Sterling 10.25 Hub Seal?

[CDX825]

Working on doing brakes on a sterling 10.25 and I noticed that the hub seal appears to be separated. The metal ring on the outside of the seal on the rear of the hub has separated from the rest of the seal.

Got on rock auto and started looking at the seals and it looks like they have two different styles? I remember guys mentioned using a scotseal. They also list the factory motorcraft that looks exactly like the one on the hub. What is the best way to go?

 

[Cubey]

Full floater? I got one for my F250 from O'Reilly 4 years ago.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...tive-truck-1987-ford-f-250?q=Wheel+seal&pos=1

If you prefer a name brand one: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...a/5327/automotive-truck-1987-ford-f-250?pos=8

 

[TNBrett]

SKF 34384

SKF 34384 Rear Wheel Seal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IX2BCO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Rockauto or Amazon. It’s the Scotseal Plus XL. I replaced mine with some cheaper ones first, and they both started leaking within a couple thousand miles. So far so good with these, plus they install by hand.


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[franklin2]

Working on doing brakes on a sterling 10.25 and I noticed that the hub seal appears to be separated. The metal ring on the outside of the seal on the rear of the hub has separated from the rest of the seal.

Got on rock auto and started looking at the seals and it looks like they have two different styles? I remember guys mentioned using a scotseal. They also list the factory motorcraft that looks exactly like the one on the hub. What is the best way to go?

If it has separated, then someone before you has already used a scotseal type of seal. That's the way they work.

The original seal was pressed into the hub, and the rubber ID of the seal ran against the smooth surface of the rearend housing. On the repair type, it has two pieces. The outer OD is pressed into the hub like the factory seal. The inner ID of the two piece scotseal is actually sealed to the former smooth area the factory seal ran on with rtv. The rotating part of the seal is actually made inside the scotseal. Thus the reason it came apart in two pieces.

 

[cozinsky]

I've had good luck with National 370047A.

 

[franklin2]

Here's the seal I use. It's the same number as above, except it is a Timken seal. You can see in the picture that it comes with a special installation tool. That is why it looks solid in the middle. They just put the install tool up against it when they took the picture.

https://www.amazon.com/Timken-370047A-Oil-Bath-Seal/dp/B001542MN8

 

[CDX825]

Ordered the SKF ones from rock auto. Hopefully they work out. Anyone know the torque spec for the hub nut?

 

[TNBrett]

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55-65 ft-lb and back off 8 clicks.

Axle shaft bolts are 60-80 ft-lb


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[ifrythings]

Before putting the new seals in make sure the axle vent tube and fitting are not plugged or your new seals will leak.

 

[franklin2]

Ordered the SKF ones from rock auto. Hopefully they work out. Anyone know the torque spec for the hub nut?

That does not look like the nifty 2 piece seal. Hopefully it will work, just make sure you get that piece that is stuck on there off, and make sure the surface that is left is clean and smooth.

 

[TNBrett]

That does not look like the nifty 2 piece seal. Hopefully it will work, just make sure you get that piece that is stuck on there off, and make sure the surface that is left is clean and smooth.

The SKF 34384 is a two piece seal. It is a scotseal plus XL which is designed to be installed by hand without a tool. It is rubber on both the OD and the ID. It’s designed for a more foolproof installation. It’s pretty much impossible to install it crooked which is probably the most common problem with the two piece seals. Just coat the OD of the seal with gear oil, and push it into the hub, wait 5 minutes then coat the ID with gear oil and install the hub.

The SKF 34387 is the regular scotseal, and it’s meant to be installed with a special driver that keeps it square and at the right depth.

I first used a WJB brand WS370047A. It appeared to be a copy of the National 370047A which is what was on my truck when I got it. Those are both two piece seals as well.


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[franklin2]

The SKF 34384 is a two piece seal. It is a scotseal plus XL which is designed to be installed by hand without a tool. It is rubber on both the OD and the ID. It’s designed for a more foolproof installation. It’s pretty much impossible to install it crooked which is probably the most common problem with the two piece seals. Just coat the OD of the seal with gear oil, and push it into the hub, wait 5 minutes then coat the ID with gear oil and install the hub.

The SKF 34387 is the regular scotseal, and it’s meant to be installed with a special driver that keeps it square and at the right depth.

I first used a WJB brand WS370047A. It appeared to be a copy of the National 370047A which is what was on my truck when I got it. Those are both two piece seals as well.


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Your right, rockauto has those seals down near the bottom of the list.