So what did you do with your truck today?

IDIBRONCO

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pretty sure it's a C6?
If there's not a cancel button for the overdrive on the dash, it's a C6. There also should be a VRV on the side of the injector pump for a C6. I think the OD cancel button should be in your picture if it's a E4OD, but I don't remember which side of the steering wheel it's on.
 

hacked89

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Hey @hacked89 are you in the wrong thread? ;)

Today I got the transfer case oil pump parts, so I put the pump together on the mainshaft, then assembled everything in the front half of the case that is still bolted to the ZF5. That was easier said than done, because the usual oil pump mod (welding a 1.25" piece of 5/16" rod to the arm) came out a little too tall, so I kept getting out, grinding a bit off, getting back under, etc. Finally got it right!

Then I carefully cleaned both case halves with acetone, applied just the right amount of Ultra Black RTV, and mated them with no sliding around. (It's also fun to get that shift spring to stay in the right place while trying to hit the case dowels spot-on)... but at least I remembered all the internal pieces like the magnet! I snugged the bolts but plan to torque them tomorrow after the RTV cures. Repeat with the tailshaft housing (new oil seal), then the driveshaft goes back in.

I couldn't find anyone to solder, braze or weld Mg alloy, so I will repeat the process of cleaning, applying Permatex Aviation sealant to the plug and really small hairline crack, and cross my fingers ;)
No, my tech article is locked and I wanted to give people a heads up because when you google certain terms my thread pops up. Also I think it’s important to continually update and re-verify your work and be open enough to know when to refresh it if you have better information. Looking back on that thread and my engine math books, I believe I used a formula that incorporates the stage 1 injectors function, and it may be causing a theoretical higher requirement of the 66 GPH.

Is most of the non numbers still correct 3 years later? Yes
I still run the GSL392 and it runs exactly as planned in the thread.

As I’m starting to work on the mechanical lift pump I was talking to someone today that I think a perspective shift of just focusing on the theoretics of the IP and not bringing in theory of the injectors into may give us more accurate numbers.

The other option which I think can be good is I’ll re edit my original call out to snicklas to see if we can unlock the thread so that I can post an “update” in the near future. Like I mentioned there’s a a lot of good data in that thread. But I think I can increase precision. The high level tone in the responses as well is that just air on the side of flowing alot more fuel than needed.
 
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hacked89

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@snicklas
Could we allow replies on this thread? It’s been three years of vetting and I would like to add an update that I think can increase precision
Updated language to say this
 

Nero

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If there's not a cancel button for the overdrive on the dash, it's a C6. There also should be a VRV on the side of the injector pump for a C6. I think the OD cancel button should be in your picture if it's a E4OD, but I don't remember which side of the steering wheel it's on.
Right side, goes next to the wait to start light.
 

XOLATEM

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The E4OD showed up in 1989 and I would figure that if the truck was built from 9/88-on then it could have had either because Ford would have probably wanted to use up old stock but also would have wanted to use as many E4OD's as possible to raise the fleet MPG and and lower the emission averages.

I passed up a nice one-owner 1988 RCLB 460 automatic because it did not have OD. I reget that now...it was a Beaut.
 

DrCharles

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Today I torqued the t-case bolts and filled it. Went for a ride, works in hi/lo range and 2wd, no leaks.

But there's no 4wd (Lever in 4HI, I can spin the front driveshaft with a finger). :***:

I know exactly what's wrong... I didn't engage the internal shift mechanism properly with the 4WD shift collar. Now I get to do nearly the ENTIRE job over again (except for rebuilding the oil pump), and clean off all my new properly sealed RTV too. Craptastic. :cry:
 

Jesus Freak

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Today I torqued the t-case bolts and filled it. Went for a ride, works in hi/lo range and 2wd, no leaks.

But there's no 4wd (Lever in 4HI, I can spin the front driveshaft with a finger). :***:

I know exactly what's wrong... I didn't engage the internal shift mechanism properly with the 4WD shift collar. Now I get to do nearly the ENTIRE job over again (except for rebuilding the oil pump), and clean off all my new properly sealed RTV too. Craptastic. :cry:
I'm all about the doing it twice, three times sometimes, because one day you'll have to do it again and THEN you'll get it right..... maybe.
 

DrCharles

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I tore it down again (much faster because I know what Torx bits, what extensions, etc. are needed). Good thing I did. The new oil pump feels like it's seized up (which wadded up my new bracket with the rod I welded on the end). Basically I'm back at the beginning. I even primed the oil pump before putting it on :(

Meanwhile, the collar won't engage the chain for 4WD when the lever is moved to that position, and I'm not sure why.That stuff only goes together one way, mostly... time to study the parts book. I was sure I put it back exactly the way it came apart. But maybe not!
 

DrCharles

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From the parts diagram it looks like I put the shift collar on backwards... that would explain why it was miles away from engaging (4wd) when the shifter linkage is clearly in that position.

So I'm actually lucky that I had to take it apart again to find the shifter problem, otherwise I would not have known that the oil pump was trashed until all the bearings wore out (or seized) from lack of lubrication! But as Cool Hand Luke said, "I wish you wouldn't be so good to me, cap'n". :rolleyes:
 

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