So what did you do with your truck today?

DrCharles

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Having a fuel system with an electric pump AND no air intrusion anywhere is great. The 7.3 starts faster than it ever has, and no more hesitation/surges, or stalling when air gets sucked in anywhere near 1/4 tank ;)

I filled up my new fuel tanks this afternoon... the rear one is leaking a lot, especially when the truck is pointed downhill or under braking. This is almost certainly from the locking ring for the pickup (the cheap improperly sized Taiwan O-ring, more specifically). So now I either have to pull the bed AGAIN (really not a bad job except it needs the backhoe to lift its 300 lbs) or lower the tank from underneath (which now has 130 lbs of diesel fuel in it)!

I'd rather pull the bed for access and not have diesel pouring in my face or down my arms, too.

Crap-tastic. :frustrate
 
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Jason1377

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Well I'll let these pictures tell the story, spent almost 6 hours broke down about 45 minutes from my house with my grandma this morning with a nice flat on my passenger rear which was filled n check a bout 30 minutes before I left her house. Any who spent $120 on new jack with stands socket n break away n ruined a socket wrench all over a tire n didn't n know I have a dually set up srry long post pics below.

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Needless to say new tires Tuesday had to use a spare that I picked up this past summer so far this weekend has costs me roughly $500
 

79jasper

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Tire looks like it was already shot anyways.
And you mean to tell me you didn't already have a jack/tire tools?

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DrCharles

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Pulled the bed, and spent the entire day trying to get the stupid lock ring/o-ring on the rear tank to seal (I started a separate thread). Each test required siphoning a 5 gal. bucket of diesel back into the tank, seeing a slow leak, siphoning it back out.
-cuss
Now waiting 24 hrs for the final attempt (resized O-ring augmented with red RTV) to cure before I put the diesel in for hopefully the last time!
 

chillman88

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Repacked passenger side wheel bearing. Whoever did it last did a crappy job and unfortunately I might know who. Shame if I'm right because I thought I could trust them.

Suffice to say it was way loose and there shouldn't be that much grease OUTSIDE the seal! Plus it doesn't sit well with me when there's old grease in there, even if it's just in the dust cap.


Messing around wiggling stuff I'm worried I might be doing ball joints before the rally. They're not noticably moving but I still think that's what my popping/clunking is...
 

DrCharles

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Put the bed back on the truck with four OEM bolts/nuts and plenty of anti-seize. Whoever torched out the middle ones did enough damage to the bed floor that it will need two patches before I can put bolts in, although I do have another pair.
Also changed the rear axle brake hose, and while under there replaced the four rounded-off transfer case skid plate bolts.
 

laserjock

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Then I found that the rear filler won't go on because there's a flimsy strut brace to the fender in exactly the wrong place. Guess I will do that tomorrow, along with putting in the two front bed bolts that I have. Four good used ones are on order from the auction place.

You can get that by loosening the clamp and pulling the tube out of the rubber section if you can get it apart. Been there done that.

In other news, I have been pretty happy with the Dorman SD bolt kit. Been off a couple times now. Nice not having to hold the nut underneath.

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laserjock

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Pulled the bed, and spent the entire day trying to get the stupid lock ring/o-ring on the rear tank to seal (I started a separate thread). Each test required siphoning a 5 gal. bucket of diesel back into the tank, seeing a slow leak, siphoning it back out.
-cuss
Now waiting 24 hrs for the final attempt (resized O-ring augmented with red RTV) to cure before I put the diesel in for hopefully the last time!


Huh. I’ve been fighting that same issue with my new rear tank. Gas there been a consensus on a fix? I’ll go dig up the other thread.
 

DrCharles

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I elected to stay with OEM shoulder bolts because the "Taptite" thread-cutting bolts are great going in, but can be REALLY difficult to remove!

See my other thread on "Tank lock ring troubles"... the Dorman lock ring is too thin so it doesn't compress the o-ring tightly; the "Platinum Pro" Taiwanese tank did not have the groove for the o-ring stamped properly, and the supplied o-ring was too large but I cut it down and superglued the ends together. A coat of Hylomar did the trick and is OK for continuous immersion in fuel :)
 

BrianX128

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Still have one injector that is leaking some up from the threads on the 6.9 but it's running perfect.

Was.

Then yesterday as I was driving I hit a bump and I thought the truck stuttered. Couple miles down the road it just shut off entirely engine wise like I turned the key off but I didn't. I floored it and a second later it just magically was running normal. It slammed back into life. It did it two more times real quick.

I got to my destination and noticed my fuel filter by the shraeder port was leaking. I think I tightened my fuel pressure gauge too tight and cracked it near the threads. I jb welded that area liberally tonight. I was gonna switch to the 7.3 style eventually anyways but hopefully I can bandaid the leak in the meantime.

I'm assuming my random shut off is wiring to my fss on the ip. It wasn't like a sucking for air stutter it was just off and then magically running normal again no smoke or anything..
 

chillman88

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Pulled the cap off last night, put the headache rack back on.

Drove down to my Grandmothers place for some mold remediation, hauled a bunch of stuff to the landfill.

Grandma's place is 100mi away. Oddly I got 10mpg there and 17.5mpg back, unloaded both ways.
 

Jason1377

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Tire looks like it was already shot anyways.
And you mean to tell me you didn't already have a jack/tire tools?

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Had none all my tools was stolen by crack head
 
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