Sterling 10.25 axle seal question

[ADV]

I am changing the wheel seal on my 1993 f350 I just got. I have the hub off and got the old seal out I go to press the new one in thinking I would be using a block of wood and a hammer to tap it in but all I had to do was just lightly press it in with my hand that just did not seam right. I put the hub on torqued the lock nut down to 55 ft/lb and backed it off 5 clicks I think this was right? Now when I spin the hub the seal stay stationary it don't move with the hub? Even before I put the hub on the truck I could move the seal around in the hub.


Do I have a bad seal that is to small?

 

[Diesel_brad]

That seal better fit in the hub tighter than that. You need to DRIVE a scotseal in just like any other seal

 

[Optikalillushun]

What seal did u get, can u take a picture? I had to drive mine in with the provided install tool.

 

[ADV]

I will post a picture of the seal tomorrow. The parking brake adjuster arm was messed up and rubbing on the hub long enough to make a grove in the hub so maybe the hub is messed up? I have an extra axle out of a 88 f250 I will pull the hub off of and see how the seal fits.

Am I setting the lock nut right?

 

[02x72]

When I replaced mine all it needed was a few light taps from the hammer to set in. put some liquid gasket around the mating surface and it hasn't given me a problem in a year since I did it.

 

[Diesel_brad]

You tightened the nut right, But that seal is probably leaking like a sieve right now

 

[ADV]

I did not get a picture but its a SKF brand. Good thing I done need the truck right now and have time to get this problem figured out.

 

[RLDSL]

There are two of those scot seals. One type requires a tool to install and seats against the wheel side like it's welded in, and the other is a hand press fit. Part of the seal is supposed to remain basically locked to the axle shaft and the seal rotates internally. they are odd critters but they work nicely.

 

[88F350idi]

thats right.... i have used both in the past. both have worked equally well for me. i agree it seems weird to press in a seal by hand but mine worked fine

 

[franklin2]

This is thread is a few days old, but I thought I would throw my two cents in. Some of the guys in this thread I believe are assuming you have the good repair type seal. But you may have the regular seal that the factory used, which looks like a regular seal. You can still get these seals, a friend of mine bought one and used it, and it leaked also.

What you need is the repair type seal. I believe I bought mine from Advance Auto. I am not sure if Autozone carries it. It was made by Timken. One way to know if you are getting this seal is the cost. About a year ago it was approx $30.00. It does come with a special metal cup that is the installation tool.

You say the seal surface on the axle might have a groove. This does not matter with the repair type seal, the instructions tell you to put silicone sealant on this area. This seal is a complex affair that gives you a piece that seals to the axle housing with silicone, and it has a brand new seal surface made into it that a outer seal runs against. You basically install it as one piece, but it's a couple pieces put together. It works great and is worth the money.

 

[ADV]

as far as I can tell its just the old seal one side is mostly steel and is stamped air side. I still need to take a better look at it after I put it in and it did not seam right i started running new brake lines and other stuff my truck needs.

 

[Agnem]

Upgrade your hub components with the Ford kit, and you won't need to worry about special seals.....

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[ADV]

Where would I get a kit like that?

 

[trackspeeder]

Where would I get a kit like that?

Ford dealer.

 

[franklin2]

Upgrade your hub components with the Ford kit, and you won't need to worry about special seals.....

You must be registered for see images

If he has a groove on the surface where the seal runs, I don't think it's ever going to seal completely with a regular seal.