SUCCESS!....One 6.9 bolted in.

BigRigTech

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In the morning, as early as you want:D.....I went like a mad **** today by myself and I got a lot done:sly....I had it cranking over on the starter to test the cables and stuff, rolls over nice and quick.....What's left to make smoke - install the exhaust, GP wiring, FSS/FI/TA wiring, WTS light and I need a bracket from the 93 we junked for the throttle cable - the bracket on the 6.9 is different as the engine was removed from a 87 so there is no square hole for the cable to pass through and clip in. I used my mighty vac setup to pull fuel to the lift pump before I put the hose on it so it shouldn't be that hard to get started. I used a 3/0 Freightshaker ground cable to ground the engine to the frame - had it sitting around. I'm going to weld the lug to the crossmember for max juice flow. Lots of securing and covering cables and etc to be done but hopefully it will make smoke tommorow.-Showtits:D

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BigRigTech

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Oh and one more thing - Goofy lived up to his name, when I tried to install the fan blade that we got from the junkyard last weekend, he had installed it backwards on the fan clutch so it was hitting the crank pulley before I could even start the threads.:dunnocookoo:D:rotflmao
 

RustyBolts

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Do you know if the idi manifolds can be flipped upside down, or right to left?
Clearance in the engine bay of a truck is irrelevant, I just want to know if it can be done.
 

GenLightening

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Do you know if the idi manifolds can be flipped upside down, or right to left?
Clearance in the engine bay of a truck is irrelevant, I just want to know if it can be done.

No, not really. The driverside can't be flipped or swapped, the oil cooler is in the way. The pass. side can be flipped or swapped. Not much to be gained, may as well make your own headers.
 

BigRigTech

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We have smoke.:D....I had it running tonight for about 15 seconds or as long as I could stand it in the garage with the door closed after I gave it a little sniff.:rotflmao....The wife could tell I was itching to get out in the garage so she gave me the green light.:sly.....I got the GP's working, in my rush to get it in I forgot to check for burned out GP's but my buddy said it started fine for him so hopefully I won't find any bad ones. It was a little rough but until I get all the air out of the fuel system I won't get too excited about that....Hopefully the injectors will be ok, sitting around for 8 months isn't good for old injectors so I guess it's wait and see in that respect. I also have a fair bit of gear rollover in the trans too with the SMF with the clutch pedal up but until the engine is smooth I won't get too excited about that.....Funny thing is, the 5spd in the 91 has no noise at all...none....It too has an SMF and the same style pressure plate. The F350 has a PTO so I wonder if that will add some noise with the SMF??? :dunno Goofy is coming over tommorow morning so if we can get it started again we can take it outside to work the air out and let it warm up.;Sweet...Still work to do but atleast it will move under it's own power.....hopefully.:rotflmao
 

RLDSL

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I use 3/0 on diesel cars. You'd be amazed at what a difference it makes in how fast the starter spins.

You can get zero corrosion fittings with crimps, you don't need solder . Been doing it for decades. Just work some conductive grease like NoAlox into the cable end strands, crimp it and seal with heat shrink. It will outlast a set of factory cables
 

BigRigTech

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I prefer solder, with that you know your connection is solid for good. I made a good guess on my cable needs, I have about a 16" piece left....LOL.....It's a nice sunny day here this morning, perfect IDI test weather, once Goofy get's here we can take it outside and warm it up to see what the verdict is on the engine, trans gear noise and etc. We have to run some wires for the oil pressure and temp gauge first to view the vital signs.:D I'm sure there is lots of air in the system to be bled, I put some Howes in the fuel to lube everything up, I might dump some ATF in there too....Hopefully I can get away with the injectors that are in it so I can put my money into the deck next otherwise the dump deck cradle will have to wait.:rolleyes:
 

BigRigTech

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It runs and drives good....slowly starting to smooth out. It needs return line o-rings - leaking at #1 on the pass side and sucking air when you shut it off. We also found a rusted off GP - never in a million years did I think it would come out but it did much to Goofy and my dis-belief...I will post a pic of it later.
 

typ4

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Big rig give me your address and I will ship you some vitons. I can tape then in an envelope.

Or if you want a whole kit, 30 plus 12 priority shipping. Let me know.

I will be gone all week, I can ready the ship today and you can mail a check or whatever. the orings only will be gratis.
 

BigRigTech

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How fast is priority mail? Goofy offered me the kit he got from you so I would buy the same to replace his....I don't have paypal so I would have to mail a cheque.
 

THECACKLER

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I use 3/0 on diesel cars. You'd be amazed at what a difference it makes in how fast the starter spins.

You can get zero corrosion fittings with crimps, you don't need solder . Been doing it for decades. Just work some conductive grease like NoAlox into the cable end strands, crimp it and seal with heat shrink. It will outlast a set of factory cables

Me to. I buy the copper lugs and post terminals from NAPA or whoever sells Noble products and crimp the lugs on to the cables. I used to try to solder them but that's for the birds. It burns the insulation and makes for a stiff end as the solder wicks up the wire. A few years ago I took a big old center punch and rounded the end to a ball point and used it to crimp the copper lugs on. One good whack to hold it and a second to keep it there forever. I'll never do it another way. I now have a couple of different "crimper punches" sized for different gauges. I use 2/0 for all but the Starter cable and 3/0 for that. My next Right Battery to Starter cable is going to be 4/0. Mr. Ohm said Less Resistance = More Amperage. On Star Trek the Borg say Resistance is futile.
 

GOOSE

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I've done the center punch method in a pinch, use Visegrips to cradle the sides and keep them from blowing out. It actually looks half decent and holds very well. Noal-ox or di electric grease and heat shrink are what brings the install up to top shelf status.

I have a complete cable crimp tool setup now-a-days if anyone local wants to make custom wires, you can PM me if needed.
 
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