So what did you do with your truck today?

Selahdoor

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Couple things.

One of the braces that holds the skirt/side of the bed, broke.

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I believe it happened when the tire blew out. You can see in the pic that a bunch of the steel cords from the tire are wrapped around it.

That brace was bent back, behind the tire. And was rubbing the inside of the tire. In the inset portion, I put a big yellow circle on the tire to show where that brace was located behind the tire. It was bent all the way back there and was rubbing. The small yellow circle is where it belongs. The yellow lines in the larger picture show the area that was being rubbed on the inside of the tire.

I bent that brace back to where it belongs, (after removing the steel cables.), and bolted it in place. Problem solved.

What gets me is that discount tire, (In everett washington), replaced that tire. Right after it blew out. When their tech took the old tire off, that brace had to have literally almost slapped him in the face. Yet he left it there. When it was obvious that it was going to rub against the inside of the new tire. He did nothing to fix the problem. And worse, didn't mention it to me.

If this brake line hadn't gone out, I might not have known about it until it actually rubbed a hole in the tire.

~~~

Replaced that hard brake line on the back axle to the passenger side. Works, doesn't leak. (Next I'll do the front. With brand new bearings, brake shoes, calipers, soft lines, and possibly rotors.)

Here's the thing. Ever since all the brakes were replaced, (At wagley creek in sultan washington.), the truck has driven like the bearings were totally shot, or like the brakes were dragging.

Took more go pedal than I thought it should, to get it going. And on the highway, take your foot off the pedal, and it slowed down exactly as if the brakes were slightly applied.

Since I replaced that line, no problem. It rolls a lot easier. It coasts when you let off the pedal. (Very slightly still a problem, but I think the problem is in the front now.) It even takes less go pedal to keep it going at highway speeds.

I think that line had rusted so much that a flake or flakes inside the line were keeping the pressure from bleeding back away from the brake cylinder on that side, when I let go of the brake pedal.

One of these days I'll take the rear drums off both sides and inspect them. I certainly didn't expect this to be the case with brand new brakes, and given the fact that they had actually inspected them twice again, at my insistence that they were dragging...
 

Selahdoor

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Yeah I have some silicone grease with PTFE that was recommended by another member here who used to maintain a fleet of these. I actually bought a tub of it for this project and have been using it on other stuff so I'd better do this while I still have some LOL
Do you have a link to a good example of that?
 

Selahdoor

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Question for the masses... Do you have a preferred grease for the front bearings?
 

chillman88

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chillman88

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Question for the masses... Do you have a preferred grease for the front bearings?

You just made me look up a Facebook post from last year LOL

Apparently @typ4 uses "Hydrotex MTP Ultra"

I don't know where to find it, seems to be a Pacific Northwest thing. I know he said someone in Portland stocks it.

I'd use it if I could track it down!

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TNBrett

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They used really big rivits to hold these in place. You can just drill them out. I could not find ones as big as Ford used the day I did the job. So used the biggest ones I could find. (O'Rielly's or Ace Hardware.) They were a little smaller, so I put a washer on the back of the rivet before I pulled them. Worked good!
Several years ago I bought a 1/4”riveter for work. At the time the cheapest one I could find was about $120. I just looked on Amazon, and it looks like you can now find them for $25 or less. 1/4” steel pop rivets are pretty sturdy, and being able to secure it without access from behind is helpful lots of times. I had to swap everything from one door onto another from a junkyard on an E450 at work a while back. I swear there must have been a dozen 1/4” rivets in all.
 

TNBrett

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Question for the masses... Do you have a preferred grease for the front bearings?
Royal Purple Ultra Performance Grease. It’s my favorite grease for anything that deserves good grease. I use it in all wheel bearings, even my boat trailer. I have some equipment at work that it has virtually eliminated bearing failures by switching to it.
 

Big Bart

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I have used Sta-Lube high temp brake grease over the years on many different vehicles with great results.


Also use their boat trailer grease on my snowmobile trailer bearings.

I have been very happy with the results, never had any issues with their grease.
 
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chillman88

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I have used Sta-Lube high temp brake grease over the years on many different vehicles with great results.


Also use their boat trailer grease on my snow mobile trailer bearings.

I have been very happy with the results, never had any issues with their grease.

I see it's listed as an aluminum complex grease which is great for water washout resistance. I've been using a grease from Schaeffer's for years specifically because it's an aluminum complex synthetic grease and it seems to hold up better in tie rods and the like.
 

1mouse3

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My grease gun has this since is what the store had that was synthetic and in a plastic tube, cardboard tubes clog the gun if not used often. I went for the synthetic for the sole reason that my king pins have poly parts and would think dino grease would degrade them quick.

green snot

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The_Josh_Bear

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Schaeffer's 221 FTW!

Extreme pressure w/moly, very high washout resistance, water proof, sticky, ultra-synthetic, and a great general purpose grease IMHO. Since using this grease in everything with a zerk and wheel bearings I've never had a failure, about 10 years.
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chillman88

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Schaeffer's 221 FTW!

Extreme pressure w/moly, very high washout resistance, water proof, sticky, ultra-synthetic, and a great general purpose grease IMHO. Since using this grease in everything with a zerk and wheel bearings I've never had a failure, about 10 years.
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Yeah there's one of their high moly formulas you're not supposed to use with roller bearings because it makes them just slide instead of rolling! I don't remember which one though.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Yeah there's one of their high moly formulas you're not supposed to use with roller bearings because it makes them just slide instead of rolling! I don't remember which one though.
That's likely, but the 221 NGLI#2 is rated for roller bearings and wheel bearings, etc. It's LB(chassis lube, highest rating), GC(bearing grease, highest rating) rated. And for colder climates the 274 #2 would be better I reckon.
As a small story on the grease, my front bearings weren't in great shape when I bought this pickup 14 years ago.
I replaced the bearings with Timken's but I didn't know you could replace the races separately from the hub at the time and never changed them.
14 years and probably 150k later I've still never changed them because they don't get worse. And I have only taken them apart 5-6 times, I just re-grease them and send it. Bearings are doing well! I'm pretty surprised and satisfied with that little testimony.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I decided that it was time to buy my own A/C gauges and vacuum pump. Since I'm driving the truck that needs A/C work, I decided that yesterday's 104* didn't sound as nice as the 80's that we had today. I was going to get up early and drive to Harbor Freight (about two miles south of the closest Wal-Mart). Since I just HAD to stay up and wait for my phone to quit charging last night, and that was after midnight, the early morning turned into this afternoon. I got there and they had the gauge set on hand, but they didn't have the vacuum pump for $90. They did have the bigger one for (about) $145 (I wonder why that was?). I was assured that they would have another one on the shelf on Friday, but I decided that the $7 to have it shipped to me was WAY less than I would spend driving the about 145 miles to buy it in person. I ordered it online right after I got home. Then, to be sure that I had everything that I needed to do the new parts install/r134 conversion, I stopped by O'Reilly. The know-nothing, computer keyboard puncher behind the counter had no idea what I wanted when I asked for a r134 conversion kit. They only sell the parts individually so I don't recommend O'Reilly for your conversions! I bought an o-ring set, the conversion service ports, a bottle of PAG46 oil, and a bottle of UV dye. I also grabbed a UV dye detector kit since I was right there. After that, I picked up another overhead shop light to put up in my garage while I was in Wal-Mart. Only little things, but they do add up to big benefits. On the way home, I came up behind a pretty new looking Dodge Crew cab dually. His license plate read "IMAFROG". I guess his first or last name must have been Kermit? He was driving about 5 MPH slower thanI was so it didn't take me long to show him my "IDIPWRD" plate!
 

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1mouse3

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Well the dash had became a bit shacky, so bailing wire to the rescue.

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