1 " stuff is for 8600+ GVW and the 22mm is for newer models (91+ I believe) w/a little lower GVW.

I wouldn't put any faith in just laying parts side by side. It's what you can't see that makes a difference in ball joints/tie rods.
I've had good luck with the top of the line Napa Tie Rod Ends. They last 3-4 years, while the cheapies only last 1-2.
Are you planning on doing King Pins?
Again, what year is your truck?
 

sle2115

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hjalbert said:
I agree about the liability issue. But I can promise that not fixing it is more of one.

I would rather be defending myself for them being worn out that defending myself for "altering" them. I didn't suggest not fixing them, I just suggested that you pony up and buy the "right" parts. In the end it is your decision, but if you don't want to hear the answer, don't ask the question. I think you will see by the other posts that I am not alone in my thinking.
 
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