tach

[seawalkersee]

Dakota digital sells a device that will take the signal from your OEM
tach sender, and massage it into the equivalent of a coil signal from
a V-8 Gasoline engine. The part # is DSL-1 if I recall correctly. Part
# DSL-2 includes DSL-1, but also adds a sending unit, in case you
don't have or want to use an OEM one. The sending unit needs to
mounted so that the pickup is really, really, *really* close to your
flywheel teeth (but not touching). Something in the range of a
millimeter.

I have been using DSL-2 in my 6.2 Chevy for 6 months or so. Works
great. I drive an aftermarket tach that is fashioned to look like an OEM
tach with the device. The sending unit nut is welded to a hole in the
metal flywheel cover.

Bob

I realize this is over a year old, but I was wondering how the dakota setup is working. Pics of your setup would be good too. Are you running a diesel tach or a gasser tach in a diesel?

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Dakota digital sells a device that will take the signal from your OEM
tach sender, and massage it into the equivalent of a coil signal from
a V-8 Gasoline engine. The part # is DSL-1 if I recall correctly. Part
# DSL-2 includes DSL-1, but also adds a sending unit, in case you
don't have or want to use an OEM one. The sending unit needs to
mounted so that the pickup is really, really, *really* close to your
flywheel teeth (but not touching). Something in the range of a
millimeter.

I have been using DSL-2 in my 6.2 Chevy for 6 months or so. Works
great. I drive an aftermarket tach that is fashioned to look like an OEM
tach with the device. The sending unit nut is welded to a hole in the
metal flywheel cover.

Bob

I realize this is over a year old, but I was wondering how the dakota setup is working. Pics of your setup would be good too. Are you running a diesel tach or a gasser tach in a diesel?

SWS

 

[bob_442]

I now have two Chevy Trucks with the DSL-2 setup, both using identical tachs
meant for a V-8 Gasoline Engine. One is a 6.2, the other is a 6.5. I am mostly
happy with how well they work. Both of them have the pickup mounted in a
hole in the torque convertor cover, which has one (of the two) 1" nuts welded
to it.

The only negative I have to report relates to when I had to have major
transmission work done (the transmission, a TH-400 with an NP-205 bolted to
it) had to be removed. After the shop bolted everything back up, due to
a tiny difference in where the torque convertor ended up, the pickup collided
with the flywheel (the sound was not pleasant). The pickup survived though,
and all was well after minor adjustment. In my case, the transmission servicing
involved replacing the case, so you can see how the pickup could have moved
a millimeter or so towards the flywheel.

If I had to do it again tomorrow with a third truck, I would try the DSL-1 solution,
and use a signal from the alternator as the source. I don't think I need the kind
of accuracy gains I get from getting the signal off the flywheel, and I prefer the
neater wiring solution. It's also a whole lot easier to set up (no removing the
convertor cover, drilling and welding, etc.). I would use the alternator, knowing
that I could always switch back to the flywheel pickup if I needed to.

I do have a third truck with a 5.9 Cummins (in a Chevy), and in that case the
alternator does drive a tach (of a different brand). In this case (I think) the
tach is meant for a diesel as I don't see any external device like the DSL-1 to
change the pulse rate. I'm happy with what I see there.

 

[ScubaMedic]

The tach in my '94 F-350 won't go over 1k rpm. I have cleaned the pick up and when that didn't work I got a new one. That still didn't work.

Is the only other option to change the cluster? Does that change the odometer as well? Is there a way to repair the tach in my current housing?

 

[seawalkersee]

The tach its self can be replaced in the cluster. That is probably the concern, but don't rule out the pick-up yet.

SWS

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

The tach in my '94 F-350 won't go over 1k rpm. I have cleaned the pick up and when that didn't work I got a new one. That still didn't work.

Is the only other option to change the cluster? Does that change the odometer as well? Is there a way to repair the tach in my current housing?

I had to replace the cluster in my 94. A local shop got me a rebuilt one with the odometer reset to the truck mileage. I think it was $300

 

[smolkin]

I have an OEM tach for a bricknose cluster if anyone needs it. Bought it a year ago, new, still in the box, never been used or tampered with.

 

[travelinman31]

Interested in your tach!!! Private message me a number I can get a hold of you on or I'll send you mine if you want.