Self oil burning

[1mouse3]

you have a $500 "rebuilt" short block, what else did you expect?!

Nothing less and nothing more, did get it down to $450 for having the pistons installed wrong.

 

[Booyah45828]

Chamfer goes toward the radius on the crank journal. You can see it pointing at with the red arrow here.

You must be registered for see images attach

If the rod would be flipped along with the piston, the square end on the right would now be on the left, and it would be clamped tight on the fillet of the crank journal.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

What is the orientation for the chamfer on the rods to be pointing?

It's been a while, but I believe that the flat spot on the small end of the rod faces toward the cam to get the right chamfer alignment.

 

[1mouse3]

Thinking about it some, will probably go with the bolts for now with 3 studs just need to know the lenght. There is 3 bolt holes that are hard to get to, one means pulling a head and the other two the hvac box. So these should be studs at a minimum for now so dont run into major complications and is not hard to swap to studs later down the road.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[1mouse3]

Well have opened up the can of worms, the chamfer is to the inside of the journals. The bearing are new, so there is that. I also see a new oil pump was installed as well, that cork gasket needs to go tho.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

On inspection of the cylinders, Im seeing high spots and pitting that I dont like. So think might have to rehone spots of thes cylender with a stone hone, looks like thay got a ball hone and called a day.

#2 has a small pit somewhat high in the bore

You must be registered for see images attach

#6 has a large spot with micro pitting center of bore, that black spot at the bottom is nothing.

You must be registered for see images attach

#7 has two ring with random high spot in the bore at the top, it dose not feel even with pitting, There is also that spot half way down as well that feels uneven.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[1mouse3]

Why do the pistons have carbon on them if it's rebuilt

There is no carbon build up on these piston, they have been fulley brushed. That is discoloration of the metal of the pistons.

 

[Booyah45828]

Well, at least they hung the rods on the pistons correctly. A simple flip and you're back in business.

I'll 2nd the cork gasket. Use a tube of the right stuff and forget about it. I don't think I've ever had a cork gasket not leak/weep.

Do you have a micrometer hone, or one of those 3 arm jobs? If the pitting is deep, I don't that I'd get too aggressive with trying to remove it, you might remove too much metal and create too much piston clearance.

 

[1mouse3]

Do you have a micrometer hone, or one of those 3 arm jobs? If the pitting is deep, I don't that I'd get too aggressive with trying to remove it, you might remove too much metal and create too much piston clearance.

I dont have a hone that I know where is, got someone that say they have a good hone so need to wait for show and tell to know what it is. Those micrometer hones look like they would do what I need done, not too woried about the pitting but what seems like a high spot associated with them. I would think high spots could cause ring seating issuse.

 

[1mouse3]

Well the 7.3 past me found in the yard is now gone with out any others to be found. So being out of options and there still a core status 7.3 on creaglist a few hours out that was almost heading to scrap, took this gamble to get heads and came with other parts that could be usefull. This has cost me $150 for the engine, $65 in fuel, $55 in oil and the dilemma of possible being short on a bill. So will be tearing this down tomorrow and seperating what I need from it, the rest is going strat to the scrap yard to try and recoupe some what I spent.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[1mouse3]

So have a set of head to use but still have to look them over, I am also going to hold on to the cam if I ever want a regrind.

You must be registered for see images attach

Dont know why but the also holding on to the lifters.

You must be registered for see images attach

This engine cam with a set of bb injectors and got a ip to go with this build.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Unsure if this controler would like 60g pulgs, so not sure if will use it.

You must be registered for see images attach

Then on to the hoard pile building up in the bed of my other truck, it look like Im close to being able to run this engine on the stand when done. All that I would be short to do so is a starter but Im not buy another.

You must be registered for see images attach

As for the rest, I have seperated the tin iron and aluminium for a run to the scrap yard. One those pistons had a build up of tan cake as if was a missfire or something, ignore the other discoloration since got water in it from sitting.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[1mouse3]

Well got sone nos head bolts in that I found on ebay for $45, so have all the bolts need just need to get 3 7in studs now. Still need to decide on a ring compressor and thinking will get a ARP 900-1100 at 4.110, there is not much choice in that size.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Booyah45828]

The controller won't like the plugs, but the relay and push button won't care

I sure love mine. Them and a racor fuel filter/water separator that doesn't leak like the pos wix filter it replaced. Now the bus starts in half a revolution.

 

[1mouse3]

Well for what I got back off the left overs, this core ended up costing $170. At least got some other usefull parts out it that somewhat ballence the scale.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[1mouse3]

I know the injectors in the 6.9 run without a miss but am finding that these bb ones are the good ones to have. So to insure Im not going to be play musical chairs with these injectors, think should test and clean them. I see can get a pop tester off ebay for around $90 and got 4 spare injectors with the short block to rob shims out of, not seeing a source of new ones. This is what Im finding for setting the pop pressure, anythig else I should know?

Why do you need a pic? You see all the parts when you take one apart.
Pop pressure= 1850 to 1900
You need a pop tester.
The SHIMS raise or lower the pop pressure. .001=40 PSI
Yes the spring weakens, add shims to up the pop pressure.
Carbon is usually the culprite on the nozzle and/or pintle.
No one seems to know where to get parts.
You need a good micrometer 0 to 1" or a digital caliper to measure shim thickness.
Search "icanfixall" break down of injectors.

 

[1mouse3]

I have started cleaning up the heads and this is what I have to work with. There is a minor cracks in the left 3 pre cups but none get close to the fire ring. The 2nd from the left is the only one with a rough spot in the fire ring but is not much.

You must be registered for see images attach

This one was easyer to clean and no visable crack in ether head. The 2 end cups have spider cracks starting with the right one having a crack getting close to the fire ring, 2nd from the left has a crack but is not much. There is a couple a blemishs in the the fire ring but is not much, so will hit these with the 2x4 post mentioned. Will get valve tool to see what the guild are like and replace the seal.

You must be registered for see images attach