Stock Brake Pedal behavior

jrollf

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The RABS can be a real pain to bleed sometimes and may lead to a soft pedal. For some reason my 93 is very temperamental when it comes time to bleed the brake system, I usually have to do the whole system a few times to get all the air out.

1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
XLT
7.3 Factory IDIT w/Banks Sidewinder
5spd Manual
 

Trex

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Good writeup Tim McKay, I enjoyed the writeup and searching you have shared, keep us informed on any updates, i to have the sinking pedal on my truck. I replaced all brake lines and hose's and set back brakes up and bleed the system 2+ times, they are alot better than what i had but i would like to do the hydro- boost setup
 

Tim McKay

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Jrollf: I didnt have too much trouble bleeding the system, but then again I have done a lot of it over the years, just not on this truck. The pedal is good and hard, suggesting the air is out.... before the sink starts. We will bleed it again after he drives it a week or so, as I have this theory that very small bubbles can still be present after bleeding, and they will eventually migrate to a high spot and combine into a larger bubble. Whenever I have done this on my other old cars, I get the best peddle possible.
One other (maybe stupid) trick I employ is to tap on the wheel cylinder ( or ABS unit in this case) with a brass hammer before I open the bleeder screw, until after I close it. This can help dislodge any bubbles that may adhere to the sides of the wheel cylinder chamber. I dont know if this does anything, but it makes me feel better. ;)
I always get the best peddle with the old 2 person bleed: pump the brakes up, open the bleeder screw, close it before the peddle is at the bottom, allow the peddle to rise slowly to replenish the MC. I have a pressure bleeder, but I never use it any more. I always achieve a better peddle the old fashion way.

Trex: It is my belief you will never get a “non sinking peddle” with the stock setup. I am pretty meticulous on how I do things, so I dont believe I missed anything.
To achieve it, I think you need to delete the ABS unit or remove the return spring behind the reservoir piston. Of course the Hydro Boost would be the end all solution. I’m just not willing to do that adaptation. He doesnt pull anything with the truck, so its not needed.
I do have Hydro Boost on 2001 7.3, with 4 wheel disk.... man what a beautiful consistent feeling system that is!
 

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