She Suxs-Pops-Blows & Goes....

icanfixall

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Well yesterday late I finally got power and fuel to my new again motor. So I'm up on the bumper and the key is on as I try to jump the solenoid.... All I get is a starter click. Try as I did it wouldn't turn over. So I bared over the motor and it turned fine so I go-a-looken for the whys.... I just knew I didn't connect something on the starter circut but what... Then I see it. My cables all have lugs soldiered on the ends and on the batteries I have marine connectors so its really easy to unhook the battery. No more pulling the clamps off the battery for me. What I forgot to hook up was the positive going down to the starter. No power... No starter turning. I connected that and bled the fuel system and it fired right up. Ran clean from the get go and smooth too. No noises either. My idle oil pressure is 55 lbs cold. I shimmed up the spring by 78 thousands. I don't have the radiator in yet so it has not really warmed up yet. But at least its running and nothing is growing out of the block or leaking oil. Its been 1 month short of a year since I burned up the first rebuild at 5200 miles when a freeze plug decided it didn't like living in the block. Something some of you need to remember.... When you loose all your coolant the senders are not "seeing" and coolant for a reading and you can drive for a short time before all hell breaks loose... My radiator has a low coolant sender in the top tank just so I can see whats possibley happening in the motor.......
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Something some of you need to remember.... When you loose all your coolant the senders are not "seeing" and coolant for a reading and you can drive for a short time before all hell breaks loose...

I brought this same point up for discussion on another site.

The lower down on the block the senders are, the less likely for them to get high and dry, where they can't read the heat, should the coolant level drop.


My radiator has a low coolant sender in the top tank just so I can see whats possibley happening in the motor.......

Please explain further, maybe with some pictures.
 

ttman4

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My idle oil pressure is 55 lbs cold. I shimmed up the spring by 78 thousands.

Something some of you need to remember.... When you loose all your coolant the senders are not "seeing" and coolant for a reading
:Thumbs Up :Thumbs Up Way to go Ican!!! Atta-boy! You deserve it for a fact!!;Sweet
& like I say, from following your saga this last year & all you been thru & the different Top-Notch precision detailed workmanship you've strived for & achieved, that thing should run so smooth & quiet you'll be able to slip up on the rest of us & be gone before we see or smell 'ya!!:D

Shimmed up 78thousands: IIRC, & I haven't looked, but hope I saved the directions. Sometime in last few mo, you or someone else posted how it's taken apart & shimmed. IIRC it factory pre-set & not usually accessible to shimming etc, but can be done. If someone still has that info. I'd like to get it again....I'll try to look see if I saved it or search for it.

Low coolant....you're exactly right! Kids fried couple of theirs thru yrs like that & learned lessons hard way when it cost them. And I've nearly done same thing myself!
Wifey fried one several yr ago....& with that look, 'ya know one I'm talking bout? The LOOK...she said "I didn't either get it hot!! I know! Cause it never showed hot....I smelled something, but it never got hot....made some kind of weird ratteling sound, but it never got hot!! Kept going slower & slower, but it never hot! Those people passing me & waving was rude! Slow as it got I thought this blankity-blank thing wasn't gonna go to where I finally stopped! But it was never hot! Bumper or grill's loose & makin some kind of cracklin, poppin noise, but it ain't hot! And I had to walk rest way home!!! But it was never hot cause I watched....so don't go blaming me....don't EVEEENNNN!!!"

Silly me!! Silly me! I should'a known all along it was never hot!! I don't remember exactly what I said, but I think it was something like "Yeah, probably that muffler bearing got to binding again....bound up & was makin all that shakin smelly, cracklin, poppin noise 'ya heard....bearings ain't what they used to be!!"
siggghhhh......
 

metrojd

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Congrats !!!

Congrats!!!
I am glad to see that things are starting to go together.:thumbsup:
Keep us posted and Keep up the good work.;Sweet
John
 

Dirtleg

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Thats great news. I am relatively new here but have gotten the gist of what happened. You must be very happy to be back at this point. Perseverance.;Sweet
 

icanfixall

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The how toos about shimming up the oil pump regulating spring goes like this. Ture, they are not supposed to be tampered with but.... Some of us have done it anyway. The regulateing valve is located in the rear oil cooler header. Its not the easy to get at bypass thats under the fiber wafer that you see whenever the filter is removed. You need to pull the header off the motor to access it. Then you see 4 areas that have been peened over to keep this valve in the aluminum header body. Be very careful grinding out these because there isn't much material and a mistake here will cost you a new header at around $260.00. What I have found is this. The spring rubs on the metal valve body and over time it wears almost in half the wire thickness from original. Thats on a hi milage motor so shimming those springs wont really do much because its lost some of its strength. So when its apart I used 2 stainless steel washers that really needs to be ground down on the outsides to fit into the valve. Once it all fits just put things back together and run with the big boys with higher oil pressure. Rus (Typ4) did this first but only got 4 extra lbs of oil pressure. On mine I was starting with a new spring so maybe thats why my idle pressure is better. I will post back when I have some run time on my motor for more results. I'm really curious what the hot idle and high rpm pressures will be. As a side note the powerstroke oil coolers oil regulating valves are differant. They are held in the header with a snap ring so just maybe they are replaceable or maybe they have some kits. I have one of these I bought years ago and really need to remove the spring and see if its compatable with ours. Gees... I think I have something more to do now....;Sweet
 

ttman4

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Thanks Ican. I'll get out my "other" spare oilcooler that needs resealing & have a look-see in next few weeks. It's the one I kept putting off fixing couple years ago. So it finally got DO-OR-Die so I finally pulled off & replaced that night from about 10Pm till 3AM....in butt deep snow, about -75deg below, 100plus winds, in near darkness.....the same one I screwed up gasket on & had to do it all over next night!!!
Second time round teaches cautiousness....& goes quicker.
But there is a way to get it out, & replacement back in without undoing motormount. At least on mine. Don't remember it all now, may have jacked some tension off some, but ditn;t mess with motormount.
 
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TLBREWER

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Ican

Congradulations finally! I know you've kept us updated with little bits of tech stuff throughout this rebuild. BUT, you know we'll be looking forward to a complete technical writeup with sources, specs, modifications, and pictures.:D Now that it's running, you can take all that spare time and write us a book.:rotflmao

Tom
 

riotwarrior

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Way to go Ican....hope that you get that rad in and then running for a nice drive....keep us informed!
 

zigg

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Well yesterday late I finally ......fired right up. Ran clean from the get go and smooth too. No noises either. But at least its running and nothing is growing out of the block or leaking oil. Its been 1 month short of a year since I burned up the first rebuild .......

Way to go Gary!!

Took me 2 years to get mine together, but it's sure a good feeling when you're buzzing down the road knowing you did it y'self.

Now you get to live with that "new engine anxiety" for a a while. It's only just now that I've been able to just "turn up the tunes" and drive without freaking out at every squeek or new noise....

:thumbsup: :cheers:
Zigg :)
 
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