Should I replace the oil pump???

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Im just trying to decide if I should replace the oil pump in my brown trucks engine while I have it out and torn down. I will not be doing a complete rebuild of this engine, the long block will be staying intact (praying there are no broken rings), but I will be pulling the pan just to have a peak and to reseal the oil pan. So I have been kicking around the idea of installing a new oil pump and pickup while Im in there... The items would be genuine IH service parts, Im not skimping on this project. But I just cant fathom doing a complete rebuild of an engine with less than 100k on it. But I feel like a new oil pump and pickup would be in some way cheap insurance in some form.
What do you guys think?

 

[k_williams1982]

I'd replace it if you have the motor already pulled just because it's easier to do it now than later. I know that the oil pumps are good for a long time in these motors, but it's easier to do with the motor removed. I had to change out a pump on my first one after I had installed the engine and it was a PITA to get my hand and a wrench between the block and pan to drop the pump and pickup tube.

 

[4play]

you said it.. cheap insurance. i would do it for sure. if engine is out it will get a pan seal main seals and oil pump for insurance. it cost a little now but think about what it could cost ya after engine install if you didnt do it.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Sean, If it's got less than 100k on it, I think you'd be ok. There's lots of em out there that have many more a mile on em than that.

Just my thoughts.

 

[hesutton]

I'd leave it alone. I did not replace mine when I did a complete rebuild on my IDI. These pumps are excellent and I've not heard of an oil pump failure.

Heath

 

[icanfixall]

I think a more important thing to do while its out and on a stand is checking the clearances on the rods and mains. A new oil pump wont help those if the clearances are way out of specs. Plasticgage is really reay to use and it will tell you how good or bad things are. Take a good look at the front and rear seals and for sure do the oil cooler. Will you be installing studs? If not when will the head gaskets get done. I know this is almost a complete tear down but really its another way to know whats going on....

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

^^^ You're right, but I was always told that once you remove a torqued main bolt they are junk, just like head bolts... Is this true or not? It that is in fact the case with these engines then that's the hold back from checking tolerances, those bolts are an easy $200-$300 that I wasnt expecting. But yes, I would like to check tolerances if it is possible. I will be installing new front and rear main seals, possibly wear sleeves if needed. I already have a brand new turbo only oil cooler barrel waiting to be installed into some spare 4 ring headers I have, that way I will have the updated cooler, and the more efficient flow of the larger turbo cooler barrel.

I just ordered my ARP head studs, so yep it'll be getting those too. I've never used ARP head studs before so this is going to be a learning experience. I will be using Fel Pro head gaskets, hopefully that wont be a mistake. The whole point of this is to freshen this engine to the point I hopefully wont have to touch it, minus regular servicing, for many years.

 

[typ4]

Check the end clearance and look for wear sscratches in the cover and housing but DO NOT change just cause, my new melling has less pressure that the old IH pump, which will be going back in if I have to remove the pan. More later if you need ,One of the sdogs is having a seizure, Later

 

[icanfixall]

Now that noise about torqued main bolts being junk after you remove them once is right up off the stable floor. I dought anybody here will tell you differantly too. About the ARP studs. I hope you have a spare block and at least one head. Those studs require being torqued down and loosened up 5 times to be ready to hold the proper torque. It gets really tireing to tighten them up and loosen them 5 times to 100 lbs but it must be done. I used a 36 inch breaker bar and after a while you will get the feeling of the proper torque. Thats 34 studs times 5 equals 170 times torqueing to 100 lbs but your young and strong... Be sure you use the ARP molly lube. Otherwise 30 wt oil requires a torque value of 130 lbs. Now doing that 170 times will kill even a young man easily let an old fart like me... You see the big differance in the amount of work these great studs need to set in and work properly. And on to other sides of this stud issue. We do have some members that just tightened them down and run them. Even with a turbo they are doing fine so for me I go that extra mile because I need realiblity out on the road and I did talk with two of the stud engineers when I had several studs gall up on me. They at ARP replaced them and told me they would "let me know what happened" after they inspected them. They never did call and neither did I. As some have stated... I have the worst of luck and things only happen to me.. Just glad to be of service to everyone else so they wont have the problems I have... The wife tells me its my charma... Bad charma out... Bad charme in.... She can just go too.......

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Picked me up a NOS Ford oil pump and a NOS Ford pickup tube today, total including shipping is $74. Dont think I could have passed that up.
Russ, do you mind explaining in detail how to check a used oil pump? By all means if my old pump is good I'll just keep using it. But I dont have the slightest clue about pulling all the gears and stuff out of an oil pump. Please tell me how.

 

[typ4]

Well you cant pull the drive gear unless you press it off, but a straightedge across the back, feeler gauge against the gear should be no more that 5 thou clearance. Any more will have low flow. Wear in the cover can be wet sanded out on a flat glass block. My new melling had over 10 and I got told by the rep that they cant check them all. They are blowing years of steller reputation with that statement alone.
I machined mine down and polished the cover, housing and gears to get 4 ot 5 thou.

 

[typ4]

Oh and that main bolt thing on these engines is BS. Maybe on the fourth or fifth teardown but not one. Besides if you have a clue at all you can tell when they are not pulling up to spec.

 

[sassyrel]

head bolts on our engines are NOT tty--can be reused many times---same for the rods and mains---in spite of anallity of some--and--unless youve run trash thru the oil pump--they push a LOT of oil volumne--no worrys at 100,000 mi-------there is no relief in the oil pump--thats in the oil filter housing

 

[icanfixall]

These oil pumps pass 18.2 gallons per minute at 3000 rpm. The water pumps push 70 gallons per minute at 3000 rpm. Where did you get that great price on the pickup tube and oil pump??? I could use another pickup tube for my next motor upgrade that is still being designed...