Slave cylinder travel

[Trevtron]

this look about right?

After the shop did my rear main and installed a Brute Force clutch kit I have to just about depress my clutch pedal to the floor, when I let off after going into gear I have about an 1” of pedal before it engages.

I used to be able to go into gear with the clutch pedal depressed about 3/4 the way down. Not sure if this is normal or not.

Clutch Linkage is tight and I have no flex or cracks in my firewall. Slave cylinder is new with about 5k miles on it. Master cylinder isn’t leaking.

This only started happening after I got my truck back from the shop a few days ago, here is a short video I made of the slave cylinder travel using a tape measure

Edit: clutch effort is smooth with positive return.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[Trevtron]

I’m going to have it bled first before I suspect anything mechanical

 

[no mufflers]

i think @subway might have the answer.

 

[Trevtron]

i think @subway might have the answer.

Thanks!

 

[no mufflers]

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/slave-cylinder-travel.80431/

this is the one he started.

 

[Runningaford]

It should be around a 1/2". I read a technical bulletin somewhere that said something like .42, to .47 was within range.

 

[Trevtron]

Ran by a couple shops and they just said it’s what ya got until everything settles and wears in some, and to keep on trucking. They also said it’s not abnormal with everything being brand new and that my slave seemed to be actuating just fine.

Just got home from Napa and bought an new LUK slave cylinder .
Just because I may end up throwing it in and seeing if it makes any improvements right off the bat or not.

 

[Runningaford]

I just re-read the OP, the slave cylinder travel in the video looks good. When I installed my new pre-bled kit(master, and slave), even with it being pre-bled, I guess compressing the slave over, and over.... I don't know, but what I do know, is the master was hardly engaging the slave cylinder at all. I was just about to remove it, when I decided to run the thing down a few blocks; our roads here suck, and it might as well be offroading; it worked the bubbles out I guess, because it works.

Aside from that, I found an easy, easy way to remove, and replace that slave cylinder; just take a ratchet strap hooked into the dimple of the arm coming from the transmission, then hook the other end of the strap to the cross member rearward of the transmission, then just ratchet it back until it's fully depressed. At that point, the slave cylinder is easy to install. I mention this, as I had that silly plastic keeper on the end of my slave cylinder, and it was still not held in enough to get it to slip into place. Just food for thought.

 

[Trevtron]

I just re-read the OP, the slave cylinder travel in the video looks good. When I installed my new pre-bled kit(master, and slave), even with it being pre-bled, I guess compressing the slave over, and over.... I don't know, but what I do know, is the master was hardly engaging the slave cylinder at all. I was just about to remove it, when I decided to run the thing down a few blocks; our roads here suck, and it might as well be offroading; it worked the bubbles out I guess, because it works.

Aside from that, I found an easy, easy way to remove, and replace that slave cylinder; just take a ratchet strap hooked into the dimple of the arm coming from the transmission, then hook the other end of the strap to the cross member rearward of the transmission, then just ratchet it back until it's fully depressed. At that point, the slave cylinder is easy to install. I mention this, as I had that silly plastic keeper on the end of my slave cylinder, and it was still not held in enough to get it to slip into place. Just food for thought.

Thanks for taking the time to respond, that’s a good trick you shared with with the strap. I’m going to accept that I have about 1” of pedal and see what happens over the next week.

Maybe it’s within the range of normal after a new clutch kit to have to push the clutch pedal almost down the floor. Lol, Hopefully that the sweet spot with the clutch pedal will improve some with mileage, it’s not a problem rolling down the road as much as parking lots and such.

 

[Trevtron]

....and I’ll move the seat forward one “click”, makes it less of a stretch!!
Ha ha

 

[Thewespaul]

I always like to replace the slave cylinder when doing a clutch, I know when I upgraded my clutch I had to move my seat to compensate for the change and it took some time to get used to it

 

[madpogue]

Aside from that, I found an easy, easy way to remove, and replace that slave cylinder; just take a ratchet strap hooked into the dimple of the arm coming from the transmission, then hook the other end of the strap to the cross member rearward of the transmission, then just ratchet it back until it's fully depressed. At that point, the slave cylinder is easy to install. I mention this, as I had that silly plastic keeper on the end of my slave cylinder, and it was still not held in enough to get it to slip into place. Just food for thought.

Good idea; strange that the keeper thing doesn't hold the rod back enough. One thing, though, if you use the ratchet-strap method -- set the PARKING BRAKE, and/or BLOCK the wheels.

 

[79jasper]

Hopefully that would be common sense. But... stuff happens. Lol

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[subway]

Something else to consider is a problem that I ran into when trying to bleed my system. After hours of fooling around I figured out the problem after taking a spare master cylinder apart. It bothered me I could not bleed my system and it would not push fluid even though it worked great a day ago when I took it apart. I also noticed when I took the line off the master it never leaked the fluid out the resurvuar sitting overnight.

Simply put I had to lift my pedal to get fresh fluid to flow through my master. If I did not lift my pedal it would not retract the internal piston enough to uncover the hole from the resurvuar. Once I figured this out I could bleed out my system in 5 min easily.

Try lifting your pedal to for a little and see if that allows more fluid in the line to lift the clutch release off the floor.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[madpogue]

Video indicates enough hydraulic travel. I think post #7 nails it, that the new clutch kit (most likely esp. the pressure plate fingers) just has to be worked enough. I've seen posts on other forums indicating low pedal engagement on a new clutch, and that it takes a while for "normal" ops to kick in.