So what did you do with your truck today?

Cubey

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It was on Monday. but I drove the F250 ~165 miles round trip to buy this 1958 Parkhurst enclosed fiberglass trailer (both frame and box made by them). It was made for Nationwide Trailer Rental System and has their logo molded into the fiberglass, as well as Parkhurst's. I lacks trailer brakes sadly, and the axle doesn't have the plates to install them. I'd have to replace the axle to add them. Maybe some day?

It has a pretty sturdy frame, with a very light weight, all fiberglass box. The NA F250 could feel it back there when accelerating and braking but it wasn't too bad. I didn't notice it swaying at all, even with really old passenger vehicle tires on it (inflated to about 32psi by me) and being totally empty. It didn't seem to bounce a lot either. The truck couldn't really feel it when going straight down the freeway. Maybe the turbo motorhome won't feel it as much. It has nice big 15" rims with 6 lugs and big hubs. It should hold up nicely to cross country towing since that's what it was built for.

It's a pain to back due to being so light and small compared to the tow vehicle. I will probably put a cheap sway control on it because why not? That can help with backing to since it keeps it from turning as easily. Plus of course, it helps with sway. When I was pulling that old 28ft travel trailer behind my F250, I could tell a huge difference with vs without sway control.


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chillman88

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@Cubey That's pretty sweet!

You can buy the plates to install brakes on if you can get someone to weld them on. It would be a little work but might end up being cheaper than a whole axle.
 

Cubey

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@Cubey That's pretty sweet!

You can buy the plates to install brakes on if you can get someone to weld them on. It would be a little work but might end up being cheaper than a whole axle.

Buying the plates and paying several hours labor to have a trailer shop weld on would cost as much as a new axle, which I could install myself.

It has a drop axle btw. It needs that to avoid looking weird, being raised up too high vs the fenders. (The plate that the spring is U-bolted to is welded to the axle, in case you wonder). It's slightly low to the ground but not bad. It didn't scrape on the kind of steep hill at the end of my street. My RV always scrapes there (the generator tail pipe sticking past the rear bumper, I think)

A complete axle kit, brake hubs and all, runs about $450 online with free shipping:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Axles/Dexter-Axle/8327812-EB.html

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chillman88

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Buying the plates and paying several hours labor to have a trailer shop weld on would cost as much as a new axle, which I could install myself.

Truthfully I'm spoiled to have friends that weld so I don't really remember how high shop labor is, you make a valid point.

$450 isn't bad, I was quoted $800/ea for my trailer, that's why I still have the old axles. Not paying more than the trailer is worth just for new axles!
 

Cubey

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Truthfully I'm spoiled to have friends that weld so I don't really remember how high shop labor is, you make a valid point.

$450 isn't bad, I was quoted $800/ea for my trailer, that's why I still have the old axles. Not paying more than the trailer is worth just for new axles!

You generally expect to pay about $80-$100/hr, same as auto mechanics. Being that it needs to be very precise, you can't just trust any random Joe or Jane with a welder to do it right. A trailer shop who would need to do the job, since they probably know how to do it properly.
 

Selahdoor

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Oh hooey!

It's not rocket surgery.

Any good amateur welder can get it close enough without having to resort to digital calipers, lunar solstices, frog knees, and sine waves.

:D
 

Cubey

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Oh hooey!

It's not rocket surgery.

Any good amateur welder can get it close enough without having to resort to digital calipers, lunar solstices, frog knees, and sine waves.

:D

Measuring the trailer today, it might just need some welded on. The box isn't quite 5x8 (the interior is roughly 4.5 x 7.5) so the axle might a custom size for the trailer since the trailer itself was custom made for rental purposes. I suspect the size is that so tail lights of cars and trucks of that era (30s-50s) could be seen around the sides of the trailer in case the trailer lights failed.
 

Slicknik

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Body mount bushings and rear shocks, huge difference in ride quality, and stock spare tire carrier with spare tire back in place

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Selahdoor

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While I kind of agree with you, it's not about lunar eclipses and sine waves, sadly, it's about liability.
Ah. That's true. If you are a shop, you do have to be concerned with that.

Still, it's hard to screw up, if you pay attention. I'm not endorsing a sloppy job here. Just saying that pretty much anyone that can actually weld, could do it if they were paying attention.
 

Ky85

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New fan clutch, dropped off tools at Oreilly for the deposit. Noise is still there after engine warms up, noticed marks on the brackets like something slipped so after the weekend gonna do all new belts and tighten the pulley tension.

I can see the blade wobble, and the belt at the steering pump is loose

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IDIBRONCO

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Belts do stretch and loosen up after running for some time. Unless the bolts weren't tight enough, I doubt that anything slipped. It's probably just from where the bolts were at some time in the past. It sure doesn't hurt anything to double check though.
 

Laine D

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Spent 2 days trying to figure out my trailer brake controller and then realized that the breakaway thing on the trailer was unhooked. So that was a waist of time...LOL. Installed my Holley fuel pump last night and I’m heading off for the mountains today.

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