I'm currently running a well insulated and heater cut offed system with strait camping propane. Blue orifice tube and all, new compressor, accumulator and well insulated, I've managed to pull what my cheapo thermometer said was 28f. That was on a 102 degree day. I realize that's actually too cold, so I've got some toying to do to get the mix right, but the point is, even strait propane can cool super well in our trucks with blue tube and good system
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What fan speed was that reading taken at?
You did alot of the right stuff, except for the fact that camping propane has Mercaptin in it and it is sulfur-based. Unless you used
double-capped PAG oil, the PAG will go out of it's way to draw moisture into the system and when that happens, the sulfur will react to moisture to form an acid.
That will shorten the lifespan of the system, especially the compressor which have five aluminum pistons moving in and out in an aluminum housing with five cylinders for the pistons. There are lots of aluminum for the acids to wreak havoc in the system.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but do some research and see for yourself. I'm not kidding about the Mercaptin... Which is
always found in camping propane...
Sorry about that, not trying to be an ******,would you have preferred I kept my mouth shut?
Also, the propane won't carry the oil mist around the system by itself, so that means that your compressor is dieing a slow death, because all of the oil is being collected at the accumulator with no way to hitch a ride back to the compressor.
So the Teflon starts melting and the black death will go into your condenser, then travel down the liquid line to the orifice valve where the screen of the orifice valve will trap the shreds of Teflon...
But the tar like substance (melted Teflon) with metal particles embedded in it, will flow past that, into the evaporator on down to the accumulator. The black death very rarely makes it's way back through the low pressure or suction line from the accumulator to the compressor.
I would, just for caution, install a good inline filter before the compressor to catch any tar residue left behind from the flush. If that stuff does make it back to the new compressor, the whole cycle will repeat itself all over again, but this time, not from lack of oil...
In black death, or compressor failure, not all cylinders start shredding, most of the time it's all coming from just one cylinder. This why oil recirculation
back from the accumulator is so very important.
One symptom of
early black death is where your A/C system puts out colder air at lower speeds as opposed to highway speeds. It's the clog at the orifice valve that's causing the system to do that. Or a much too small orifice valve, which you don't have, since you used the blue one, which I believe is .072"...
That being said, if you catch the black death in time, you can just to do a firewall forward replacement and be sure to flush good thoroughly the evaporator and it is always a good idea to use nitrogen instead of regular compressed air to flush out the flushing solvent.
Carry on, fellow experimenter... 
