The diary of my journey to the darkside.........

Clydesdale

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The Centurion? It may get 20 different motor combo's, but it will never get sold. Wife has said so...

I knew going into this the IDI wasn't going to be the end all cure all diesel for me, but it would be a great temp fix so I could afford to drive the thing...
 

Clydesdale

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The Centurion? It may get 20 different motor combo's, but it will never get sold. Wife has said so...

I knew going into this the IDI wasn't going to be the end all cure all diesel for me, but it would be a great temp fix so I could afford to drive the thing...
 

Clydesdale

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So I have this PTO winch with a effed drive unit...

Been dwelling on the idea of finding an electric motor to power the thing, mount the motor back up in the frame, wire the switch to wherever, and then run a shaft from the end of the motor to the u joint coupling on the winch.

The PTO winch is a Janette Electric MFG model SF 352 (?).. 60:1 reduction, so at 1800 rpm drive its 30 rpm winch speed, calls for 1800 rpm.....

Help?
 

Clydesdale

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If I were gonna tow some serious weight here to southern Cali and back...

I shift now, if I take it to the governor at:
granny: 14
1st 29
2nd 54
3rd 96

I catch each of the gears at 1750, shifting at 3250, and my speeds are congrous..

14 mph @ 3250 in granny
15 mph @1750 in first
29 mph @ 3250 in first
29 mph @ 1750 in second
54 mph @ 3250 in 2nd
52 mph @ 1750 in 3rd...

Should I run with that so I have semi relaxed cruising?

Or should I be realistic, and realize that this load is going to pre empt me from (10k bumper pull trailer) from relaxed cruising and drop to a 265/70/17.. which then does this to my gearing...

@3250 rpm
g: 12
1: 25
2: 46
3: 82

gear change, 3250 to 1750...

g~1 12/13
1~2 25/25
2~3 46/44


It should be functional with the 37's.... but the bulk of my towing will be in Cali.. and there is that pesky 55 mandate for ANYTHING with a trailer...

55 with the 265's is 2181 which is what 65 or so is with the 37's...

I want to say from memory, the torque band on this motor is 1400-2200, after 2200, I plateau and then drop a little closer to 3k.
 

seawalkersee

It needs a turbo...
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So, when you were having the starting problem, how long did you have to have to crank it before it started? Were there anyomre symptoms, like leaks or anything? I have to crank the heck out of mine prior to it hitting.

SWS
 

Clydesdale

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So I have had this thing running as an IDI since Oct. Haven't ever gone more than 50 miles in it at a sitting. Hell, I have never had more than 10-11 gallons of dismal in the tank.

Little brother in law moved back to Nampa from Cambridge, and needed two dead rides hauled. he farmed out the RX-7, and then had a need for the Pathfinder.

Why not? Father in laws IDI consumes oil at a rate of 12 mpq (miles per quart), so Clyde won the Nomination.

Alignment is screwed, front Nitto's are bald as hell.... borrowed a trailer, and gave it all we had.

220 miles later... I have learned:


Oh, I think I averaged 13. with plenty of idle time, 4 low spinning wheel time, etc. etc. etc. betcha that number would have been 15 (ad maybe it is now, started with 1/4 tank, put 20 gallons in, it flirted with "F", and is on the high side of 3/8 now) w/o all the 4 low bs, and excessive idle time. Half ass glanced at the odo on the iPhone, after fueling, and it read 113, now reads 338.

A: I passionately hate BW1356 t-cases, lost the one in Hidalgo miles away from home, loaded, kids blah blah blah; lost the one in Clyde, 100 miles from home, loaded borried trailer, blah blah...

B: My ulitmate gearing theorems will work with more hp/tq. I think a turbo on the ol 6.9 and it wuld do the job I want done, but still going to the I-6 Brazillian. IF I could hit 65 (2k rpm or so) I could hold 65, loaded.. if I hit the hill below 60, I didn't have a snowballs chance in hell

C: DO NOT RUN THE TIMING ADVANCE (electrical connector) 24/7 as a timing adavance for more power. Bad idear. Specially with no e-fan, and cardboard in front of the raditor.... 6.9's don't like 250 degree's... seems to run fine though after the fact though....

D: t-cases suck to change in 20 degree weather at night with 10-30 mph winds, don't recommend trying it

E: I do an alright job with motor swapping, axle swapping, blah blah blah. He handled his first work trip with aplomb, minus the driver induced overheating incident, and the t-case lunching it.
 

Clydesdale

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So I have had this thing running as an IDI since Oct. Haven't ever gone more than 50 miles in it at a sitting. Hell, I have never had more than 10-11 gallons of dismal in the tank.

Little brother in law moved back to Nampa from Cambridge, and needed two dead rides hauled. he farmed out the RX-7, and then had a need for the Pathfinder.

Why not? Father in laws IDI consumes oil at a rate of 12 mpq (miles per quart), so Clyde won the Nomination.

Alignment is screwed, front Nitto's are bald as hell.... borrowed a trailer, and gave it all we had.

220 miles later... I have learned:


Oh, I think I averaged 13. with plenty of idle time, 4 low spinning wheel time, etc. etc. etc. betcha that number would have been 15 (ad maybe it is now, started with 1/4 tank, put 20 gallons in, it flirted with "F", and is on the high side of 3/8 now) w/o all the 4 low bs, and excessive idle time. Half ass glanced at the odo on the iPhone, after fueling, and it read 113, now reads 338.

A: I passionately hate BW1356 t-cases, lost the one in Hidalgo miles away from home, loaded, kids blah blah blah; lost the one in Clyde, 100 miles from home, loaded borried trailer, blah blah...

B: My ulitmate gearing theorems will work with more hp/tq. I think a turbo on the ol 6.9 and it wuld do the job I want done, but still going to the I-6 Brazillian. IF I could hit 65 (2k rpm or so) I could hold 65, loaded.. if I hit the hill below 60, I didn't have a snowballs chance in hell

C: DO NOT RUN THE TIMING ADVANCE (electrical connector) 24/7 as a timing adavance for more power. Bad idear. Specially with no e-fan, and cardboard in front of the raditor.... 6.9's don't like 250 degree's... seems to run fine though after the fact though....

D: t-cases suck to change in 20 degree weather at night with 10-30 mph winds, don't recommend trying it

E: I do an alright job with motor swapping, axle swapping, blah blah blah. He handled his first work trip with aplomb, minus the driver induced overheating incident, and the t-case lunching it.
 

nevrenufhp

torque ******
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I like B better.
6 cyl
6.6 litres.
Mark of the beast, pulls like a beast, yet looks like an innocent little hunk of iron.
 

biggin92

Yeeeee Haaawwww
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so i know you used a superduty front but what did you use for the rear, what adapters did you use and where did you get them? i have a buddy with the same wheels for a superduty he is trying to sell me and i'm trying to figure out how to make them work on my 94 , i thought a bout knocking out my current studs and redrilling the superduty pattern on all my hubs but i'm not sure what to do , i'm thinking about buying adapters. btw the truck looks awesome man !!!
 

Worstenemy453

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so i know you used a superduty front but what did you use for the rear, what adapters did you use and where did you get them? i have a buddy with the same wheels for a superduty he is trying to sell me and i'm trying to figure out how to make them work on my 94 , i thought a bout knocking out my current studs and redrilling the superduty pattern on all my hubs but i'm not sure what to do , i'm thinking about buying adapters. btw the truck looks awesome man !!!

Which super duty wheels. If you use adaptors then your back spacing will be off definitely with some of the SD wheels. Google wheel adaptors, you need a 8x6.5" to 8x170mm, plenty of people make them.
 

biggin92

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thats what i'm worried about is my back spacing and how far out the wheels will sit , i don't want it to look goofy and i have found some wheel adapters on ebay like 85.00 a pair i just wanted his opinion on how far his rear tires poke out, and the wheels im look ing at are just like his 20" wheels
 

Worstenemy453

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Just measure with a measuring tape and you should be able to figure it out easily. I would get the thinnest adapters that would still work, maybe a 1" if they have them. I looked a while ago.

They shouldnt stick out too far, fender flares should easily fix it. Im not familiar with the 20"s but i have a set of 18"s that were on a 06.
 

Clydesdale

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Completely missed this. Ezaccesory, $140 shipped, went with 1.5", go with two, had to trim ug nuts. Although, the 1.5" aligned the truck perfect. with 13.50's, I stick out a fuzz. My flares more than cover. In fact, if I go to an 11" wide tire, I am ditching the flares.
 

Clydesdale

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My favorite part, second set of holes lines up with my NP435... Hubba Hubba!

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Notice bell housing length is same as a normal Bell? the 40.2" measurement stops at the 6" mark in this pic.

Sixstates (google) sells an IH disc, 13" 10 spline 1.125 shaft diam for $68... making my NP435 work yet again.

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Bosch.... MW, but tunable...

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Guy wants $400, gonna try to strong arm that smaller, sold the 6.9 tonight for $600, paid $300 minus crusher fess from chassis it came from for $120.. so.. my $200 motor netted me $400 profit, bearing in mind, I sold the 460 it replaced for $500... so, I did okay.:thumbsup:
 
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