Slow crank worse each time...

[Matt_INW]

For the last week or two the truck has started slower and slower. Now it barely turns over, I'm not sure it will turn over the next time I try to start it.

Short version, charging system, batteries, and starter seem fine. I did clean the battery terminals as they were corroded, after doing that no change, in fact the alternator light flickered a little (might be a lose connection like once before on the test lamp lead on the alternator though). While the trucks driving around etc there doesn't seem to be an undue drain on the system with the AC and fan on high etc and the idiot gauge for the battery is ok.

Long version, I've had the batteries tested the CCA (850 rated) looks fine on both (800 on one and 849 the other), and the load test came out fine the local shop said (no charge for the test yay).

Just now I had the starter checked at NAPA to see how many AMPS it draws, it starts at 270 and ramps down while running. They tested it 3 times. Then they tested a brand new one and its draw initial was 250 AMPS and ramps down. The 1st time they tested mine the light saying there was a problem barely flickered, but not the other 2 tries. I am going to take it to a battery and electric shop tomorrow as I'm told they can do more thorough testing. If I buy a starter and put it on, and it's not the problem I can't return it.

I'm going to see if I can test the resistance on the negative and positive cables now.

Any other thoughts?

 

[icanfixall]

Might try replacing the fender mounted solenoid. Sometimes they wear out and it will do what you are telling us is happening. Before replacing it try tapping it LIGHTLY with small hammer because breaking the phoeonic resin case makes you replace it. but it lets you see whats going on inside too>>> Well the damn cat stepped on the caps and I wont retype this. I'm really not screaming at anyone. Not a good typer either.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Check your ground connection on the engine for corrosion, it gets rusty and corroded. When the starter is mounted on the engine, it will pull 500 to 650 amps just to get the engine to start to turn over. If any of the battery cells are bad, it will not show up in a battery test, a hydrometer gravity test on each battery cell will tell, after a full charge and then let set for at least 3 hours before checking like that. Any parts store has a tester for a couple of bucks. If you have a bad battery cell, it will drag the good battery, a battery at 11 volts is considered discharged and needs charging.

 

[jwalterus]

are the cables original or have they been replaced?
if original I'd be checking them

 

[OLDBULL8]

A bad engine ground will not let the alternator charge like it should. After a start the alternator should be charging around 14.5 volts, then settle back to 13.5 volts. Check with a multimeter, digital or analog.

 

[riotwarrior]

Cables suspect

Starter 2nd

Bats 3rd

They cannot LOAD test the starter....as in loaded spinning your engine...a decent alt starter bqttery shop can

 

[Matt_INW]

Thanks, Batteries tested fine (though not a cell check but they did a load check, took batteries out of truck and to chop for that. Testing charging level at battery close to alternator was 14 volts, but they didn't check the one father away, hmmm. Hopefully the battery and electrical shop can properly test the starter tomorrow.

I ordered a new fender solenoid and a new positive battery cable, and will get them in the morning. The positive cable has always been an oddity since i bought the thing... the original one died and the original owner MADE a replacement by splicing 2 or three together. But no issues and I've had other things to spend $120 bucks on, till now haha. So it's time to replace that even if it's not the problem. Though I did check it's resistance and it seems to have 0.5-1.0 resistance, and if that's right that's probably the culprit. Will find out tomorrow!

 

[Matt_INW]

And here's the special positive cable on it. A splice on either side of the connector for the up close battery, including splicing in the tiny positive wire to it, and a splice a little to the right for the long piece that goes to the far off battery. I look forward to replacing it regardless after this fun.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[OLDBULL8]

Your attachment won't show up, you have to go into Advanced and use Manage Attachments.

 

[Matt_INW]

Man the attachment function is pain.

Fixed!

 

[OLDBULL8]

That is an abortion if I ever seen one. Battery cables on a diesel have to be just like new all the time, lots of amperage pulls thru them when starting. Your doing the right thing replacing them.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Man the attachment function is pain.

Fixed!

No it's not. Wait until you get 879 pic's, then you can hunt thru them, just drag a pic down and upload.

 

[Matt_INW]

ARGH!!! Long posting coming....

Took the starter to a shop the specializes in batteries and vehicle electrical systems. And they said to do a proper test the starter has to be on the vehicle, of course! But that's not my big peeve.

My big peeve is after getting things put back together, with the new positive cable, I find out the cable between the 2 batteries is too short. The new one is 5'1" long, maybe a bit less, the old one was 5'11". I didn't realize the problem until i was done, because he batteries weren't in the truck till the last step. I then went to NAPA, the measured another, it was 5'3" long, better but too short. I then went to Oreilly, 5' long. Awesome!

They only have 1 part number, it's not the wrong part, or so they all think. The length of cable between the starter and the battery is a bit long, so that's part of the problem, where they put the middle connector it seems. I'm not confident I'll get anywhere measuring a half dozen more cables. The dealer can't get it anymore, and if they could it would be $250.

It turns out the battery and electric shop makes cables. So I guess I'll put the old cable back on and have them make one, and diagnose the slow start. While the new cable is too short and i can't put things all back together, it's just barely long enough to connect. So, it does seem to turn over a bit better, though not as good as it should.

That said, there is one way I might be able to make this work. Unbolt the radiator, push it away from the front of the truck, slide the cable in, the bolt the radiator back in. But I'd rather not do that, it just seems wrong, it might rub/vibrate against things which I'd rather it didn't, and there's a bundled set of electrical lines and stuff where it would be put.

And here's the pictures... On the passenger side end I need an inch or two, though MIGHT be able to get away with less. On the drivers side I need 4.5 inches, to allow to cable to go around the front of the air intake as designed. As is now, I can't attached the air intake, and it prevents the hood from closing. And 1 or more pieces of metal are a bit sharp where the cable currently "crosses" to attached to the batteries.

How can this be, I can't be the only one with this issue in the country. I have the OEM air intake, and everything else is OEM up here.

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[BDCarrillo]

Maybe flip the driver side battery around so the positive lug is toward the radiator.

Looks like 62.5" is about right

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[79jasper]

^ What he said. It's backwards. I've never seen that. Lol

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