Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by GOOSE, Oct 28, 2012.
That's different then.
so today i installed the CDD feed line correctly and it doesn't leak anymore. i would give it 4 out of 5 stars because the black aluminum fittings feel cheap for the price you pay for it and it doesn't come with instructions.
tomorrow i need to put thread paste on my brass fuel heater plug cause the thread tape isnt enough to seal it tight
Nice chris fabbing is fun. I see you're going to use 6" channel similar to what i did on the ponty with 4" channel. When I was a kid I used a 110v Flux core on everything. You can run some decent beads it takes practice like anything. We talked about welding and there's no way I can tell you with certainty what's strong or not via internet pics but I'd be cautious. You're a solid guy I would be standing on that winch plate that you welding and jumping up and down with your weight.
When I was 18 I welded my demolition derby car with 110v Flux core and the welds broke for my safety bars haha.
I would recommend getting into 220v SMAW (stick/arc). I stick everything that is thick enough that I can. I never worry about breaking welds with it.
I have a Lincoln 110v mig with gas for sheetmetal. And a Miller arc welder for everything else. You can duplicate that type of setup for not too much money.
IE: going with cheaper brands
Some people ask if some of my stick is Tig and I'm like thanks that's prob the best compliment you can give a SMAW bead.
I know you saw this pic from the other night but this is a quick stick weld when I was fabbing up the receiver for the ponty winch mount same thing you're doing now. This is zero prep or cleaning of the weld just brushed the slag off.
I'm not a welder by trade or anything either or even consider myself good. I started down the same road you are taking. My grandpa taught me on Fluxcore as a kid, he was a fitter in the navy yard and then I went to night school for SMAW for fun.
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Glad you got it sorted miles, haven’t had any issues with these kits before but I’ll be labeling each fitting to make it clear for future customers, appreciate the honest review! If the first kit I sent through usps shows up this week you’re welcome to hold onto it or give it to another IDIer!
That's an understatement
I actually have an old lincoln 220v stick welder at my parents. Problem is it needs ALL new cords and I don't have a clue when it comes to stick!
We've got 220 mig with gas at work, I'm probably going to do parts of it there, it's just a matter of warpage and being worried about heating it up to the point it doesn't want to bolt back up correctly after welding it off the truck. That channel in front I got carried away joining two pieces and now I'll have to chop the edges and straighten it out. But I think the weld turned out pretty decent in my opinion, especially for a novice with 110v flux core.
My biggest problem welding is I've never had steady hands.
I almost texted you the other day, then I looked at the clock and realized how late it was lol!
i put thread sealer on my brass fuel heater plug today, it sealed up and no longer leaks at higher RPM. time will tell how it holds up. hopefully my air intrusion problems are fixed now
I sold my camper shell. This week I’ll probably end up getting rid of my old toolbox and winch bumper as well. Kinda just cleaning stuff up that I don’t really need.
I did the timing on my truck last weekend, the CCLB Dually, 7.3 NA. I timed it in just the fashion I have warned people not to do. I have no timing meter, so I had to do the job by ear. I did, however, take before and after pictures.
The truck was smoking more at startup than I like, and continues until it is well-warmed up, usually after it's moving.
Here is a picture of the indicator marks on the IP before I started.
After I wiped away a bit of grime I was surprised to see that it was at virtually TDC, according to the factory marks which I have told people are not too accurate, are only ballpark settings.
Here is the second picture, those same marks showing somewhat advanced.
I've run the engine since adjusting the timing, but have not driven it more than around the block. It still smokes on startup. I'm not sure how quickly that stops. My buttometer tell me that there is slightly more power. That, of course, may be wishful thinking since buttometers are notoriously inaccurate. I'll leave the IP at this setting until I can get an actual meter on it. If I have to advance it even more I'll have to loosen the injector lines. I'm hoping not to have to do that.
Installed an adjustable voltage regulator set up at 14.2 volts at battery. Have brighter lights and more air from heater.
The past few days have been me running in circles trying to tie up losse ends.
my glowshift pillar gauges came in the mail today. i also ziptied a wreath to my grille too
You can text me anytime I'm always up haha
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Got new headlights installed, new headlight switch ( that's what broke ) changed a few burned out dash lights. Installed a headlight relay kit from lmc.
What a difference lenses make. Btw, the plugs on the back of the dash gauges were stuck to the circuit board, like glue! So didn't want to break everything and just twisted the cluster up and reached underneath to change light bulbs.
Got overheating issue fixed. Now I've got no overdrive. Two steps forward one step back, it's always something with this truck.
Sounds like pretty much every truck, ever.
Here is the key... Don't let yourself get to the subconscious conclusion that the truck is junk and not worth it. Just because of all the petty little fixes that are needed.
Guaranteed that if you spent a quarter of the cost of buying a new truck, and you fixed everything that is even questionable on this truck... You'll have a better truck than a new one.
The new one may have all the bells and whistles. It may be faster and/or more powerful. But it will cost you an arm and a leg if it so much as sneezes. And after a few months or a year, it WILL be 'down' just as often as this one is.
The old one will be more reliable. If SHTF, it will be much better because you can fix it yourself, unlike the 'everything computer controlled' new one. I have even made my own small parts for my trucks.
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